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<blockquote data-quote="Steve Shelp" data-source="post: 51971" data-attributes="member: 22"><p>Texas,</p><p> Most of the HG style guns whether they be competition or hunting rigs with the long barrels are blocked and/or sleeved now. It eliminates the need for the big custom actions, and essentially gives you a shorter stiffer barrel while maintaining the long lengths. It also has the added benefit of giving you a place to mount the externally mounted scopes such as the Unertls you see pictured above without touching the action. So in using this setup the only thing that touches the action is the trigger and that is free hanging. So you litterly make the action a place to lock your bolt down into and hang the firing mechanism..... That's it. So the stress is non-existant on the action. Then you take a 40" barrel and hang it from a 9" or 10" block and your shooting the same stiffness of a 30" barrel really with no stress on the action.</p><p> HG style hunting and competition guns that I've dealt with are blocked/sleeved the same way. Now if your talking a carry rifle then you normally back off on the barrel length some and do a conventional piller bedding job with 30-34" barrel lengths to save some weight. But some have blocked these lighter weight rifles also in the 13-15# range. These blocks are a little different in shape and setup but they do the same function. One thing you need to consider is the height of the line of sight on heavier recoiling rifles. If the scope is to high to get the bell to clear the barrel block your going to have the racoon look after firing the big boomers without a much taller comb on the stock to help roll with the recoil. This again adds weight. So everything is a compromise when using one on a carry rifle. </p><p> Most blocks run from 6"-&gt;12" with 9"-10" being the norm. Bruce Baer swears by the 9" block based on his experiments.</p><p></p><p>Crow Mag,</p><p> In the late '80s/early '90s in competition guns the glued sleeve method was probably the majority (that's debatable), but the swing lately has been to split blocks I would say in HG class. Due to the weight restrictions in the Light Gun class most don't use a barrel block or sleeves in that class. As far as which method is more accurate? .... when done properly I don't think either has the advantage. The split block makes it easier to switch barrels and less cost for gunsmithing when rebarreling due to not having to knock the barrel out of the glued sleeve. </p><p> This leads me to your second question. Depending on your rifle setup yes you can have a switch barrel combination using a split block. But it depends on how your scope is mounted (action or block) and a few other thing that dictate how time comsuming it would be to switch one out. Myself I went with a big custom action to hang my barrel out there full floating to have the switch barrel combo in my competition HG. Takes me 10 minutes max from pulling the trigger on one barrel to pulling the trigger on the second barrel. And that's not really hurrying. But again that is without a block.</p><p></p><p>Hope this answers your questions. Sorry for the delay in replying, work has been a bear lately! Anyone have a good bear load? <img src="http://images/icons/wink.gif" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /> </p><p></p><p>to the others, your welcome. No big deal. Had them archived on the computer. Just had to copy them up and link them... in my free time. <img src="http://images/icons/confused.gif" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /> </p><p></p><p>Steve</p><p></p><p>[ 06-02-2002: Message edited by: Steve Shelp ]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Steve Shelp, post: 51971, member: 22"] Texas, Most of the HG style guns whether they be competition or hunting rigs with the long barrels are blocked and/or sleeved now. It eliminates the need for the big custom actions, and essentially gives you a shorter stiffer barrel while maintaining the long lengths. It also has the added benefit of giving you a place to mount the externally mounted scopes such as the Unertls you see pictured above without touching the action. So in using this setup the only thing that touches the action is the trigger and that is free hanging. So you litterly make the action a place to lock your bolt down into and hang the firing mechanism..... That's it. So the stress is non-existant on the action. Then you take a 40" barrel and hang it from a 9" or 10" block and your shooting the same stiffness of a 30" barrel really with no stress on the action. HG style hunting and competition guns that I've dealt with are blocked/sleeved the same way. Now if your talking a carry rifle then you normally back off on the barrel length some and do a conventional piller bedding job with 30-34" barrel lengths to save some weight. But some have blocked these lighter weight rifles also in the 13-15# range. These blocks are a little different in shape and setup but they do the same function. One thing you need to consider is the height of the line of sight on heavier recoiling rifles. If the scope is to high to get the bell to clear the barrel block your going to have the racoon look after firing the big boomers without a much taller comb on the stock to help roll with the recoil. This again adds weight. So everything is a compromise when using one on a carry rifle. Most blocks run from 6"->12" with 9"-10" being the norm. Bruce Baer swears by the 9" block based on his experiments. Crow Mag, In the late '80s/early '90s in competition guns the glued sleeve method was probably the majority (that's debatable), but the swing lately has been to split blocks I would say in HG class. Due to the weight restrictions in the Light Gun class most don't use a barrel block or sleeves in that class. As far as which method is more accurate? .... when done properly I don't think either has the advantage. The split block makes it easier to switch barrels and less cost for gunsmithing when rebarreling due to not having to knock the barrel out of the glued sleeve. This leads me to your second question. Depending on your rifle setup yes you can have a switch barrel combination using a split block. But it depends on how your scope is mounted (action or block) and a few other thing that dictate how time comsuming it would be to switch one out. Myself I went with a big custom action to hang my barrel out there full floating to have the switch barrel combo in my competition HG. Takes me 10 minutes max from pulling the trigger on one barrel to pulling the trigger on the second barrel. And that's not really hurrying. But again that is without a block. Hope this answers your questions. Sorry for the delay in replying, work has been a bear lately! Anyone have a good bear load? [img]images/icons/wink.gif[/img] to the others, your welcome. No big deal. Had them archived on the computer. Just had to copy them up and link them... in my free time. [img]images/icons/confused.gif[/img] Steve [ 06-02-2002: Message edited by: Steve Shelp ] [/QUOTE]
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