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Bigger is better theory or truth?
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<blockquote data-quote="freddiej" data-source="post: 1735824" data-attributes="member: 26227"><p>I forgot my popcorn so I will weigh in on this one. I have had a variety of slugs go through my 30-30, 270 Win, 257 Rob., and my father's 30-06. for the muley and white tail we ended up shooting in Calif (Lassen county) were rather big, nothing truly massive but very respectable; we tried 180's in dad's '06, nothing special. they were able to be tracked. my 30-30 had 110 grain varminters from Sierra and Speer. at 300 yards deer never took a step after being hit. They might have hunched up and jumped but they always landed and keep going to the ground. next season I loaded 125 and 110 grain slugs in dad's old '06 and sighted it in at 125 yards, his median shot, and we got two deer that just sort of just got anchored to the spot they were shot. I also started taking neck shots only from about 150 yards away or nearer. body shots(vitals) were 150 and above. still the bucks just sort of died within 10 feet of the spot I shot them. later on when I got my 270 Win I tried out the same theory of light and fast with light construction. this seemed to be the trick for planting deer on the spot. these were all high neck shot. blowing the corroded artery and the spine out. instant stop. my 270 Win was far more accurate than my 30-30 so I was confident to take farther neck shots. shot placement outweighs weight, or diameter in my mind. but if you have to take vitals, heart and lung, shots for deer it is very simple. the slug has to be thinly skinned and will open up at the mere hint of a bone or heavy muscle tissue. on the subject of monoliths (Barnes, Hornady, cutting edge), the work better at short to medium ranges, except the one barnes slug (30-30), you put that in a longer range cartridge and you fling it to 600+ yards it will still stop a deer nearly on the spot you hit it. a 572 yard shot proved that to me and my dad when I accidentally (total brain dead mistake) loaded the 30-30 150 grain slug into dad's 30-06 cases instead of his 30-30 cases. </p><p>the shot was nearly perfectly disastrous, wind drifted the slug to a place it should not have been, the deer jumped just before impact, the deer got hit in the air, the slug opened up to over .750" and crushed it's way through the ribs and deflected through both the heart and one lung. the deer came down dead. </p><p></p><p>talking Elk, Bear, Hogs, Moose, and .. the construction of the slug should be tailored to those game. thicker jackets, open up slower, slightly deeper penetration. this goes especially for Hog and Bear. DG slugs are in order. heavy big diameter slug are very called for. </p><p>For Hogs I like large heavy slugs. .338", .375", .429", .458" are my go to diameters. </p><p>Bear I like big diameter and heavy .375" and larger. </p><p>speed goats (pronghorn) 25-06 with 110 grain to 120 grain slugs from 400 yards are sufficient. </p><p>later tatters.. I have to go get groceries.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="freddiej, post: 1735824, member: 26227"] I forgot my popcorn so I will weigh in on this one. I have had a variety of slugs go through my 30-30, 270 Win, 257 Rob., and my father's 30-06. for the muley and white tail we ended up shooting in Calif (Lassen county) were rather big, nothing truly massive but very respectable; we tried 180's in dad's '06, nothing special. they were able to be tracked. my 30-30 had 110 grain varminters from Sierra and Speer. at 300 yards deer never took a step after being hit. They might have hunched up and jumped but they always landed and keep going to the ground. next season I loaded 125 and 110 grain slugs in dad's old '06 and sighted it in at 125 yards, his median shot, and we got two deer that just sort of just got anchored to the spot they were shot. I also started taking neck shots only from about 150 yards away or nearer. body shots(vitals) were 150 and above. still the bucks just sort of died within 10 feet of the spot I shot them. later on when I got my 270 Win I tried out the same theory of light and fast with light construction. this seemed to be the trick for planting deer on the spot. these were all high neck shot. blowing the corroded artery and the spine out. instant stop. my 270 Win was far more accurate than my 30-30 so I was confident to take farther neck shots. shot placement outweighs weight, or diameter in my mind. but if you have to take vitals, heart and lung, shots for deer it is very simple. the slug has to be thinly skinned and will open up at the mere hint of a bone or heavy muscle tissue. on the subject of monoliths (Barnes, Hornady, cutting edge), the work better at short to medium ranges, except the one barnes slug (30-30), you put that in a longer range cartridge and you fling it to 600+ yards it will still stop a deer nearly on the spot you hit it. a 572 yard shot proved that to me and my dad when I accidentally (total brain dead mistake) loaded the 30-30 150 grain slug into dad's 30-06 cases instead of his 30-30 cases. the shot was nearly perfectly disastrous, wind drifted the slug to a place it should not have been, the deer jumped just before impact, the deer got hit in the air, the slug opened up to over .750" and crushed it's way through the ribs and deflected through both the heart and one lung. the deer came down dead. talking Elk, Bear, Hogs, Moose, and .. the construction of the slug should be tailored to those game. thicker jackets, open up slower, slightly deeper penetration. this goes especially for Hog and Bear. DG slugs are in order. heavy big diameter slug are very called for. For Hogs I like large heavy slugs. .338", .375", .429", .458" are my go to diameters. Bear I like big diameter and heavy .375" and larger. speed goats (pronghorn) 25-06 with 110 grain to 120 grain slugs from 400 yards are sufficient. later tatters.. I have to go get groceries. [/QUOTE]
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