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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
6mm Creed or .243???
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<blockquote data-quote="ducky" data-source="post: 1797240" data-attributes="member: 94420"><p>I had to go to work last night, and that's why I didn't get to this until now. I was hoping someone else would come and sort out the confusion. I must say Lilja's math on throat tapers was an easier read when skimming over it than your posts [USER=112579]@David Emerson[/USER].</p><p></p><p>Now that I've had a chance to read everything and digest, we're having a terminology issue here. To me there is no such thing as a parallel throat, a throat to me is always where the chamber tapers or "funnels" to meet the rifling of the barrel. That's why I was having such a difficult time understanding what you were talking about. Freebore or Lead is what I've always referred to your term parallel throat. I also didn't want to assume what you were talking about. </p><p></p><p>So yes you are correct a SAAMI spec reamer print shows no freebore/lead for the .243 Win, but I've never had an issue in the several .243 Win rifles I've owned finding an accurate enough load for hunting and varmints. However, I never built a rifle nor have I hand loaded my ammunition with the goal of shooting a caliber sized 5-10 shot group before that rifle. I never got much better than .5 MOA on a consistent basis, but I blame that on my trigger pulling skills and not the cartridge I chose.</p><p></p><p>I built the Stevens 200 pictured above for a local steel shoot, and what that rifle did make me do is pay attention to my reloading process. I bought a few specialized tools (mainly dies and measuring tools), and did more case prep than ever before. What I found out is I manufactured ammunition that was extremely uniform with very little run out and velocities had a very low ES and SD. This I attribute that process to the accuracy of that rifle more than how chamber/throat was designed.</p><p></p><p>So in the end I feel I made up for the .243's shortcomings by focusing on a different aspect of the process. If you work with what you have, you can usually make it work very well. I don't disagree with you in any way that the 6 Creedmoor is a more advanced/efficient round. So my take is if buying a factory rifle to shoot long range is your goal, buy a 6 Creedmoor for versatility. If building a custom rifle and loading your own ammunition it makes very little difference, build what you want.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="ducky, post: 1797240, member: 94420"] I had to go to work last night, and that's why I didn't get to this until now. I was hoping someone else would come and sort out the confusion. I must say Lilja's math on throat tapers was an easier read when skimming over it than your posts [USER=112579]@David Emerson[/USER]. Now that I've had a chance to read everything and digest, we're having a terminology issue here. To me there is no such thing as a parallel throat, a throat to me is always where the chamber tapers or "funnels" to meet the rifling of the barrel. That's why I was having such a difficult time understanding what you were talking about. Freebore or Lead is what I've always referred to your term parallel throat. I also didn't want to assume what you were talking about. So yes you are correct a SAAMI spec reamer print shows no freebore/lead for the .243 Win, but I've never had an issue in the several .243 Win rifles I've owned finding an accurate enough load for hunting and varmints. However, I never built a rifle nor have I hand loaded my ammunition with the goal of shooting a caliber sized 5-10 shot group before that rifle. I never got much better than .5 MOA on a consistent basis, but I blame that on my trigger pulling skills and not the cartridge I chose. I built the Stevens 200 pictured above for a local steel shoot, and what that rifle did make me do is pay attention to my reloading process. I bought a few specialized tools (mainly dies and measuring tools), and did more case prep than ever before. What I found out is I manufactured ammunition that was extremely uniform with very little run out and velocities had a very low ES and SD. This I attribute that process to the accuracy of that rifle more than how chamber/throat was designed. So in the end I feel I made up for the .243's shortcomings by focusing on a different aspect of the process. If you work with what you have, you can usually make it work very well. I don't disagree with you in any way that the 6 Creedmoor is a more advanced/efficient round. So my take is if buying a factory rifle to shoot long range is your goal, buy a 6 Creedmoor for versatility. If building a custom rifle and loading your own ammunition it makes very little difference, build what you want. [/QUOTE]
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Reloading
6mm Creed or .243???
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