Tikka barrel Removal - not smooth as could be, now what?

[tobnpr]

Even if you are able to clean up those threads, I think you're going to reduce your bearing surface to the point I wouldn't trust it.

Please explain your reasoning.
In this case, the galling transferred material from the barrel tenon and "filled in" the female receiver threads.
I see no problem with using a bottoming tap and plenty of cutting oil to try to chase the threads, with a lot of backing in/out as the excess material is removed.

The only difference between single-pointing and using a tap is that the tap will follow the factory-cut threads. This is a hunting rifle, not a precision target stick. OP has given no indication that there were any issues with the receiver that would justify the cost of blueprinting it- which is what I would insist on doing if I were to do the work as the setup needed to single-point is the bulk of the time/cost; no reason to half-*** it when you're set up for it.

 

[Mike D Texas]

Please explain your reasoning.
In this case, the galling transferred material from the barrel tenon and "filled in" the female receiver threads.
I see no problem with using a bottoming tap and plenty of cutting oil to try to chase the threads, with a lot of backing in/out as the excess material is removed.

The only difference between single-pointing and using a tap is that the tap will follow the factory-cut threads. This is a hunting rifle, not a precision target stick. OP has given no indication that there were any issues with the receiver that would justify the cost of blueprinting it- which is what I would insist on doing if I were to do the work as the setup needed to single-point is the bulk of the time/cost; no reason to half-*** it when you're set up for it.

The galling would have also removed or displaced material in the action. Galling rarely just fills in the holes, it typically chunks out the material as well.

 

[orchemo]

Will contact an old-school gunsmith in the area tomorrow. See what he has to say and go from there.

 

[Arcola]

Please explain your reasoning.
In this case, the galling transferred material from the barrel tenon and "filled in" the female receiver threads.
I see no problem with using a bottoming tap and plenty of cutting oil to try to chase the threads, with a lot of backing in/out as the excess material is removed.

The only difference between single-pointing and using a tap is that the tap will follow the factory-cut threads. This is a hunting rifle, not a precision target stick. OP has given no indication that there were any issues with the receiver that would justify the cost of blueprinting it- which is what I would insist on doing if I were to do the work as the setup needed to single-point is the bulk of the time/cost; no reason to half-*** it when you're set up for it.

My reasoning is that I'm not a professional in this field. Why not seek the advise of one?

I don't have the specifications detailing how much surface contact is necessary to maintain functionality with "expected" chamber pressure. Much less, unexpected over pressure situations.

Not something I'm willing to gamble on.

The area that is galled is most certainly a larger diameter than the original root diameter, thus diminishing surface contact.

The OP asked for opinions, and I gave mine.

 

[Bob Wright]

My reasoning is that I'm not a professional in this field. Why not seek the advise of one?

I don't have the specifications detailing how much surface contact is necessary to maintain functionality with "expected" chamber pressure. Much less, unexpected over pressure situations.

Not something I'm willing to gamble on.

The area that is galled is most certainly a larger diameter than the original root diameter, thus diminishing surface contact.

The OP asked for opinions, and I gave mine.

Yep. It's going to go oversize just to get some safe amount of thread cleanup. The tap is going to go back to std pitch diameter. It accomplished nothing with a tap. Set it up in a lathe, pick up the lead thread and do it right. At least .030 oversize to clean that receiver up.

 

[tobnpr]

Agree to disagree...by the time the OP pays to blueprint the action, and have an oversize tenon barrel spun up- he could have brought a brand new T3, and then some...

From the photos, I see only material from the barrel tenon being transferred to the receiver.

Nothing to lose but $50 by trying to clean them up with a tap- it'll work or it won't.
8 years as an 07 FFL.

 

[orchemo]

Thanks for all the input.

 

[Roughrice]

I'm not really a betting man but I'd put money on a scope/rail screw galling the thread in that spot or a bad bur that the screw pushed down into the tenon threads and got trapped between the barrel and receiver threads and galled all the way out.

Measure the screw hole distance from the end of receiver face on inside and out.
From the looks… that appears to be the culprit.

 

[Boe]

I think there is an important issue many have overlooked, It appears the first six or seven threads nearest the receiver face are damaged . Its only the first two or three threads nearest the receiver that will be making full thread flank contact when the barrel is torqued against the face of the receiver. Basically, it's only the first two or three threads and the mating receiver face surfaces that are securing the barrel to the receiver.

That being said, Its very important that the threads nearest the face of the receiver are machined correctly.
If this receiver came in my shop I'd determine if there is enough receiver diameter to safely single point machine the tenon threads until they fully clean up. If there is any doubt, I would advise my client to replace it.

For any of the younger guys is this business, ANY mods done to a factory receiver puts you in a position of liability. If something happens to a rifle like this and the shooter gets hurt it's not going to end well for you.
New receivers are cheap insurance.

 

[B-LOT Banga]

IMHO I would have your gunsmith oversize the threads and have a custom fit barrel. He would advise you if it's safe to use or not and only he can determine (or another GS who actually seen the receiver in person) if it's good to go. Next time if you're removing another barrel and you don't mind losing the barrel I would make a relief cut on the barrel, they usually spin off easily. But if you're not confident I would get another receiver, your safety and life is worth more than a few hundred dollars. Just my humble opinion and suggestion…. Good luck and stay safe brother!

 

[Hydra6]

I like Tikka actions for builds. I have a factory T3X 300WM myself I want to rebarrel but if the action is damaged - I would look at the "math" before I spend too much gunsmithing money. You can get a used Tikka rifle for $600-700 or similar. A Tikka magnum bolt has value by itself. I would start looking at scrapping a damaged action then buying a replacement Tikka if the gunsmithing charges start adding up.

 

[orchemo]

Exactly my plan.

 

[couesaddict]

Did this on a scraper the other day to repair some threads. All seriousness though I think if that action was mine, I'd probably be looking for a stripped down receiver to replace it or another used donor rifle to try again. You're going to lose one of the big selling points of a tikka which is the availability of prefits if you have that one fixed. And they don't look like they have a lot of meat left for over sizing the threads too much either.

 

[orchemo]

Action threads all cleaned by gunsmith and ready to go.