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AMP Annealer VS No annealing Vs Torch Head Annealer Vs 2nd/3rd Shot
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<blockquote data-quote="J E Custom" data-source="post: 1412920" data-attributes="member: 2736"><p>I have seen this type of case head separation before. When I first started annealing (And new very little about the correct way of annealing I had some cases do the same thing. I finally figured out that I was over annealing and softening the brass to far down. (the reason I said that annealing was good as long as it was done right). Lately I have bought brass that was not annealed after final sizing from the manufacture at all to save money, and the necks split after the second firing, this may be a case where Hornady is over annealing their brass and it is to soft in this area. (Stranger things have happened) I also have to say how good the Lapua brass is. the brass alloy on all cases are very similar with some on the soft side and some on the hard side. I used a brinell hardness tester on some different brands and it showed a wide range in hardness, the Lapua brass wasn't the hardest so they must have decided on a good alloy that gave both toughness and elasticity + a very good anneal hardness.</p><p></p><p>Winchester used to be some of the softest brass available but not anymore. softer brass is easier to form and this may have been the reason for doing it that way. Now most have very poor quality control and the problem has only gotten worse.</p><p></p><p>The uniform distance down the body makes me think it was over annealed and the annealing went to far down the case body like mine did before I started paying attention to time and heat during annealing.</p><p></p><p>Just a thought</p><p></p><p>J E CUSTOM</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="J E Custom, post: 1412920, member: 2736"] I have seen this type of case head separation before. When I first started annealing (And new very little about the correct way of annealing I had some cases do the same thing. I finally figured out that I was over annealing and softening the brass to far down. (the reason I said that annealing was good as long as it was done right). Lately I have bought brass that was not annealed after final sizing from the manufacture at all to save money, and the necks split after the second firing, this may be a case where Hornady is over annealing their brass and it is to soft in this area. (Stranger things have happened) I also have to say how good the Lapua brass is. the brass alloy on all cases are very similar with some on the soft side and some on the hard side. I used a brinell hardness tester on some different brands and it showed a wide range in hardness, the Lapua brass wasn't the hardest so they must have decided on a good alloy that gave both toughness and elasticity + a very good anneal hardness. Winchester used to be some of the softest brass available but not anymore. softer brass is easier to form and this may have been the reason for doing it that way. Now most have very poor quality control and the problem has only gotten worse. The uniform distance down the body makes me think it was over annealed and the annealing went to far down the case body like mine did before I started paying attention to time and heat during annealing. Just a thought J E CUSTOM [/QUOTE]
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AMP Annealer VS No annealing Vs Torch Head Annealer Vs 2nd/3rd Shot
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