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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Annealeez "Function" Settings
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<blockquote data-quote="nksmfamjp" data-source="post: 2281505" data-attributes="member: 1951"><p>First, the functions on the controller weren't omuch value to me. I'm set where every up/down press gives me 1 speed change.</p><p></p><p>To me, the setup is torch distance to shoulder, flame length and speed setting.</p><p></p><p>25mm is about the minimum flame length that will stay lit consistently. So, I set flame length 25-30 nominal and nozzle to shoulder around 30-35mm….metric because I have a metric ruler! I aim the torch at the base of the shoulder, and away from wheels.</p><p></p><p>Then I put Tempilaq on the inside of the mouth only. In the flame burns and on the wheels cause sticking.</p><p></p><p>i start with speed at 75ish and slow until the tempilaq changes. Then I confirmed the blue line location on the brass body. It should be at least 10% down the body, but no more than 25%. That way I know shoulder got hot. Then I confirm the neck edge doesn't flare at the end of the cycle. The flare means some material is burning away from the brass. I dial it back about 2 speed steps to stop this. The I know I'm as hot as I'd safe and the whole area needed got hot.</p><p></p><p>This method doesn't ruin a case and sets a good anneal setting from what I can tell. 750 is not magic, above 600, you are getting some annealing.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Why is that not true annealing?</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="nksmfamjp, post: 2281505, member: 1951"] First, the functions on the controller weren’t omuch value to me. I’m set where every up/down press gives me 1 speed change. To me, the setup is torch distance to shoulder, flame length and speed setting. 25mm is about the minimum flame length that will stay lit consistently. So, I set flame length 25-30 nominal and nozzle to shoulder around 30-35mm….metric because I have a metric ruler! I aim the torch at the base of the shoulder, and away from wheels. Then I put Tempilaq on the inside of the mouth only. In the flame burns and on the wheels cause sticking. i start with speed at 75ish and slow until the tempilaq changes. Then I confirmed the blue line location on the brass body. It should be at least 10% down the body, but no more than 25%. That way I know shoulder got hot. Then I confirm the neck edge doesn’t flare at the end of the cycle. The flare means some material is burning away from the brass. I dial it back about 2 speed steps to stop this. The I know I’m as hot as I’d safe and the whole area needed got hot. This method doesn’t ruin a case and sets a good anneal setting from what I can tell. 750 is not magic, above 600, you are getting some annealing. Why is that not true annealing? [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Annealeez "Function" Settings
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