Recent content by Coyoteee

I shoot 140 Accubonds in a 270. Can get them up to 3000 fps and they shoot half inch if I do my part. As good as a partition and more accurate.

it's in a rem700 bdl. Custom barrel and its stamped 338-06 rcbs improved. I called rcbs and they know nothing about that stamp. I did some measuring and the shoulder is .050" further ahead than an AI. The body taper is the same as an AI. I have no way to measure the shoulder angle but it's...

Thanks a lot for the intel, guys. I'll get some cerrosafe, do up a mold and send it in to get dies made. Heres what it looks like, 30-06 on the R

I’m in Canada, so I don’t know if anyone does that here, I can likely get a mold made, and send it south if anyone knows who can make the dies for me.

He only ever neck sized it. He gave me some brass that’s loaded ready to fire-form, also some that’s been reloaded after fire-forming, all of which I will take apart cuz I don’t know what’s in there, and he can’t remember, no notes, it’s been sitting in a closet for 20 years.

So I just picked up a 700 Rem from an fella ive known for several years and he said it’s chambered as above. I’ve heard of 338-06AI and 338-06 A Square. As near as I can measure the case it’s 2.03” to the shoulder. IT doesn’t have any dies, except for 338WM, he said he ran a 30-06 case thro...

Was my go to when I had a 25-06. Works well in 280AI with 140 Accubond Works well 257 WB with 80 ttsx bt Shot .25" 300WM with 150 Speerspbt Go to powder for 338 Imperial Mag 250gr which is a child of 404 Jeffrey very similar to the RUM lineup

Wow, that half inch sure makes a big difference. Thanks for the info. Apparently there’s 140gr and heavier available now, and that could go up a bit yet too, so I’ll go with the 7”. The barrel builder that I use builds a gain-twist barrel. Starts at 10 or 11 and tightens progressively down...

I’m a quarter-bore fan as well. Had a 25-06 that I shot out, rebarrelled to 280AI. I have a 257 WBY that won’t shoot. 1.5” is the best I’ve ever gotten, shot the throat out trying. Got 1/2” cut off the barrel and re-chambered with a much shorter freebore, still no good. So after reading this...

I’m in a similar quandry with a 300wm and 165 cup n core. I’ve had no success with H4350, so I loaded up to do a ladder test with IMR7828. And I’ll let you know the results when I shoot them here in a few days. A few different manuals show 7828 to be a good choice for this combo. Fills up the...

So then a universally good load would be what’s in a reloading manual. And different manuals have different universally good loads. So then take that principle one step further and average out all those universally good loads. And then work with that to find what your particular rifle likes. Not...

I had trouble getting my 270W to throw the Hammer bullets very well, I phoned Hammer ( I think it was Steve I talked to), and he suggested to strip the bore to bare metal and try again. His thot was that the different copper alloys from different bullets caused ‘stiction’ which caused the Hammer...

I’ve got a 300wm in a tikka M695 that never shoots a bad group regardless of what I feed it. My guess - you say it’s freefloated 3” ahead of the tang. My guess is to move the floating back in .5” increments. And you might have to move it all the way to the tang. I’ve got a 338 Imp Mag (...

Thot I’d chime in here and share with you what my experience is. I’ve shot a 2506 a lot, burned out a barrel. Am still on the fence what to rebarrel it in. Leaning towards a 2506 again. But I’d go fast twist and try some heavies in it just to see firsthand what that’s all about. And if I...

This works equally well on the 257 Bee. My main source for brass for this round.