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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Annealing question
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<blockquote data-quote="jarnold37" data-source="post: 1883656" data-attributes="member: 29241"><p>When I first started reloading in the early 80's, I used every step I could to prepare my brass. Cut the primer pockets, deburred flash holes, trimmed the length and even reamed inside the necks with a Lee target reloading kit. I would neck size in the Lee neck body, which actually was a straight line die with no button. After two or three neck sizings I would then full length size. Early on I noticed that when using the full length die, there was a noticeable screech as the button was<strong> pulled back out up through the neck. It took some effort on the ram to retrieve it when button was actually sizing. There was no internet then and no major communication for help with problems. I started asking and calling gun builders and most told me to lubricate my necks before sizing. Then I had a rifle built chambered in an Ackley improved cartridge. Wgen fire forming the cases about 50% were splitting in the shoulder neck area. I called the gunsmith and he wanted the gun shipped back to him and the split cases. He soon informed me the problem was bad brass. I told him that it was brand new brass. I quickly learned not to argue with a gunsmith. From this I became aware of annealing. I found that there were many different opinions. Then I called a major brass manufacturer and talked to the engineer over manufacturing. He told me to put the cases in water half way up and use propane torch, in a dark room, and heat til necks start to turn orange and quench in water. Not knowing how hot or orange to go, my dilema was all the different opinions. Most say not to hot it will ruin the brass. So I am confident now because I used the squeeking button method to determine. If The necks werent completely orange, there would be some amount of squeeking from button. Thus some had more neck tension than others.I have noticed my accuracy is better if necks are annealed and have not damaged brass after as many as five annealings. Just my thoughts. I know there are many different views on this.</strong></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="jarnold37, post: 1883656, member: 29241"] When I first started reloading in the early 80's, I used every step I could to prepare my brass. Cut the primer pockets, deburred flash holes, trimmed the length and even reamed inside the necks with a Lee target reloading kit. I would neck size in the Lee neck body, which actually was a straight line die with no button. After two or three neck sizings I would then full length size. Early on I noticed that when using the full length die, there was a noticeable screech as the button was[B] pulled back out up through the neck. It took some effort on the ram to retrieve it when button was actually sizing. There was no internet then and no major communication for help with problems. I started asking and calling gun builders and most told me to lubricate my necks before sizing. Then I had a rifle built chambered in an Ackley improved cartridge. Wgen fire forming the cases about 50% were splitting in the shoulder neck area. I called the gunsmith and he wanted the gun shipped back to him and the split cases. He soon informed me the problem was bad brass. I told him that it was brand new brass. I quickly learned not to argue with a gunsmith. From this I became aware of annealing. I found that there were many different opinions. Then I called a major brass manufacturer and talked to the engineer over manufacturing. He told me to put the cases in water half way up and use propane torch, in a dark room, and heat til necks start to turn orange and quench in water. Not knowing how hot or orange to go, my dilema was all the different opinions. Most say not to hot it will ruin the brass. So I am confident now because I used the squeeking button method to determine. If The necks werent completely orange, there would be some amount of squeeking from button. Thus some had more neck tension than others.I have noticed my accuracy is better if necks are annealed and have not damaged brass after as many as five annealings. Just my thoughts. I know there are many different views on this.[/B] [/QUOTE]
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Annealing question
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