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Hunting
Long Range Hunting & Shooting
100 or 200 yard zero
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<blockquote data-quote="charliewhisky" data-source="post: 2853952" data-attributes="member: 26716"><p>I am not the most skilled long range shooter in this group but, It is my opinion that a zero under 200 for most big game rifles is a waste of energy and time and will almost always require you to dial a correction at ranges over 200yards. A real problem in most under 300 yard encounters where time is a critical factor.</p><p></p><p>A 100yd zero means you are probably never shooting above the line of sight aiming point on your target. This means that your MPBR is about 3 inches for a relatively short distance beyond 100 yds, unless you hold over.</p><p></p><p>At 200 yds your MPBR is slightly larger at distances inside 200yds because your trajectory probably had to come up above line of sight to reach zero at 200yds. Again, your MPBR past 200 yards drops off quickly.</p><p></p><p>A suggestion is to do what I have done.</p><p>First, determine your velocity.</p><p>Second, get a good group at 100yds. It would be best if every shot counted as a "first cold round".</p><p>Third, use a ballistic calculator and play with your zero distance to determine the maximum zero distance that gives you a six-inch MPBR.</p><p>Fourth, using your 100-yard group data, adjust your scope to match the 100-yard rise at the optimum zero you calculated. Set this as your new zero.</p><p></p><p>An example of how this works is my 700LR in 30-06 with a 200 grain ELD-X at 2774 FPS.</p><p>I zeroed at 100yds and adjusted the turret up to match the rise required at 100 yds for a 235 yard zero.</p><p>I now have an MPBR of 278 yards that has been verified on Iron out to 300 yards.</p><p></p><p>a benefit is that a top line holdover on an average size whitetail deer at ranges over 278 yards should give me a chest hit out to almost 400yards.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="charliewhisky, post: 2853952, member: 26716"] I am not the most skilled long range shooter in this group but, It is my opinion that a zero under 200 for most big game rifles is a waste of energy and time and will almost always require you to dial a correction at ranges over 200yards. A real problem in most under 300 yard encounters where time is a critical factor. A 100yd zero means you are probably never shooting above the line of sight aiming point on your target. This means that your MPBR is about 3 inches for a relatively short distance beyond 100 yds, unless you hold over. At 200 yds your MPBR is slightly larger at distances inside 200yds because your trajectory probably had to come up above line of sight to reach zero at 200yds. Again, your MPBR past 200 yards drops off quickly. A suggestion is to do what I have done. First, determine your velocity. Second, get a good group at 100yds. It would be best if every shot counted as a "first cold round". Third, use a ballistic calculator and play with your zero distance to determine the maximum zero distance that gives you a six-inch MPBR. Fourth, using your 100-yard group data, adjust your scope to match the 100-yard rise at the optimum zero you calculated. Set this as your new zero. An example of how this works is my 700LR in 30-06 with a 200 grain ELD-X at 2774 FPS. I zeroed at 100yds and adjusted the turret up to match the rise required at 100 yds for a 235 yard zero. I now have an MPBR of 278 yards that has been verified on Iron out to 300 yards. a benefit is that a top line holdover on an average size whitetail deer at ranges over 278 yards should give me a chest hit out to almost 400yards. [/QUOTE]
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100 or 200 yard zero
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