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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Assemble My Own Rifle?
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<blockquote data-quote="tobnpr" data-source="post: 2407095" data-attributes="member: 68758"><p>I've never used a torque wrench when installing barrels to receiver.</p><p></p><p>I don't think it's necessary. Torque value for this assembly is not critical. I can easily ballpark 50-75 ft lbs of torque with an action wrench in my hands- and I've never seen a difference at the target on actions that have been disassembled/re-assembled with potentially different torque on the barrel.</p><p></p><p>I do use a torque driver on action screws, but honestly on a properly stress-free, bedded action there should be no difference in point of impact. Once you have metal to metal contact on the pillars, and the receiver is not being "bent" due to a poor bedding job- how can the receiver possibly "know" how much torque is on the screws?</p><p></p><p>In both of these threaded assemblies- and I'll throw in a third, muzzle devices- torque is needed only to prevent vibration from loosening the thread assembly. Nothing more. Once the shoulders make contact, the parts are in correct alignment. "More torque" does not align them "better".</p><p></p><p>You also don't need a no-go gauge, save the $40.</p><p>Set your headspace to go-gauge contact, add/trim a piece of cellophane packing tape (generally .002-.003 thick) and stick on the back of the go gauge. Your bolt handle should barely start to fall when you release it.</p><p></p><p>Setting headspace is all about "feel". Make sure the bolt is stripped of the ejector (I remove extractors as well) and firing pin/spring.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="tobnpr, post: 2407095, member: 68758"] I've never used a torque wrench when installing barrels to receiver. I don't think it's necessary. Torque value for this assembly is not critical. I can easily ballpark 50-75 ft lbs of torque with an action wrench in my hands- and I've never seen a difference at the target on actions that have been disassembled/re-assembled with potentially different torque on the barrel. I do use a torque driver on action screws, but honestly on a properly stress-free, bedded action there should be no difference in point of impact. Once you have metal to metal contact on the pillars, and the receiver is not being "bent" due to a poor bedding job- how can the receiver possibly "know" how much torque is on the screws? In both of these threaded assemblies- and I'll throw in a third, muzzle devices- torque is needed only to prevent vibration from loosening the thread assembly. Nothing more. Once the shoulders make contact, the parts are in correct alignment. "More torque" does not align them "better". You also don't need a no-go gauge, save the $40. Set your headspace to go-gauge contact, add/trim a piece of cellophane packing tape (generally .002-.003 thick) and stick on the back of the go gauge. Your bolt handle should barely start to fall when you release it. Setting headspace is all about "feel". Make sure the bolt is stripped of the ejector (I remove extractors as well) and firing pin/spring. [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
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Assemble My Own Rifle?
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