Trigger Adjustments

[shortgrass]

From the title you'd think this belongs in the "Gunsmithing" section. Just came from there. Currently there are 5 different threads about trigger adjustments in the "Gunsmithing" section. I see 2-3 rifles a month with trigger problems, usually from improper adjustments. The one that really sticks in my mind happened 2 years ago, first day of deer gun season. It went like this; (phone call)(caller) do you do trigger work?(me) sure, whats the problem? (caller)I just missed the nicest buck I ve ever had a chance at. I let my friend adjust the trigger on my Winchester 70 and it fired when I clicked the safety off. I was sitting leaning against a tree with my legs streached out in front of me, good thing the muzzle wasn't pointed at one of my feet when I clicked the safety off, it's a .300 WSM! Within about 30 minutes the caller arrived at the shop. I took a look and the trigger pull weight/return spring had NO tension on it at all, it just kind of floated there. Crap like that scares me!!!!!!!!!!! We all learn by doing. Trigger adjustments just might not be the best place to practice "learning by doing". Here's another example, I had a Rem. 700 Varmint Master come to me for CeraKote. Its' owner uses it for deer. When I reassembled the rifle I check the trigger and the safety. Trigger was extreamly light, checked with my trigger weights. The trigger would trip with just the weight of the rod with no other weights attached to it. The rod weighs 8 oz. I mentioned this to the owner of the rifle. The responce is as follows; well,,,, Dad was a sniper in WW2 and,,,,,,,,, thats' when I shut my ears off! (Issue 'sniper' rifles during WW2 had a minimum of a 4lb. pull. ) The point being, If I can't hit with a 2 1/2 or 3 lb. pull under field conditions a 8 oz. pull weight probably won't help me, only practice will. SOME THINGS DON'T GROW BACK! just my rant for today

 

[J E Custom]

From the title you'd think this belongs in the "Gunsmithing" section. Just came from there. Currently there are 5 different threads about trigger adjustments in the "Gunsmithing" section. I see 2-3 rifles a month with trigger problems, usually from improper adjustments. The one that really sticks in my mind happened 2 years ago, first day of deer gun season. It went like this; (phone call)(caller) do you do trigger work?(me) sure, whats the problem? (caller)I just missed the nicest buck I ve ever had a chance at. I let my friend adjust the trigger on my Winchester 70 and it fired when I clicked the safety off. I was sitting leaning against a tree with my legs streached out in front of me, good thing the muzzle wasn't pointed at one of my feet when I clicked the safety off, it's a .300 WSM! Within about 30 minutes the caller arrived at the shop. I took a look and the trigger pull weight/return spring had NO tension on it at all, it just kind of floated there. Crap like that scares me!!!!!!!!!!! We all learn by doing. Trigger adjustments just might not be the best place to practice "learning by doing". Here's another example, I had a Rem. 700 Varmint Master come to me for CeraKote. Its' owner uses it for deer. When I reassembled the rifle I check the trigger and the safety. Trigger was extreamly light, checked with my trigger weights. The trigger would trip with just the weight of the rod with no other weights attached to it. The rod weighs 8 oz. I mentioned this to the owner of the rifle. The responce is as follows; well,,,, Dad was a sniper in WW2 and,,,,,,,,, thats' when I shut my ears off! (Issue 'sniper' rifles during WW2 had a minimum of a 4lb. pull. ) The point being, If I can't hit with a 2 1/2 or 3 lb. pull under field conditions a 8 oz. pull weight probably won't help me, only practice will. SOME THINGS DON'T GROW BACK! just my rant for today

Excellent advice.

All triggers come with a set amount of sear engagement and should not be tampered with
unless it is buy a competent Gun Smith. trigger pull weight and over travel adjustments can
be adjusted. But you still need to know what you are doing.

Like Shortgrass, I don't recomend anything less that 2 1/2 pound trigger pull on a hunting
rifle because of different conditions.

Most triggers have a operating range by design and should never be exceeded (A trigger
with a 3 to 6 pound design range should never be adjusted below 3 pounds or it will not
be consistant and problems will occur.

There are Lot's of aftermarket triggers that have a usable range like the Jewel (1.5 to 4
pounds and I recomend a 2.5 trigger pull at the lowest.

There is a point that you can adjust the trigger two light and hurt your accuracy/consistency
except on a bench gun that the shooter does not touch the rifle to shoot it just the trigger.

All of the NRA national high power matches require a minimum trigger pull of 4 pounds and
many records have been set at long distances with this setup.

Just turning a screw does make a trigger perform better.But it can make it dangerous if set
improperly.

And It's not a rant Shortgrass . Its a good reminder not to tamper with something as important
as a trigger.

Again: Good post !!!!!

J E CUSTOM

 

[Chas1]

+1 w/shortgrass and J E, I see it here all the time...folks either looking for advice on how to adjust triggers or having a problem after adjusting. My advice which some accept and some don't want to hear is...Take it to a competent gunsmith, it's not expensive and you don't want it going bang when it ain't supposed to.

 

[fred64]

shortgrass, thank you for this talk. I am sending it to a friend of mine. maybe this will help him understand.
I like a lite lite trigger at the range, but never for huntin. and I NEVER EVER do the adjusting myself. id much rather pay someone that KNOWS.

 

[RTK]

I've had a friend with a scary DIY trigger job and I sure never want one to go off when not intended. That being said I like a 2lb trigger ( or tad less) on all my guns whether they are primarily shot from bench or in the field, it's more of a consistency of feel thing for me.

 

[fred64]

RTK----makes sense to me.