Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
Articles
Latest reviews
Author list
Classifieds
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Forums
Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Best Pre-fit Savage barrel? Better than Shilen Super select?
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="J E Custom" data-source="post: 1495661" data-attributes="member: 2736"><p>To explain my beliefs better, I will start at the beginning.</p><p></p><p>Accuracy starts with the barrel quality. No matter how good the smith is, no matter how good the loads are and the shooter, ultimately the barrel determines how much accuracy is achieved.</p><p></p><p>This is even true with identical barrels and chambers from the same barrel makers. Many bench rest shooters will buy 4 or 5 barrels, do all the work, and test for the most accurate barrel for their matches.</p><p></p><p>With my standard of 1/2 MOA or better, I have to buy the best barrels i can find. After inspecting the barrel blank the best I can for straightness and concentricity, I do the set up using the bore center line for threading and chambering. </p><p></p><p>After completing the barrel work, I like to do a complete stress free pillar bedding that I allow to cure at least 6 or 7 days before firing.</p><p>I automatically do break in on any barrel for many reasons, one being</p><p>a good way to find out the quality of the barrel. (It appears that the quicker the barrel breaks in, the better the bore and ultimately the accuracy potential.</p><p></p><p>Normally If I do my part, sub 1/2 MOA is normal. some will start around .375 and others will/have been less than 1/4 MOA. with careful load component selections the realy good barrels will drop below 1/8th MOA. I cannot predict Which barrels will perform the best, (I wish I could) only which ones should based on the experiences I have had during the inspection and build of each barrel.</p><p></p><p>This is the reason I recommend only the best barrels for any build and don't recommend cutting cost when buying a barrel. So if you buy the best quality barrel, and get a realy good one, have a top notch smith do the work, feed it only the best ammo and have good shooting skills, the odds are you will have a real accurate rifle. It anyone of these things are left out, accuracy can range from good to poor.</p><p></p><p>If everything else is done right except for barrel selection, chances are that it will never impress anyone.</p><p></p><p>A friend and excellent gunsmith likes to use the saying, "You can't make a silk purse out of a sows ear" and that sums it up for me to.</p><p></p><p>Just my experience with barrel quality and cost for what it is worth.</p><p></p><p>J E CUSTOM</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="J E Custom, post: 1495661, member: 2736"] To explain my beliefs better, I will start at the beginning. Accuracy starts with the barrel quality. No matter how good the smith is, no matter how good the loads are and the shooter, ultimately the barrel determines how much accuracy is achieved. This is even true with identical barrels and chambers from the same barrel makers. Many bench rest shooters will buy 4 or 5 barrels, do all the work, and test for the most accurate barrel for their matches. With my standard of 1/2 MOA or better, I have to buy the best barrels i can find. After inspecting the barrel blank the best I can for straightness and concentricity, I do the set up using the bore center line for threading and chambering. After completing the barrel work, I like to do a complete stress free pillar bedding that I allow to cure at least 6 or 7 days before firing. I automatically do break in on any barrel for many reasons, one being a good way to find out the quality of the barrel. (It appears that the quicker the barrel breaks in, the better the bore and ultimately the accuracy potential. Normally If I do my part, sub 1/2 MOA is normal. some will start around .375 and others will/have been less than 1/4 MOA. with careful load component selections the realy good barrels will drop below 1/8th MOA. I cannot predict Which barrels will perform the best, (I wish I could) only which ones should based on the experiences I have had during the inspection and build of each barrel. This is the reason I recommend only the best barrels for any build and don't recommend cutting cost when buying a barrel. So if you buy the best quality barrel, and get a realy good one, have a top notch smith do the work, feed it only the best ammo and have good shooting skills, the odds are you will have a real accurate rifle. It anyone of these things are left out, accuracy can range from good to poor. If everything else is done right except for barrel selection, chances are that it will never impress anyone. A friend and excellent gunsmith likes to use the saying, "You can't make a silk purse out of a sows ear" and that sums it up for me to. Just my experience with barrel quality and cost for what it is worth. J E CUSTOM [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Best Pre-fit Savage barrel? Better than Shilen Super select?
Top