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Long Range Hunting & Shooting
Bipod broke my stock!!! Ever seen this?
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<blockquote data-quote="pmh-usa" data-source="post: 1931223" data-attributes="member: 25707"><p>My original post owes Naja302 an apology: I should have read the entire dialog - I did not know that the manufacturer failed to warn about the use of bipods. I think that if he had not modified the stock, and it had broken, the manufacturer would probably have made it right. </p><p></p><p>As to the repair, if that was my stock, I would reattach the broken forend and let the method of the repair incorporate an appropriate foundation strong enough to support the use of the bipod. I won't go in to details here because there are alternate ways to accomplish the repair and everyone has their opinion regarding "how". I will say that the challenge is to do it with the least amount of weight gain as possible.</p><p></p><p>Not meaning to hijack this post and take off on a tangent, but another lesson-learned here is something that Muddyboots said, "I've sheared off bipod studs just from recoil with my 300WM when shooting off a concrete bench."</p><p></p><p>I've never heard of that happening before but when I visualize it, I wonder why I had not heard of that before. The similar but more common issue I have seen over and over, is that of sling-swivel studs digging holes in rests especially "bags" and other soft rests during repeated shooting. When I do a stock, I use Uncle Mike (or equivalent) studs which have a 10-32 thread; when I return the customer's stock, I always include 10-32 button-head 'filler' screws for the customer to insert in-place of the sling-swivel stud when bench shooting. When the stud is removed, the button-head protects the rim of the stock hole from chipping and keeps crap from getting in stud-bushing hole. The button-head generally can be screwed in almost "flush" or at least it doesn't protrude beyond the stock surface enough to cause issues with the rest; however, just in case, I also include short 10-32 headless set-screws that can be screwed in at or below the surface level. Sometimes when the customer wants stud-bushings for both bipod and sling-swivels, these can be used to fill the unused bushing hole. I have also run into 10-24 sling-swivel studs on both OEM and aftermarket stocks on occasion 90% of what I've seen is 10-32. If you can't find these in a good hardware store, you can find them on Ebay. </p><p></p><p>If you do have 10-24 studs and would like to convert to the more common 10-32, it's a fairly simple fix and doesn't really involve 'invasive surgery'. PM me and I'll tell you how. Hope this helps.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="pmh-usa, post: 1931223, member: 25707"] My original post owes Naja302 an apology: I should have read the entire dialog - I did not know that the manufacturer failed to warn about the use of bipods. I think that if he had not modified the stock, and it had broken, the manufacturer would probably have made it right. As to the repair, if that was my stock, I would reattach the broken forend and let the method of the repair incorporate an appropriate foundation strong enough to support the use of the bipod. I won't go in to details here because there are alternate ways to accomplish the repair and everyone has their opinion regarding "how". I will say that the challenge is to do it with the least amount of weight gain as possible. Not meaning to hijack this post and take off on a tangent, but another lesson-learned here is something that Muddyboots said, "I've sheared off bipod studs just from recoil with my 300WM when shooting off a concrete bench." I've never heard of that happening before but when I visualize it, I wonder why I had not heard of that before. The similar but more common issue I have seen over and over, is that of sling-swivel studs digging holes in rests especially "bags" and other soft rests during repeated shooting. When I do a stock, I use Uncle Mike (or equivalent) studs which have a 10-32 thread; when I return the customer's stock, I always include 10-32 button-head 'filler' screws for the customer to insert in-place of the sling-swivel stud when bench shooting. When the stud is removed, the button-head protects the rim of the stock hole from chipping and keeps crap from getting in stud-bushing hole. The button-head generally can be screwed in almost "flush" or at least it doesn't protrude beyond the stock surface enough to cause issues with the rest; however, just in case, I also include short 10-32 headless set-screws that can be screwed in at or below the surface level. Sometimes when the customer wants stud-bushings for both bipod and sling-swivels, these can be used to fill the unused bushing hole. I have also run into 10-24 sling-swivel studs on both OEM and aftermarket stocks on occasion 90% of what I've seen is 10-32. If you can't find these in a good hardware store, you can find them on Ebay. If you do have 10-24 studs and would like to convert to the more common 10-32, it's a fairly simple fix and doesn't really involve 'invasive surgery'. PM me and I'll tell you how. Hope this helps. [/QUOTE]
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Bipod broke my stock!!! Ever seen this?
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