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Barrel Threading for future use
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<blockquote data-quote="SierraTwo" data-source="post: 1401630" data-attributes="member: 104659"><p>There are a few things to consider: 1) Wall thickness at the muzzle (as dmoon said, the "meat" between your threads and the bore) and 2) Shoulder thickness (the "meat" between your threads and the outer diameter [O.D.]of your barrel, which will depend on your contour)</p><p></p><p>1) A general safety rule is a minimum of .070" of wall thickness at the muzzle. Keep in mind that's per "side". So your thread diameter should be a minimum of .140" over bore diameter. E.g. If you're bore is .308", .500" (for 1/2"-28) minus .308" = .192", so 1/2"-28 will work.</p><p></p><p>2) Again, using a general rule, you want a minimum of .030" of shoulder (remember, per "side") for your suppressor to seat against, so .060" of barrel diameter over your thread diameter is a minimum (if you're going with the direct thread attachment method). E.g. If you have a sporter barrel and you're running an O.D. of .630" at the shoulder, a 5/8"-24 thread (.625") is a no-go (.630" - .625" = .005"). But 1/2"-28 (.630" - .500" = .130") would be acceptable.</p><p></p><p>Keeping these things in mind, I would recommend threading your muzzle with the largest you can get away with that will satisfy both requirements. E.g. Remington Varmint contour, .308" bore: .830" OD - .625" = .205" or .1025" shoulder; .625" - .308" = .317" or .1585" wall thickness; choose 5/8"-24 over 1/2"-28.</p><p></p><p>Wait, let me rephrase that: I would recommend threading your muzzle with the largest, COMMON thread you can get away with that will satisfy both requirements. You did good choosing 5/8"-24 and 1/2"-28. These are common for most suppressor and muzzle brake manufacturers. You won't want to run a 17/32"-32 or something goofy like that <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /></p><p></p><p>Hope this helps.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="SierraTwo, post: 1401630, member: 104659"] There are a few things to consider: 1) Wall thickness at the muzzle (as dmoon said, the "meat" between your threads and the bore) and 2) Shoulder thickness (the "meat" between your threads and the outer diameter [O.D.]of your barrel, which will depend on your contour) 1) A general safety rule is a minimum of .070" of wall thickness at the muzzle. Keep in mind that's per "side". So your thread diameter should be a minimum of .140" over bore diameter. E.g. If you're bore is .308", .500" (for 1/2"-28) minus .308" = .192", so 1/2"-28 will work. 2) Again, using a general rule, you want a minimum of .030" of shoulder (remember, per "side") for your suppressor to seat against, so .060" of barrel diameter over your thread diameter is a minimum (if you're going with the direct thread attachment method). E.g. If you have a sporter barrel and you're running an O.D. of .630" at the shoulder, a 5/8"-24 thread (.625") is a no-go (.630" - .625" = .005"). But 1/2"-28 (.630" - .500" = .130") would be acceptable. Keeping these things in mind, I would recommend threading your muzzle with the largest you can get away with that will satisfy both requirements. E.g. Remington Varmint contour, .308" bore: .830" OD - .625" = .205" or .1025" shoulder; .625" - .308" = .317" or .1585" wall thickness; choose 5/8"-24 over 1/2"-28. Wait, let me rephrase that: I would recommend threading your muzzle with the largest, COMMON thread you can get away with that will satisfy both requirements. You did good choosing 5/8"-24 and 1/2"-28. These are common for most suppressor and muzzle brake manufacturers. You won't want to run a 17/32"-32 or something goofy like that :) Hope this helps. [/QUOTE]
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