Tikka upgrade

A friend I shoot with ofter got a tikka 6.5 creedmoor last fall. He did the trigger spring and replaced the grip with the more vertical one. With rl26 and 156 bergers seated way out (like he is going to get a new bolt stop and la mag out there because his tikka has a real long throat) he is pushing them at 2830 and holding just under 1/2 moa out to 300 yds. With no vertical in the groups at all.
 
Just shoot it first, then decide what you need. Leave ample time for cooling between 3 shot strings. I say this because the rifle is a hunting rifle not a target rifle and the only problem I have ever seen with the lite version is that groups can open up as the barrel heats.
 
I love my Tikka... As I stated before, I changed out the stock to a Bell and Carson and put an APA brake on it.. oh, and put a Burris Eliminator 3 on top.

The link is me ringing steel at 800 with my Tikka T3 in 270 WSM. Nosler factory 150gr ABLR.

 
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I have one and had another until recently. I would say keep the factory stock for now and see how it shoots. Torque the screws to between 35-45 in/lbs (factory specs is 45 in/lbs). Unless, you just want to go throwing a bunch of money at it.

First few cheap things to replace that may make it shoot better would be the spring (I got mine from coretac solutions and it's at 1.5lb now), maybe a Sims recoil pad, and a new recoil lug if the previous owner chewed it up with pliers removing it from the stock.

I would only buy a new stock if you hand-load. Free-floating the light Tikka barrels means your barrel will be far pickier on what ammo it will shoot well. If you want to buy a cheaper stock, I suggest Boyd's laminate stock. I bought a prairie Hunter for mine and I like it alot. But, it's not a drop in. Their inletting isn't 100%. So, you may have to do a little bit of work on it and it would definitely be best to bed the action into those stocks.... Which needs to be done a pretty specific way with tikkas to have it done correctly.
 
Been reading the forums for a couple of months but this is my first post.

I just got a great deal on a lightly used T3x Lite in 6.5 CM. Some guy traded it in on an AR during the panic buying and I get the benefit because the LGS he traded to doesn't deal much in bolts. 😀

The action is smooth and the trigger is decent. I plan on using it to shoot steel out to 800, sometimes (attempt) 1K but mostly to dispatch some of the oversupply of coyotes infesting my turkey hunting ground.

I have a Zeiss Conquest 5-25 x 50 or a 4-16x44 Vortex to put on top so don't need a scope right now.

What would be the best first upgrade you folks would recommend for the Tikka to make it an even better shooter?
Sounds like mainly for targets so replace stock Oryx or a KRG Bravo maybe the trigger spring which is simple 10.00 upgrade but the triggers are pretty nice already. Zeiss scope will be good. Shoot it awhile then decide. Great rifles.
 
I picked up a new Tikka T3 Forest in 260 a few years ago for around $600. It was on clearance from euro optic. I bought the Atlasworks enhancement kit with screws, pillars, recoil lug and did a good bedding job with Devcon first. I replaced the plastic stuff, trigger guard, bottom metal and bolt shroud. Replaced the trigger spring, modified my bolt throw and magazine so I could load longer bullets. Put a NightForce 2.5-10X42 on it, did my load development, and never looked back. Comes in right at 10lbs, seems heavy these days, but I've come to love that rifle and it's accuracy. I have much more expensive rifles/scopes, but for some reason my hand always wants to grab my comfortable Tikka when I'm heading out on my deer hunts.
 
The only way to know what you like is...go shoot it.Then once you have done that you can intelligently decide what you like or don't like about the rifle.my .02$ good luck I have 6 tikkas for the money they are hard to beat.
 
Your on the right track with a Tikka as a starting point. like most has said,

trigger spring

Stock , take your pick depending on intended shooting style

Brake or no brake personal choice

Atlas worx bottom metal.

other then that take it out and shoot some critters and enjoy.
 
Thanks to all for your input. This rifle was an impulse buy. It didn't show any signs of wear, gun shop had a bore scope, clean as a whistle. I am not sure if it's has even a box of ammo thru it. I bought it because it was light, had a smooth action....and almost 1/2 price didn't hurt.

I am taking it out with a selection of factory ammo this weekend to see how it shoots. I will do a trigger spring as I like lite triggers, it's what I am used to from pistol shooting.

I might change the stock, but will try it out first. Both the Bravo and Boyd's AT look very interesting. I wont be chasing 1/4 MOA....just MOC......minute of coyote.

But like all my firearms.....I always get the itch to upgrade at some point. Good thing I didn't try that with the wife.....wouldn't have any money for hobbies like this.
 
Shooting a Tikka T1x but stocks are same same.
I first went with factory vertical grip and wide forearm replacement. Nice. Then jumped to KRG Bravo. Didn't see a great accuracy improvement ( factory stock shot very accurate) but WAY easier to shoot off a bench.
 
Peasant, I saw a Bravo at the range on a 700, looked interesting but I didn't get to shoot or even hold it. I have read good reviews on it. Was it easy to install? I don't have an issue with some tweaking if necessary but I want to weigh that when looking at different stocks.
 
Peasant, I saw a Bravo at the range on a 700, looked interesting but I didn't get to shoot or even hold it. I have read good reviews on it. Was it easy to install? I don't have an issue with some tweaking if necessary but I want to weigh that when looking at different stocks.
Drop in. Also they now make a KRG Bravo that uses CTR magazines which I like because these magazines are great and don't hang down that far Love them and this is the one I will get. But mine is a Tikka T3 CTR 6.5 Creedmoor little different than the T3 or T3X. Magazines are metal not plastic.
 
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