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would the plate still draw up if you welded through a hole in it and from the other side?
TIGHTEN PRIMER POCKETS, here's how.
- Thread starter tbrice23
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OP,
That's a whale of an idea ...... thanks for sharing!
You've made me get my thinking cap on!
Not to steal your thunder, but to add to it .......... I am wondering about a different fixture and bottom anvil to cause brass to be upset a little deeper into the pocket?
Right now, I assume you are moving the brass at the pocket opening for the most part but I am wondering if a receiver base and an adjustable hardened screw from up through the center of this base with a tip shaped not convex like a steel ball but concave like a rivet set punch to deepen the brass displacement.
Also there are punch sets for center finding ...... they have a "raised tip" that would "find" the inside flash hole with an otherwise flat face .......... I just happen to have a set of them, I'll have to see if they are too much of a good thing however.
..... I'll be visiting your system ........ you can bet on it!
Many thanks again!
Three 44s
That's a whale of an idea ...... thanks for sharing!
You've made me get my thinking cap on!
Not to steal your thunder, but to add to it .......... I am wondering about a different fixture and bottom anvil to cause brass to be upset a little deeper into the pocket?
Right now, I assume you are moving the brass at the pocket opening for the most part but I am wondering if a receiver base and an adjustable hardened screw from up through the center of this base with a tip shaped not convex like a steel ball but concave like a rivet set punch to deepen the brass displacement.
Also there are punch sets for center finding ...... they have a "raised tip" that would "find" the inside flash hole with an otherwise flat face .......... I just happen to have a set of them, I'll have to see if they are too much of a good thing however.
..... I'll be visiting your system ........ you can bet on it!
Many thanks again!
Three 44s
Chances are that it would draw the other way, but at least it might sit better than having it draw up on the corners like a bowl.
You could "dog" the plate by tacking it to another thick plate while welding it then after it cools cut the tacks.
When welds cool and then shrink it can move the world.
If you are welding chrome to CS I'd rather TIG weld it (chrome filler rod). That involves pre heat and post heat to prevent cracking PITA).
You really want the bolt big enough diameter to support itself ouside the primer pocket or you will collapse the primer pocket.
If you look at a hex head bolt it is almost always concave . I use 1/4" because its larger diameter than the PP. The tape around the bolt at the neck length is to keep it centered in the case. And after each blow I'll rotate the case 1/4 turn to insure that I am pressing the brass evenly.
Remember it is possible to tighten them too much! A couple of blows then measure it.
The center finding punches I have are ground with a pretty small dimple to form the punch mark ...... it's not even large enough to set a drill bit reliably, it's designed to mark the metal so you can find it and properly finish center punching it prior to drilling.
As a set of punches, there are fractional sizes and I'll be able to get as close to case mouth size as practical.
I am going to try one case at a time and not wreck a bunch .... that's for sure.
As matter of course, I inside flash hole debur all my metalic cases and I am thinking my center finding punches may well index with those.
Thanks for reminding me about not collapsing the pockets from the inside.
Best regards
Three 44s
As a set of punches, there are fractional sizes and I'll be able to get as close to case mouth size as practical.
I am going to try one case at a time and not wreck a bunch .... that's for sure.
As matter of course, I inside flash hole debur all my metalic cases and I am thinking my center finding punches may well index with those.
Thanks for reminding me about not collapsing the pockets from the inside.
Best regards
Three 44s
Will do.
There is no sense in buying a set until it's known how they work ....... in our case .... we already have them for our farm shop ...... so why not give it a whirl?
They should be hard enough for brass ........ they are made to mark steel so that a true center punch can be reliably positioned in the small pocket they make to make it fit for a drill bit.
Here's what they look like:
http://www.harborfreight.com/28-piece-transfer-punch-set-3577.html
HF is probably not the best quality out there so that price is a bit deceiving.
Best regards
Three 44s
Wedgy
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Did you notice in the video on the first hammer strike the primer launches out of the priming tool ? That was pretty funny. Great idea.
Tired of loose pockets? I WAS but not no more!
Tired of loose pockets? I WAS but not no more!
The Hart tool does ensure that the casing and primer pocket are properly aligned in order to prevent bulging the bottom of the primer pocket. But their steel punch that impacts the case head around the perimeter of the primer pocket flares out with continued use - becoming non-funtional.
Using a harded bolt as large as the case mouth will pass should help prevent bulging the bottom of the primer pocket when using the hardened ball bearing technique. So I don't see any problem using the ball bearing approach on the larger caliber casings. You're using it well with .308 cartridges - correct? Have you used it with .284 cartridges yet? Are you seeing any problems with smaller caliber casings?
Using a harded bolt as large as the case mouth will pass should help prevent bulging the bottom of the primer pocket when using the hardened ball bearing technique. So I don't see any problem using the ball bearing approach on the larger caliber casings. You're using it well with .308 cartridges - correct? Have you used it with .284 cartridges yet? Are you seeing any problems with smaller caliber casings?
