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Backcountry knives- Argali vs Goat knives vs others
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<blockquote data-quote="nmbarta" data-source="post: 2192676" data-attributes="member: 78438"><p>I make my own as well and I don't get caught up in the hype about "super steels" Some of these alloys work really well, but because of the complex alloy, they require a very specific and very controlled heat treating process, that involves very high heat, and very low heat to get right. (liquid nitrogen)</p><p>I use mostly 1084, and can get really good results with it just using my forge, a magnet, and an electric oven. Not so easy to do with 52100 (ball bearings).</p><p>There are several manufactures that are using these new steels, and many of these new steels have mixed review, I know that there are a ton of knives out there that are very expensive, made out of these exotic steels that were not heat treated correctly.</p><p>I love simple high carbon steel, I love how they develop a patina over time. It's fun to watch them change, The very first time you take a highly polished 1084 blade through an onion, you'll be able to see it change, blood will do it as well many other things.</p><p>Any knife steel that has a perfect heat treat is going to outperform any knife steel that missed it's heat treat for the most part.</p><p>The next thing to watch for is edge geometry. This will effect how well a knife performs more than any other aspect of the knife imo. I have found very few manufactures get this right, and need to be re profiled from day one. Edge geometry and the grit that you finish the edge to have a drastic effect on how a knife cuts, and how long an edge will last. I personally like a 30-32 degree combined edge, on a 1500 grit stone. A 40 degree edge with a 600 grit stone done right, will work just fine.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="nmbarta, post: 2192676, member: 78438"] I make my own as well and I don't get caught up in the hype about "super steels" Some of these alloys work really well, but because of the complex alloy, they require a very specific and very controlled heat treating process, that involves very high heat, and very low heat to get right. (liquid nitrogen) I use mostly 1084, and can get really good results with it just using my forge, a magnet, and an electric oven. Not so easy to do with 52100 (ball bearings). There are several manufactures that are using these new steels, and many of these new steels have mixed review, I know that there are a ton of knives out there that are very expensive, made out of these exotic steels that were not heat treated correctly. I love simple high carbon steel, I love how they develop a patina over time. It's fun to watch them change, The very first time you take a highly polished 1084 blade through an onion, you'll be able to see it change, blood will do it as well many other things. Any knife steel that has a perfect heat treat is going to outperform any knife steel that missed it's heat treat for the most part. The next thing to watch for is edge geometry. This will effect how well a knife performs more than any other aspect of the knife imo. I have found very few manufactures get this right, and need to be re profiled from day one. Edge geometry and the grit that you finish the edge to have a drastic effect on how a knife cuts, and how long an edge will last. I personally like a 30-32 degree combined edge, on a 1500 grit stone. A 40 degree edge with a 600 grit stone done right, will work just fine. [/QUOTE]
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