Marine sniper
Well-Known Member
No one I shoot competitions with wet tumbles brass, it can create inconsistent neck tension / release issues.
I use corn cob media, what is your method?No one I shoot competitions with wet tumbles brass, it can create inconsistent neck tension / release issues.
Sometimes I get a little carried away and buy more than I actually need. I've got 100 or so new Peterson 280AI brass left. I'm going to load it for hunting and a little bit of trueing the load for virgin brass. The virgin brass with HH143 is shooting very well.I'm a little different from others here! On ammo I'm only hunting with I do load development with whatever bullet I intend to use, using the Virgin brass. Then load up the remaining seventy five or eighty rounds and hunt with it for the next couple of years. When I'm down to about twenty or so then I neck shoulder bump, then reload knowing I'll have to drop the charge a touch and work up. Components are far to expensive to just shoot up hundreds of hammer bullets and primers to get second or third firings as some reccomend. When the Virgin brass will shoot great. I tell this the people I load for, when you have shot these up come back, we will work up another load for the once fired. Or maybe my pockets just aren't as deep as others. If it was PRC shooting I'd go a different route.
You can sometimes get very accurate loads when you are fireforming new brass.Does that mean that fire forming is only fire forming, or is there useful information to be gleaned from that process?
I have a couple of ladders put together with vigin ADG brass and Hammers. Should I pull the bullets and use Hornadys for the first firing?
I can't speak for anyone but myself.Hello,
I worked up a load with virgin 280 AI Petersen brass. It shot great, roughly 1/2 MOA with an ES of 6fps.
I wet tumbled the bras, annealed it, Re-sized and the exactly copied the original load…sme lot of primers, powder, bullets etc. seating depth the same.
It e fed up shooting over MOA, the velocity was 30 fps faster and the ES was in the 20's.
Oh, I also used the same expander mandrel.
What gives?
I figured I messed up annealing it.
Conversely, I worked up a load with once fired 300 WSM brass…..all the same prep…..it shoots great. All touching.
I throw the same powder charge, primer, powder etc….and I ran it through a the same die to make sure the neck tension was the same as the once fired.
It shot terribly.
Anyone else have the same experience?
One can wet tumble directly after the range. Any of those possibilities of dings and or neck tension inconsistency mentioned would be removed during the reloading processNo one I shoot competitions with wet tumbles brass, it can create inconsistent neck tension / release issues.
I have done both. I started wet tumbling because it cleans the primer pockets.No one I shoot competitions with wet tumbles brass, it can create inconsistent neck tension / release issues.
I shoot F-class. getting sub 6 inch 20 shot groups at 1K , 3 shot sub .5 groups at 300. Never clean brass or primer pockets.I have done both. I started wet tumbling because it cleans the primer pockets.
Are you dry tumbling and taking the time to manually clean all the pockets?!?
I shoot F-class. getting sub 6 inch 20 shot groups at 1K , 3 shot sub .5 groups at 300. Never clean brass or primer pockets.
Used to clean brass, wasn't near as consistent as just leaving them alone, so o don't do it anymoreiv
I had good experience with this as well. What case lube did you use ? Did you just wipe it off with a rag ?I shoot F-class. getting sub 6 inch 20 shot groups at 1K , 3 shot sub .5 groups at 300. Never clean brass or primer pockets.
Used to clean brass, wasn't near as consistent as just leaving them alone, so o don't do it anymore
Both when using a FL neck bushing die. Then mandrelNewb quetion: So is everyone here just neck sizing their fire formed brass? Or full length sizing?
I use a foster neck, shoulder bump bushing die.Newb quetion: So is everyone here just neck sizing their fire formed brass? Or full length sizing?