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The Basics, Starting Out
0 vs 20 MOA Scope Rail
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<blockquote data-quote="Joe Entrekin" data-source="post: 2821478" data-attributes="member: 106619"><p>I use Burris Signature XTR rings, and for long range like we're talking here, a 20 MOA base. I get the scope optically centered as best I can, then use the ring inserts to put the scope as near as I can to the desired initial sighting point. In this situation I might put that initial sighting point kind of high, like 20 MOA, so that at distance the scope will still be operating near the optical center. You can use the insert sets to move the scope in almost any direction so pretty easy to do this. These rings are also very rugged and offer the bonus of not marking the scope tube. Hope this helps the discussion.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Joe Entrekin, post: 2821478, member: 106619"] I use Burris Signature XTR rings, and for long range like we're talking here, a 20 MOA base. I get the scope optically centered as best I can, then use the ring inserts to put the scope as near as I can to the desired initial sighting point. In this situation I might put that initial sighting point kind of high, like 20 MOA, so that at distance the scope will still be operating near the optical center. You can use the insert sets to move the scope in almost any direction so pretty easy to do this. These rings are also very rugged and offer the bonus of not marking the scope tube. Hope this helps the discussion. [/QUOTE]
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The Basics, Starting Out
0 vs 20 MOA Scope Rail
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