Questions on Savage-style barrel nut

I use barrel nuts on Remington(1.000), Savage(1.055), Ruger(1.000) and even made one for my AR-15. I have barrels for 300WM, 300RUM, 338 EDGE, 375RUM, 416/300RUM. Nothing moves nothing is stretching.
 
I'm like you, only worst in understanding. Which is why I take situations like this to my local gunsmith. I've learned over the years what my Dad taught me... "You can't beat a man at his own game".

In the gun business, it's better to be safe/sure than cheap/injured/dead.
I should let him tell it but basically the barrel shank cannot be a bigger diameter than the threads. The large shank is 1 1/16 inch. The small I am not sure but I assume one inch. Most custom barrels come at 1.2 or 1.25 unless ordered different. SO When I rebarrel a savage I throw the nut away and use a better recoil lug and butt the full shank diameter up against the recoil lug. Gives you more meat close to the action. More meat means less vibration and whip. Thence better theoretical accuracy.Also I torque the action on at 120 ft lbs. With good moly grease on the threads. You do not want to grow one together because it galled the threads
 
The only advantage of the nut is easy headspace. Screw the barrel in on a headspace gauge and tighten the nut you are in business. Good if you are thinking about changing calibers. But I feel throw the nut away and do it conventional is better.
 
Warning! This thread is more than 5 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.
Top