which reloader?

JMss17,
The first thing you gotta have is a desire to "roll ur own". You have that, no matter what the intent. I can't say that one machine is better than the other. Lee, Hornady, Forster, RCBS: they are all in the market to make money. Look at 'em all and make your pick. All of them will make bullets, it's up to you to tailor the load to your rifle.
With that said, I've been using a RCBS RS5 single stage for about 25 yrs now. I've reloaded 10,000 rifle bullets, twice over and 5000 pistol bullets, maybe once, possibly twice over. I don't foresee it ever giving up. If it does, my dad left me his RCBS RockChucker. It's in the closet on standby. I also have a Hornady L-N-L AP close by. I don't use it much but it rock and rolls when called upon. Good luck. JohnnyK.
 
JMss17,
I'm not sure about that. I do all of my reloading on a single stage, but that fits my style. I do alot of load development, find a accurate load and then load up small runs for plinking or hunting. Not really into bulk storage of ammo.
I have used my L-N-L AP to load .270Win for a cousin's husband and he said it was the most accurate ammo he'd ever shot. Not sure if he was blowing smoke or what. The powder measure/dump on my AP is very consistent. Maybe others with pregressives will chime in. JohnnyK.
 
I am not into shooting 1,000 rounds a weak, so it would just be pretty much for testing and hunting and the occasional range day. That is why I was thinking single stage.
 
There is one problem getting with a friend who has been reloading, you would first need a friend who reloads.

I wouldn't worry too much about that. Search this forum and post your questions. I think you'll find lots of people more than willing to to help. Plus your questions might help someone else later. I don't know what your budget is but there's nothing wrong with starting with less expensive equipment and upgrading later. You'll have a much better feel for what you want/need after you get started. You can pick up a lot of stuff cheap on eBay to start. Get yourself a manual or two from who ever your choose and read them. I would start with a single stage press if your not loading for semi autos. They will lend better for detail in each round you make.
 
A single stage press is cheaper than a good turret press. A turret press may come in handy if you intend to load a couple different cal's and you don't like resetting your dies. I use a single stage and it is fine. IMHO, the Redding Big Boss II is one of the best buys for the buck. I purchased a Rockchucker IV last year and kinda wish I would have gotten the redding.. not a big deal. Redding seems a little tighter than the RCBS. I have no experience w/ Forster.

I like a didgital scale since it is easier to weight sort brass and bullets with. A ballance beem is hard to do that with.


Here is a short list of some of the other items I think you would like if you want to purchase it piece meal:

FIRST AND FORMOST Loading manual!! read it until you can recite it!! I have used and like Speer and Nosler, but I think most componant suppliers will make a fair book. I am serious as a heart attack about reading the loading procedures. I taught myself how to load with some help from the local gunsmith at age12 or 13 from reading the Speer #11. (And I am still learning lots 17 years later)

case holder (one for your priming tool and one for your press (around 4 or 5 bucks apiece)

A stainless steel caliper (anything accurate to .001" @$30)

good FL die set (I preferr redding and Forster)

Case trimmer (lee works and are very cheap but hard to do bulk lots, Forster redding rcbs @$80)

Powder thrower (IMHO don't spend much because loads should be weighed =Lee for @$20)

case lube (one shot or similar spray are easy to use)a

Priming tool (Lee $30 does work fine or RCBS hand held unit $50. I hate the press mounted types)

Tumbler (not totally needed but it makes cleaning any dirt or debris out of the cases easy...lyman 1200 is good one)

Didgital scale (I payed big bucks for mine 14 years ago and they are alot cheaper now should be able to get one for around $100) If you can afford it and plan on loading any bulk ammo than the RCBS 1500 auto for $300 is a good buy but not necessary if you just do a box or two at a time). Otherwise a good ballance by Lyman, RCBS, or Hornady will do just fine for about half of a didgital.

Primer pocket cleaning tool and case neck deburring tool (Lee, RCBS...most are ok and about $10 together).

There is a lot of other items that are very good for helping make very good ammo but not necessary to make good ammo. VLD case neck deburring tool, Flash hole deburring tool, Primer pocket uniformer, sinclair COAL guage (the most important thing for makeing lot to lot consistancy!!)... yata yata yata. ya gotta stop somewhere lol.


Well, I think that is a good list and I hope it helps.

ALso, Nosler has a good forum and good guys over there. Just don't try to talk about the Sierra Matchking and hunting big game lol! Nosler Reloading - ammunition, hunting, shooting, and performance reloading expertise from the source.

take care, Mark.
 
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If your going to reload let me suggest a book to read. "Handloading for Competition" by Glen Zediker. ISBN # 0-9626925-9-X. He covers everthing from A to Z in a way even I could understand. Most informative read on reloading and the reloading tools I have ever read.
 
Get a Hornady LnL, Redding Boss, Lyman Orange, Rockchucker and Lee Classic Cast, they are so equal in performance that it won't make a bit of difference to your reloading. The only presses that are superior to them in any way are the Forster Co-Ax and Redding UltraMag, but not by much, and each of them have some disadvantages that detract from that, so hardly worth the extra cost.

Seems many of us give far more loyalty to our favorite presses that can be justified by the facts. Presses are quite simple devices and there's no secrets to how they are made, so there's precious little difference between them, by type anyway. Pick any one of those above and you will be happy with it, you simply can't go wrong with any of them.

Ditto with dies. All are good and your ammo will never know how much or how little you paid. Well actually, Lyman and Redding have the "best" handgun dies but only because of their unique expander plugs. (Redding copied Lyman's excellant "M" expander die)

Other stuff; For dealing with powder, you will have to a powder scale. You should understand that digital scales are no more accurate than beams but the better ones cost a lot and are much more finicky. Also, get a good powder measure - Redding, Hornady, Lyman or RCBS, all good. Those and a trickler - Redding, Hornady - will make a nice combo to handle your powder charges.

Try the spray case lubes for your handgun stuff and use a finger tip applied lube for rife cases - Lee , Hornady's Unique, Redding's Die Wax are all very good. And put a stuck-case remover - RCBS - on your first list, you will need it later.

Get a good standard reloading manual or two. Start with a Lyman, maybe add a Hornady, Sierra or Lee. You will want more later, they are all quite useful books, no one prints a bad manual.

With all due respects to Glen Zediker and his (expensive) "Handloading for Competition" book, I feel that the good professor writes a lot of words for us to plow through to get the relevant data he provides. Ir'a good book but Glen's not what anyone would call succinct! And he speaks mostly - surprise - to hand loading for military match competition and that's mostly with AR type rifles! Let me suggest an alternative in what I feel is the best "advanced" loading book for most or us, and at a much lesser cost; "The Precision Shooting Reloading Guide", edited by Dave Brennan of Precision Shooting magazine. It's much broaded in its application and is a lot more practicle because of that. (IMHO) MidwayUSA and Sinclair used to sell both books, guess they still do.

All that's a bit more than you asked but it seems relivant for where you are now. Good luck!
 
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I just purchased a Forster co-ax. Works better than I even expected. More pricey than a rockchucker, but well worth the money imho. No shellholders to buy for this model which is attractive and helps with the increased cost. Dies are a breeze to change. Primer dust and dirt goes down the tube so it stays clean. Priming tool on top leaves a lot to be desired though!
 
I really like the Co=Ax, but as I mentioned above, like all other presses, it has a few warts. One is the priming. My solution is to use a hand held primer. The Lee AutoPrime is simple, easy to use and works fine for me.

Other thing I don't care for is the lever being directly in from of it's guts so it's equally awkward for both left and right handers. But it works good, don't it? :D
 
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