So.... 6.5 PRC fliers.....

I have had multiple guns where the action bolts were not properly torqued. Youd get a couple rounds together and 1 a couple inches away. Every new gun i get i check the action screw torque before i do anything else.

I had 1 other issue i am still dealing with. Tried some lighter varmint bullets in a faster twist barrel. Think the over stabilization is interacting with inconsistencies in the bullet jacket. Had a 0.8moa group 9 shot group, with 10th shot was almost 2in to the left.
 
Allen Kitts said:
I couldn't agree more. Ive been telling guys for years you don't get to shoot groups at animals. I validate my gun every year before hunting season at 100 yard intervals from 200 to 700 with cold barrel shots to make sure it is on when I pull the trigger the first time because that is probably the only shot I am going to get at an animal. I strive for 1/2MOA three shot groups at those distances earlier in the year but when hunting season comes around it's one cold bore shot, then pack it up and shoot something else until it completely cools down cold to the touch then another one and so forth until I know I am ready for the season. JMO and I agree with yours.
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Your answer lies within. I don't care where shots 3-4-5 and so on go, I only care where the first and possibly the second shot go with a hunting rifle.

The exception to that rule is a rifle that I use for pigs/varmints, then I care somewhat, but if it's sub-fist, I am good with that, because alot of the time I don't care about recovery of the animal.
 
bluedog69 said:
I didn't loosen them. Just started low and worked my way up. EGW states 20 in lbs on most of their rails. So the rail screws didn't move at 20.
As far as the stock/ action screws go, I have never had any luck finding any info for numbers on tightness. I have seen guys say 35 all the way to 65. I started at 20 and worked up to 45 to see if and when they might move.
Problem is I have put in 28 hours at school the last two days. So hopefully Wed - Fri will let me work on this thing some.
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Savage accu I believe is 48" lb. That is how I set all of mine. 65 was for chassis style or stocks with internal chassis.
 
I gave up trying to get my 6.5prc 110 Tactical to shoot and re-barreled it with a Shilen stainless 1:7 twist.
The only thing I could get it to shoot was 140 VLD-T handloads.
I tried 147 ELD-M, 143 ELD-X, 140 ELD-M, 140 Hybrids, 153 A-Tips, 156 EOL, factory Hornady ELD-M and factory ELD-X. It wouldn't shoot any of them better than a 3" group at 100yds. The 147's, 153's and 156's it shotgunned.
It's in an MDT LSS XL Gen II chassis. All of my Savage rifles are in MDT chassis.
I called James at Northland Shooters Supply and ordered a new barrel, nut and recoil lug.
I have 110 Tacticals in 308 and 6.5 CM. Both are absolute tack drivers. The 308 seems to shoot everything extremely well.
 
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Have you borescoped the rifles bore? I had a savage 223 barrel that copper fouled in a couple shot and threw fliers. Scoped it and found a washboard bore. Replaced barrel and its a tack driver
 
Definitely want to torque your action screws to factory specs. I have seen this heal more than a few rifles. My cousin could not get his 110 Bat in 338 LM to shoot at all. I loosened the action screws, torqued them, I bring them down to barely snug, beginning with the back screw, set the gun on a hard surface with the barrel facing straight up to get is seated as far back as possible. Snug both screws just a bit more paying close attention to the barrel lining up in the barrel channel, and then torque your back screw then the front. That rifle went from five-inch groups to a literal ragged hole rifle at 100 yards. I really can't tell you how many rifles this has healed for me. I recently bought what looked like a brand new old stock CZ in left hand 223 off gb. The gun would not shoot. I should have started out torquing action screws before I even mounted a scope, but it slipped my mind. Torqued the action screws and it's shooting just fine now, but most CZ's do.
 
Seabeeken said:
Have you borescoped the rifles bore? I had a savage 223 barrel that copper fouled in a couple shot and threw fliers. Scoped it and found a washboard bore. Replaced barrel and its a tack driver
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Both bores on Tackett's 308 and Wyatt's 6.5 appear to be about the same roughness.
I know that after a super thorough cleaning it took about 6 shots for the 6.5 to settle back to where it was with a dirty bore. Hoping to not have to rebarrel, but may have to.
 
highfinblue said:
Definitely want to torque your action screws to factory specs. I have seen this heal more than a few rifles. My cousin could not get his 110 Bat in 338 LM to shoot at all. I loosened the action screws, torqued them, I bring them down to barely snug, beginning with the back screw, set the gun on a hard surface with the barrel facing straight up to get is seated as far back as possible. Snug both screws just a bit more paying close attention to the barrel lining up in the barrel channel, and then torque your back screw then the front. That rifle went from five-inch groups to a literal ragged hole rifle at 100 yards. I really can't tell you how many rifles this has healed for me. I recently bought what looked like a brand new old stock CZ in left hand 223 off gb. The gun would not shoot. I should have started out torquing action screws before I even mounted a scope, but it slipped my mind. Torqued the action screws and it's shooting just fine now, but most CZ's do.
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I will give this a try tonight hopefully. I like the standing it on end idea. Hadn't thought of that.
 
bluedog69 said:
I will give this a try tonight hopefully. I like the standing it on end idea. Hadn't thought of that.
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Treat setting actions like you do scope bases. Always push the recoil lug into the block to ensure it cannot move under recoil and torque. I prefer to do the front and rear back forth in steps and my final torque is the front first, finish rear. Just me and how I do it. I do torque everything period these days. Used to just tighten until I felt like it was good enough. I found tq to spec removes another variable for inconsistencies that we may face when dialing in a rifle system.
 
Tatergunner said:
I have mounted scopes and worked up loads in 5 or 6 new Savage rifles in the last 12 months. Every one of them had problems with the action screws and the pic rail scope base screws being completely drenched in brown machine oil and not even close to being torqued. Now I won't even shoot a new Savage until I have stripped it down and cleaned every screw and applied blue locktight. On 2 of these guns the action practically fell out of the stock and/or the pic rail was found to be wobbling while shooting first rounds at the range trying to break the gun in.
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Every time I get a rifle in to do any custom reloading that is exactly what I do. Strip off every thing and clean it. Clean the bore, screws and check to assure the barrel is floating if its supposed to be, or bedded properly. Then blue locktite all the screws.
 
@bluedog69 FWIW - If you go through the Internet and Facebook you'll find no shortage of posts about the 6.5 prc 110 Tactical having accuracy issues.
When I pulled my factory barrel I contacted Savage and asked them to whom in their company I should send it to.
They haven't responded.
My guess is they're not going to.
 

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