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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
475 linebaugh blackhawk
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<blockquote data-quote="biff&#039;s reloading" data-source="post: 2431222" data-attributes="member: 6078"><p>Jar of stock finish I like. Refill to the lid after each time I use it and it hasn't cured any in the jar. Mix 1/3 turpentine, 1/3 coldpressed linseed, 1/3 epiphanes sparvarnish in glass and add 2 or 3 big spoonfuls of paprika. The natural red is way less "red" than paint dies and doesn't mute the prism effect the way pigments do. Linseed slows cure down so I have more than 2 minutes to get it soaked, coat it even with a swab (long way) or slurry it with 800grit(shortcut), then squeegee the Excess off with a card or driver license, filling pores. Turp dissolves (not "thins") the resins into the oil so they work as a slower resin/faster oil without any "buildup" look. It also draws better. Turpentine is a penetrating oil like wd40 and BP blaster. It creeps well. Mineral spirits dont. It's a thinner (not disolver). That stuff is more like a liquid wax than an oil. Sucks.</p><p>After an hour, I rub the excess off. With a t shirt material Wrapped on a dowel. Takes off the excess, leaving pores full. Cure a few hours and do it again.</p><p></p><p>5th coat. Pores are filled and the prism effect is showing some. "A coat a day for a week, a coat a week for a month, then a coat a month for a year" is how you do oil. My mix let's me do up to 3 coats a day and done in about a week, ready for wax. I'm not doing anything fancy to these but cant leave them unfinished. I wanted to checker a bit but they are pretty soft. Doubt it.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]338142[/ATTACH][ATTACH=full]338140[/ATTACH]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="biff's reloading, post: 2431222, member: 6078"] Jar of stock finish I like. Refill to the lid after each time I use it and it hasn't cured any in the jar. Mix 1/3 turpentine, 1/3 coldpressed linseed, 1/3 epiphanes sparvarnish in glass and add 2 or 3 big spoonfuls of paprika. The natural red is way less "red" than paint dies and doesn't mute the prism effect the way pigments do. Linseed slows cure down so I have more than 2 minutes to get it soaked, coat it even with a swab (long way) or slurry it with 800grit(shortcut), then squeegee the Excess off with a card or driver license, filling pores. Turp dissolves (not "thins") the resins into the oil so they work as a slower resin/faster oil without any "buildup" look. It also draws better. Turpentine is a penetrating oil like wd40 and BP blaster. It creeps well. Mineral spirits dont. It's a thinner (not disolver). That stuff is more like a liquid wax than an oil. Sucks. After an hour, I rub the excess off. With a t shirt material Wrapped on a dowel. Takes off the excess, leaving pores full. Cure a few hours and do it again. 5th coat. Pores are filled and the prism effect is showing some. "A coat a day for a week, a coat a week for a month, then a coat a month for a year" is how you do oil. My mix let's me do up to 3 coats a day and done in about a week, ready for wax. I'm not doing anything fancy to these but cant leave them unfinished. I wanted to checker a bit but they are pretty soft. Doubt it. [ATTACH type="full" alt="IMG_04022022_183432_(1116_x_1910_pixel).jpg"]338142[/ATTACH][ATTACH type="full" alt="IMG_04022022_183408_(1069_x_2200_pixel).jpg"]338140[/ATTACH] [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
475 linebaugh blackhawk
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