rebarreling a mauser

There are many reasons not to dump money into a Mauser. You would be ahead with a custom remington 700 clone for available parts to upgrade. Everything you can dream up is available for them..... That is the conventional wisdom.

On the other hand this hobby is for fun and you should do what you like. That's what I did.

It started as 1941 German 98 from pawn shop. The only thing left is the action and bolt. Everything else is custom. The action was trued and tuned up with a magazine block to allow 3" oal
-Bartlein barrel in .260 Remington
-Fully bedded Bell and Carlson Medalist stock
-Custom bolt knob
-Ken Farrell 20 moa base
-Atlas bipod
-Silencerco ASR brake
-Silencerco Chimera
-SWFA 3-15 scope

It is a true sub half moa shooter with 140 ELDMs. I enjoy the heck out of it, mostly because it is so different than the standard 700 clone.

The attached picture is the prize money from a thousand yard steel
20230422_141106.jpg
match last spring. The money was nice, beating 30 guys shooting $5,000 rifles was priceless.
 
I had a passing idea of rebarreling my 98 commericial mauser but with a 3.400" magbox it's a bit of an oddball. Since I got a 7mm RM recently I really didn't know what the heck to do with the the rifle. And then it hit me I've been considering a 22-250 again. I thought I'd get a fast twist barrel to quick change with my 260 AI. I think I might be better off just making my mauser a fast twist 22-250. I just checked and the rifle fed some dummy 22-250 rounds I had laying around. No mods were needed.
 
I forsee no issues with your desired conversion assuming you'll be using the original bottom metal, but cartridge feeding issues are common and may require a good GS to help you sort them out. McGowen can supply you with a pre-fit custom barrel or you can send them your rifle and they'll send you back a very nicely finished package. There are others that offer similar services and do very good work. I'm a do-it-yourselfer Mauser hobbyist, I use McGowen to spin a barrel to my spec and have not been disappointed yet - 4 project rifles with their barrels that shoot 1/2" groups with reloads. I appreciate their work and customer service. Hopefully the other Mauser loonies will find this thread and chime in.
Since the 1950s, 6os and 70s so many 98 Mauaers have been rebarreld and make a great addition to your collection. I rebarreld many. The proper actions work great. I still use my 338 win mag. With a federal barrel. They used to be very inexpensive and really nice wood stocks. Accuracy is very good. Mauser are now pretty expensive. Lots of fun to build on.
 
I have 2 98's custom built rifles. First is in 22-250 with i think a shilian pensil barrel that i made a 1002 yard kill on a parriedog shooting hand loads. Second has a shaw 1 1/4" barrel that is 26 inches long ( barrel alone weighs 9pounds ) in 6.5 creedmoor.
 
You've got a large ring 98, I can't really make out the crest but some of the finest rifles ever made have been 98 mausers, including many rounds intended for the harvesting of the biggest game animals on the planet, the long range crowd shy's away from them, but for your plan it should be fine, you need to verify its origin as some manufacturers have questionable heat treat, 10 or 12 years ago I decided to quit spending money on every new latest and greatest thing to come along and just spend my time and money on hunting while I still have a few goid years left, if I were to start a new build to finish my hunting needs, I'd build whatever I choose on a mauser, likely a 2506 and a 338 win and maybe a 223 on a mini mauser,
You've got a large ring 98, I can't really make out the crest but some of the finest rifles ever made have been 98 mausers, including many rounds intended for the harvesting of the biggest game animals on the planet, the long range crowd shy's away from them, but for your plan it should be fine, you need to verify its origin as some manufacturers have questionable heat treat, 10 or 12 years ago I decided to quit spending money on every new latest and greatest thing to come along and just spend my time and money on hunting while I still have a few goid years left, if I were to start a new build to finish my hunting needs, I'd build whatever I choose on a mauser, likely a 2506 and a 338 win and maybe a 223 on a mini mauser,
Still waiting on my Steyr Mauser in 358 norma
 
I was gifted a 1937 98 from an Uncle. It was in 8mm-06, but I didn't want that caliber. Brownells sells short chambered barrels in a handful of long action calibers. I chose 6.5 Swede. I had a local smith install it and finish the chamber. Its in the white, so Cerakote is a good idea. Anyway, thing shoots great. Working on load development this winter.

 
I've always had a Mauser of some kind in my arsenal for the last 55 years. most were customs of some sort and yes I spent a large fortune , but they are like a bottle of aged Bourbon ,smooth, strong, and make me smile . The old J.C. Higgins are great ( (pure FN ) . The Interarms Mark X are a great and later became the Charles Daly with a few minor changes and they made a true left hand action. I built a lefty 25-06 for my son for his collage graduation . Remington ended up with Charles Daly and came out with the model 798 , but didn't make the lefty version. I've used the Parker Hale as well ,But I was told they are a cast action instead of forged no issues. The G 33-40 was the best of the military versions. I was told that they were made for the German SS troops . They seem to bring a lot more money. It's like building a model A into a street rod . How much do you want to spend , but in the end you will have a one of a kind rifle to drool over every time you shoot it.
 
I've received an old mauser in 7 x 57 which is a good round but I'm covered in that area . I'm thinking about rebarrelling it to a 220 swift because I've always wanted one, is there any issues with this idea?
and if not what is a good recommendation for a barrel maker?
can't beat benchmark. they made their reputation in 22 cal in national and international competition!
 
^^^^ what joe sez it true.....Commercial mausers are different that military conversions.....
I would say that for sure there a difference! I use to go to gun shows and look for older 98 rifles. When I purchase one I would leave the seller with the stock. I would get the bottle metal, action, and barrel. If could leave them with the barrel I would of. 😁
 
Maybe this is a good place to ask this question & maybe not. I've searched & have come up empty handed. I have a Mauser 98 large ring that was handed down from my dad. He bought a used Wilson barrel in 6mm-284 & was told it was for a 98 large ring. Problem is the barrel threads are right at .004 bigger than the action & it won't screw on. Maybe a 1/2 a thread & then it feels like it's locked up. I've built a few rifles but always on Remington 700 actions & 1 on a Sako & hand reamed them myself. Barrel threads were never an issue. But I have never dealt with a Mauser. In saying this I was wanting to do this job myself. Kinda honoring my dad, now that he is not here anymore, & finishing a project that he was wanting to complete. Can anyone help with a solution on the threads?
 
Unless you have a lathe, you're probably out of luck. Usually the tops of the threads can be filed down while being spun in a lathe to make the proper dimension but if they are really too high (and have a flat on the top) then the thread form may have to be cut also (deepened). This requires a lathe. It's hard to judge this without having the barrel and action in hand.

Threads are threads and really can't be fixed without using a lathe with the proper tooling. If you haven't cut threads before, you will be in a steep learning curve.

:)
 
Maybe this is a good place to ask this question & maybe not. I've searched & have come up empty handed. I have a Mauser 98 large ring that was handed down from my dad. He bought a used Wilson barrel in 6mm-284 & was told it was for a 98 large ring. Problem is the barrel threads are right at .004 bigger than the action & it won't screw on. Maybe a 1/2 a thread & then it feels like it's locked up. I've built a few rifles but always on Remington 700 actions & 1 on a Sako & hand reamed them myself. Barrel threads were never an issue. But I have never dealt with a Mauser. In saying this I was wanting to do this job myself. Kinda honoring my dad, now that he is not here anymore, & finishing a project that he was wanting to complete. Can anyone help with a solution on the threads?
I am surprised by your problem....How did you measure the .004" difference...???
I do quite a few commercial Mausers including Interarms.... and have never run into this...
I am suspicious that the lead of the thread is incorrect.....
 
I am surprised by your problem....How did you measure the .004" difference...???
I do quite a few commercial Mausers including Interarms.... and have never run into this...
I am suspicious that the lead of the thread is incorrect.....
I checked it with inside thread micrometer & outside micrometer to see the difference in major & minor of threads against action versus barrel
 
Maybe this is a good place to ask this question & maybe not. I've searched & have come up empty handed. I have a Mauser 98 large ring that was handed down from my dad. He bought a used Wilson barrel in 6mm-284 & was told it was for a 98 large ring. Problem is the barrel threads are right at .004 bigger than the action & it won't screw on. Maybe a 1/2 a thread & then it feels like it's locked up. I've built a few rifles but always on Remington 700 actions & 1 on a Sako & hand reamed them myself. Barrel threads were never an issue. But I have never dealt with a Mauser. In saying this I was wanting to do this job myself. Kinda honoring my dad, now that he is not here anymore, & finishing a project that he was wanting to complete. Can anyone help with a solution on the threads?
My proven solution is using the Mauser thread die (eBay - seller is in Austraila) and tap (Brownell's - this tap works more like a bottom tap than the others I've seen) set I aquired for this purpose. I purchase prefit barrels and use the die (you can adjustable diameter) to bring the major diameter of the barrel tenon thread down to my desired fitment tolerance. Works like a charm. I also use the tap to cut the receiver threads to a consistent diameter - but I only do this when I find significant difference in the full length of the receiver threads AND I have a barrel with threads at or over 1.1" - the tap cuts to 1.1" I want a slight interference fit. Each of my many no-lathe Mauser builds shoot sub-moa with hand loads so I have no reason to pester my gunsmith to cut barrel threads or face off my receiver when I can spec the tenon depth and such when I purchase a barrel from McGowen spun to my needs, and hand fit after it arrives. Flip the die around after using the tapered cuttng side to start the cut in order to get the threads cut all the way back to the end of the barrel tenon - gently touch the barrel shoulder so you don't ding it up. Repeat until you've got the diameter you need - so obviously you need to make small adjustments so you don't over cut the threads and get a sloppy fit/poorly aligned barrel/receiver. PM me if you need more details. You also need to ensure the tenon length on the barrel is correct for the receiver - there are hand tools to correct this as well, as long as the receiver is longer in depth than the barrel tenon length - if it isn't then you will need to have the barrel tenon cut shorter and this is where you will need a gunsmith's expertise and a chamber reamer, and so you may as well have the GS do all the fitment tasks and call it a day. You may need a chamber reamer regardless. Other very experienced members can offer additional guidance. Welcome to the "Mauser Loonies" club.
 
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