Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
Articles
Latest reviews
Author list
Classifieds
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Forums
Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
1917 Eddystone Rebuild?
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="Apex Custom Rifles" data-source="post: 2027013" data-attributes="member: 19307"><p>I've done a lot of 1917 1914 customs. If you have an original action, there's collector value there today. New m1917 barrels can be had from criterion or I know there's another parts company out there now selling 17 barrels, but they need an extractor cut and all need headspacing.</p><p></p><p>A new stock is a different story. Originals are expensive and I'm not sure who's making repost today. If you can find the parts including stock hardware, it'll probably cost $5-600 to get it back to original.</p><p></p><p>Send me the action and $1,000, and you'll have a really nice sporter action to barrel and stock yet. I have not cut up an original untouched action in years. You can find actions that already have some of this work done. Sometimes the whole rifle for $2-300. Cheaper to start there than with an original.</p><p></p><p>There's more work to them than just making them look nice and removing metal.</p><p>-feeding</p><p>-new cocking piece</p><p>- new helix on bolt for cocking piece.</p><p>-new main spring</p><p>-milling and finishing outside</p><p>-straighteneing bolt handle</p><p>-straightening floor plate</p><p>-narrowing trigger loop</p><p>-squaring front ring</p><p>-filling rear hole if needed</p><p>-removing stripper clip guides</p><p>- modifying extractor to clip over cases</p><p>-polishing feed ramp</p><p>- shortening mag box</p><p>- lightening firing pin</p><p>-drill and tap for scope bases</p><p>- shave safety lever</p><p>-bending bolt stop spring</p><p>-lapping lugs (can't be true on lathe due to angle)</p><p>-lapping raceway.</p><p>-modifying follower to allow bolt close on empty</p><p>-new action screws and fitting</p><p>-timing new trigger and cocking piece.</p><p>-setting firing pin protrusion after new cocking piece installed.</p><p>-polish and reblue.</p><p></p><p>You can skip a few steps, but you won't end up with a top notch action. My actions are really slick and pretty easy bolt cycling. </p><p></p><p>Eddystone actions are plenty strong. A tad bit harder so people with big hammers tended to crack them much more often when trying to improperly remove the barrels. I've built magnums on eddystones with no issues. Use the proper tools to remove the barrel and you are fine. If I had a choice of which manufacture to use would be Win, Rem, then eddystone. Wins tend to slocken up easier, and Rems tend to not have the rear hole milled out although I have them all manufacturers without holes.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Apex Custom Rifles, post: 2027013, member: 19307"] I've done a lot of 1917 1914 customs. If you have an original action, there's collector value there today. New m1917 barrels can be had from criterion or I know there's another parts company out there now selling 17 barrels, but they need an extractor cut and all need headspacing. A new stock is a different story. Originals are expensive and I'm not sure who's making repost today. If you can find the parts including stock hardware, it'll probably cost $5-600 to get it back to original. Send me the action and $1,000, and you'll have a really nice sporter action to barrel and stock yet. I have not cut up an original untouched action in years. You can find actions that already have some of this work done. Sometimes the whole rifle for $2-300. Cheaper to start there than with an original. There's more work to them than just making them look nice and removing metal. -feeding -new cocking piece - new helix on bolt for cocking piece. -new main spring -milling and finishing outside -straighteneing bolt handle -straightening floor plate -narrowing trigger loop -squaring front ring -filling rear hole if needed -removing stripper clip guides - modifying extractor to clip over cases -polishing feed ramp - shortening mag box - lightening firing pin -drill and tap for scope bases - shave safety lever -bending bolt stop spring -lapping lugs (can't be true on lathe due to angle) -lapping raceway. -modifying follower to allow bolt close on empty -new action screws and fitting -timing new trigger and cocking piece. -setting firing pin protrusion after new cocking piece installed. -polish and reblue. You can skip a few steps, but you won't end up with a top notch action. My actions are really slick and pretty easy bolt cycling. Eddystone actions are plenty strong. A tad bit harder so people with big hammers tended to crack them much more often when trying to improperly remove the barrels. I've built magnums on eddystones with no issues. Use the proper tools to remove the barrel and you are fine. If I had a choice of which manufacture to use would be Win, Rem, then eddystone. Wins tend to slocken up easier, and Rems tend to not have the rear hole milled out although I have them all manufacturers without holes. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
1917 Eddystone Rebuild?
Top