Reloading beginner equipment checklist help

I forgot: throw away the case lube crap that came with the set and get a tin of Imperial sizing die wax and Imperial powdered graphite neck lube (in application media). You'll be very glad you did.
 
I have Hornady OneShot Case Lub and imperial sizing wax. I'm thinking about returning the RCBS dies and trading them in for Redding Deluxe Die sets and a Redding micrometer stem.
 
I started reloading with an RCBS kit, and so I bought their dies at first. Then a buddy let me use one of his Redding sets for a caliber I didn't have and I have bought them for everything I've added to my collection since. They seem better finished, and I like the micrometer seating stems and VLD internals. I use Hornady lock rings on all my seating dies- the flats for the wrench and the cross-bolt locking screws are tops.
 
Yeah I got the sense that I made the wrong call on those. Thanks for the advice.

I can't find these competition shell holders for the cases I'm interested in. They seem to only come in $55 sets and I'd need two for only one holder in each.
 
Sinclair International has them for mid-40s. I have two sets, one for "standard" case head diameters and one for "belted magnum" diameters. I only own 1 magnum rifle at this time, so I am only using one from that box. I use multiple shellholders from the "standard" set as each rifle's headspace is unique. Forgive me if I am telling you something that you already know, I am just trying to be helpful. My 6.5 Creedmoor has relatively short headspace, and uses the +.002" piece. My 280AI uses +.008". So does my 6.5/284. My 30-06 uses +.006". I am building a second 280 right now, and haven't decided if I want to set it up to match the one from last year, run it tighter and load two different ammo specs, or reset the headspace on the older rifle so they are both tight. But using these shellholders lets me match whatever I have as necessary.
 
Sinclair International has them for mid-40s. I have two sets, one for "standard" case head diameters and one for "belted magnum" diameters. I only own 1 magnum rifle at this time, so I am only using one from that box. I use multiple shellholders from the "standard" set as each rifle's headspace is unique. Forgive me if I am telling you something that you already know, I am just trying to be helpful. My 6.5 Creedmoor has relatively short headspace, and uses the +.002" piece. My 280AI uses +.008". So does my 6.5/284. My 30-06 uses +.006". I am building a second 280 right now, and haven't decided if I want to set it up to match the one from last year, run it tighter and load two different ammo specs, or reset the headspace on the older rifle so they are both tight. But using these shellholders lets me match whatever I have as necessary.

I don't know crap about anything. I'm just a newbie. Heck I don't fully even understand the headspace part. I'm pretty confused by all this actually.
 
That's why you need to start simple and take it slow. The most important thing to learn in reloading, is knowing pressure signs. Read and watch everything you can about pressure. If you go to the local gun range, there will someone who is willing to mentor you, it helps to have some hands on training. I would get some good brass a case trimmer, calipers, beam scale and a good press, with all of the lube and dies of course. And take it slow and add things as you learn.


PS. I forgot the tumbler....
 
The basic reloading manuals from the major reloading supply companies tell you the basics. Just about anyone can load ammo- HOWEVER- tailoring precision ammo to your individual rifle's chamber takes a bit more study and careful execution. Here's a quick and dirty explanation of headspace:

Each caliber has a SAAMI specification for its dimensions. The tools used to cut rifle chambers in barrel blanks wear with repeated use, producing changes (small but inevitable) in these dimensions. Fitting a barrel to a receiver, fitting a bolt to a barreled action, all these processes lead to little variations on the main theme, resulting in each chamber being as unique as a fingerprint. Headspace is a length measurement from one point on the case to another, and must fall between acceptable maximums and minimums for a rifle to function safely and reliably. When you fire a round in your rifle, the case expands to fill your chamber. When we are reloading for accuracy, we want to resize the case as little as absolutely necessary while still feeding and chambering reliably, so as to fit the chamber as perfectly as possible next time we shoot it. Measuring the "headspace" of the fired case is a necessary step, in order to know how much (or how little) to squeeze the case back toward the SAAMI specs. The less we change the size of the case during reloading, the better (theoretically, and also usually practically as well) our accuracy potential. It also helps the brass case to last longer (you get to reload it more times before it is "used up"), saving you money on supplies (but not really because you'll shoot more and spend more anyway- its an addiction!). Using the competition shellholders allows me to consistently match my resizing to my fired headspace very closely. There are other methods that can be used, this is the one I prefer. You will want to learn more about seating depth, case trimming, annealing and a few dozen other things to maximize the quality of your ammo.
 
I had a hard time convincing myself that the Wilson Ultimate was a good idea at $170 but now I just found out I need shell holders for it as well for yet another $25. Not much but geez. It's making me feel like I should start with the Forster... Honestly I don't think I can justify $45 for shell holders that I can get for $7... I'm just trying to beat factory ammo for the time being. I think I'd rather start cheaper and throw them out when I'm ready for an upgrade.
 
I had a hard time convincing myself that the Wilson Ultimate was a good idea at $170 but now I just found out I need shell holders for it as well for yet another $25. Not much but geez. It's making me feel like I should start with the Forster... Honestly I don't think I can justify $45 for shell holders that I can get for $7... I'm just trying to beat factory ammo for the time being. I think I'd rather start cheaper and throw them out when I'm ready for an upgrade.

Most start with a kit and add to it. Many of my reload friends and I have upgraded most of the equipment we started with and sold the original on Craig's List or like me given it to my son. Spending the $ for the top equipment to start means you only spend once, start with the other and you are guaranteed an upgrade as you learn what is needed and discover there is much more precise tools out there. Good luck
 
Most start with a kit and add to it. Many of my reload friends and I have upgraded most of the equipment we started with and sold the original on Craig's List or like me given it to my son. Spending the $ for the top equipment to start means you only spend once, start with the other and you are guaranteed an upgrade as you learn what is needed and discover there is much more precise tools out there. Good luck

that upgrading deal is the reason I always recommend starting out with the forster coax press, One day you will wish you had.

Reloading is a journey. Start with the basics. Reloading is quite simple. until you have a real understanding of those basics I would not invest in a lot of expensive equipment. There are lots of directions to go in the pursuit of perfection. buy the reloading manuals for the bullets you chose to use and read them. As you master the basics you can start to build on that knowledge.

You can take this journey as far as you like. It is addicting.
 
Saving money reloading is what you tell your wife. You can shoot a lot more but you never save money at it!
 
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