Remington 788 Build

06mauser

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94
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Wyoming
I recently picked up a very rough (truck gun) Rem 788 chambered in 243 win with a 18" carbine barrel. I took it all apart cleaned 30 years of dirt, grease, and a failed camo paint job off of it, strip, sanded, and finished the stock. It looks pretty good for a birch stock.

I scrubbed out the bore and found that the last 1" of the barrel is pretty much trashed. So no real room to cut it down and re crown it. So that being said I would prefer to keep this a 243 since I am building this gun for my son to start shooting (he is 8).

So basically my question is what should I do for a new barrel and recommended twist. I have pondered putting a proof on it to help keep the weight down or should I just go for a shorter steel barrel. I was leaning toward a 8 twist barrel but this is variable too. Any help with ideas is greatly appreciated.
 
No I haven't been able to shoot it yet. I just finished cleaning it all up last Friday and didn't even think about attempting it since it was mother's day. I am going to try this weekend if the war department doesn't have plans for me around the homestead.
 
I agree shoot it. Also a little trick on those stocks is you can use hairdye on them for color. They dont take much otherwise
 
The suggestion to shoot it first is a good one. If it wont shoot, start with the least expensive option and go from there. to do a proper job just cutting and crowning would not bring it back all the way with out setting the shoulder back and cutting a new chamber. The cost of this could be close to the cost of a new barrel. If you re barrel I would replace it with a factory contoured barrel of steel and not worry about the weight. The 243 is not known for recoil so that would not be an issue.

Barrel twist should be 1 in 9 or 1 in 10 for best all round performance and bullet selection.

J E CUSTOM
 
I agree with trying it first....I had a 788 carbine in .243 and it shot very well, you may get lucky! As a side note, I picked up a old Rem 600 in 243 that had the same thing, with the last inch of the barrel rust pitted bad. I ran though some load work up, and the best I could get it shooting was about 2-1/2" and 100 yards. Since this was a youth starter rifle, I cut the barrel down from 18" to 16-1/2", squared it off and re-crowned it. It will now shoot around 1" which is plenty good for it's intended use....At some point I will re-barrel it but it's cheap to load and the kids can shoot it very well so it will stay as it is! I can't help you with your barrel decision, but I will say from dealing with my children shooting that I think overall length can be worse that overall weight.....Their arms just have a hard time holding up a barrel hanging way out there. They do fine shooting off hand with the short .243, but struggle with a lighter 20 gauge that has a 24" barrel. Carrying them though the woods make a big difference as well. So in other words, I wouldn't go with a longer barrel in Carbon fiber, but get the same length as you would with a steel barrel, and take the weight savings. Just my $.02-Good luck!
 
Unless you jump through the hoops to get it tax stamped as a SBR cutting the barrel less than 18" is a felony. If it won't shoot well you could try counter boring. Place the barrel in a lathe or milling machine and run a reamer down the barrel to cut out the bad rifling inch or so area but leaving the barrel length 18". I have seen a good number of Mauser and Mosin rifles done this way by the Russian refurbishing and it works. Another option would be to cut the barrel down and re-crown then permanently affix a barrel extension of some short like a muzzle brake or flash hider to bring it back to 18"or longer. Other wise having a new barrel put on will cost as much as a new rifle.
 
Thanks guys for your ideas. Most of the shooting that will be done with this rifle for awhile will be banging steel and some prairie dogs. Children in Wyoming can not hunt big game until there 12, so my boy has some time to really get used to this gun.

I actually just finished the stock with Danish oil. This piece of birch actually had a little figure to it and I liked the bleached look.

Like I said I'm going to shoot it this weekend and see what it does. If I can't get it to group its getting a new barrel.

If I want to shoot the 115 grain bullets shouldn't I get a barrel with a 1 in 8 twist?
 
I have had several cheaper rifles rebarreled by Shaw and have been very pleased with the results. Very reasonably priced and they can contour it to fit the stock. I would go with a 20" or 22" barrel.
 
Some 788's can be remarkably accurate, don't sell it short! Even if you can't get the current barrel to shoot, a rebarreling job shouldn't be all that expensive, even if you use an off brand barrel. The trigger will make you work for decent groups but the potential is there. Cheers,
crkckr
 
This is a cool little project for your son. If the barrel wont shoot to the level you want you could certainly get hunting accuracy with a shaw or eabco barrel for a small investment compared to premium cut rifled barrels
 
I recently picked up a very rough (truck gun) Rem 788 chambered in 243 win with a 18" carbine barrel. I took it all apart cleaned 30 years of dirt, grease, and a failed camo paint job off of it, strip, sanded, and finished the stock. It looks pretty good for a birch stock.

I scrubbed out the bore and found that the last 1" of the barrel is pretty much trashed. So no real room to cut it down and re crown it. So that being said I would prefer to keep this a 243 since I am building this gun for my son to start shooting (he is 8).

So basically my question is what should I do for a new barrel and recommended twist. I have pondered putting a proof on it to help keep the weight down or should I just go for a shorter steel barrel. I was leaning toward a 8 twist barrel but this is variable too. Any help with ideas is greatly appreciated.

I too recommend that you try the current barrel, before making any expensive changes. 1" or 2" of throat erosion in a 243 Win usually won't kill hunting/steel accuracy, if the rest of the bore is good. I suspect you will probably see close to MOA accuracy from your 788, even with the erosion. What you will probably see is somewhat lower velocities, due to the throat erosion.

Your not going to be able to shoot the 115gr boat tails in that barrel though. From some date in 1969 on forward Remington used a 1 in 9" twist rate in the 788 243 Win. In 1967, when they first stared making the 788 243 Win, until they switched the twist rate in 1969, I believe Remington used the standard 1 in 10" twist rate, that nearly every manufacturer producing 243 Win at the time used and most still use! With either version factory barrel, your 788 won't stabilize the 115gr bullets. It probably won't stabilize any boat tail over 100gr and won't stabilize the Berger 95gr Hybrid. They'll be too long for your twist. Stick to 100gr Hornady Interlock boat tails, 100gr flat base Spitzers or lighter bullets, with your factory barrel. If you shoot Hammer or Barnes copper solid bullets, you'll need to shoot 80gr or less boat tails, or 85gr to 90gr flat base bullets, unless you rebarrel with a faster twist rate barrel. I will tell you that the Hammer Bullets, Hammer Hunters are awesome! Extremely accurate, easy to develop a great load and fanominal terminal performance! Hammer also list the recommend minimum twist rate in the specifications of each of their many bullets.

Not sure of your altitude or temperature you plan to shoot in but, if your going to rebarrel and you plan to shoot the 115gr Bergers, you'll need at least a 1 in 7" twist, unless you are at a pretty high elevation and only plan on shooting in warmer temperatures. Even the Berger Hybrid 105gr need a twist rate faster than 1 in 8"! Go to Berger's online twist rate calculator and play around with the bullets and environmental variables. That will give you some idea of what twist your 243 Win barrel will need for your intended bullets and use.

As far as a barrel for the 788, and knowing that the kids will be using it, I'd go with a stainless 5R rifled 20" to 22" Bartlein #2b or no more than a #3 contour (or other manufacturer's equivalent) barrel. If it weren't for the youngsters, I'd install a 24" #13 Sendero contour but, that's just my preference. Bartlein makes great barrels as do many other barrel makers. Most can be had for around $350 for just the barrel. I use mostly Bartlein, Rock Creek, Hart and Broghton barrels but, also have a lot of others that shoot extremely well.

Southern Precision Rifles (Bugholes.com) sells a lot of great barrels: Bartlein, Rock Creek, Brux, Proof Research, Hawk Hill, etc. and does a great job of installation at reasonable prices as well. He usually has a pretty long wait though, as most really good, well known gunsmiths have.

Wishing you the best of luck, and great shooting!
Kevin
 
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