One new rifle or two?

[Lightnin08]

I have a need for a new rifle and I'd like help determining if one rifle would fit my needs or two? I know I need a light weight rifle to take on mountain hunts. I also would like an additional rifle to bring to the range with one mile being my max range. Can this be the same rifle or better to get two?

Here's my situation and uses.

I currently have a Bergara HMR pro in 6.5 creedmoor that I love. I live in the South and have access to shoot 500 yards at home or up to a mile within a 3 hour drive. So I don't really have any business trying to spec out a rifle for more than a mile.

The HMR is a little heavy for a hunting rifle to carry and hike with, but works fine for deer hunting from a stand or short walks. I enjoy shooting metal targets with it, but can see how having a second range rifle would be fun. Maybe something higher powered or just different to focus more on the 800-1800 yard distances?

I have a hunt lined up next year for moose in Alaska. The guide is telling me to be ready for 300-500 yard shots. Thinking .30 cal and up? We'll be hunting from a Sherp but with some hiking up ridges being possible. I only plan on moose hunting once, so maybe I can get away with a heavier rifle for one hunt? Elk is a more normal game target for me, and that requires quite a bit more hiking and I'd want something light.

I'm younger, but I've had 3 shoulder surgeries, so unfortunately recoil does matter. I don't enjoy shooting my .300 weatherby mag without a muzzlebreak, but it's fine for hunting. Will a lightweight rifle in .30 cal or bigger be fun to shoot at the range? Or will it be necessary to have a large caliber for hunting moose, but too much recoil in a light weight rifle to enjoy target shooting up to a mile as well?

Currently I'm considering the .300 PRC, .300 WSM, .30 Nosler, .300 WM, or .33 Nosler. Or maybe something 7mm or .28 Nosler if it's meant for target or game (elk and smaller). I'm newer to this, so I appreciate any advice the community has! If you have specific recommendations, please give them. Sorry for the long post, just trying to be thorough.

 

[nealm66]

If I was in your predicament, I would probably look really hard at the 6.5-300 weatherby. It would still require a brake but might fit into the happy spot you're looking for. You can load the 156 bergers with n570 for long range. You don't be in dangerous pressure areas to get good velocity. I have the 300 prc and the 300 weatherby and to me they require a strong shoulder for numerous shots. Good luck with your search!

 

[MagnumManiac]

The first cartridge I would be looking at starts with 338…..
I am a huge fan of the 6.5, but unless you have the twist to push real heavy bullets fast, meaning 3200fps as a minimum for 140/142g class of bullet, or a 150/156g class at 3000fps then it may not have the punch at 400-500.
The 338WM has all the punch necessary at those ranges with extra to boot.
The 338EDGE is a fine cartridge too, mine was excellent with 285g bullets.
A 33 Nosler will also do all you want.
I think the 7's, 30's and 33's will do a better job on a paid hunt over a 6.5, unless you figure in either a 26 Nosler or 6.5-300 Weatherby.
I know that no mention was made of bullets, but I would steer towards a mono, maybe a Barnes TTSX/LRX bullet or a Hammer Hunter.

Cheers.

 

[northhunter]

I know I'm probably going to get a lot of flack for this, but a 6.5 prc would be a fun 1 mile range gun apparently. These guys in this video did it a couple times. I'll never shoot mine a mile, but I did load some hammer bullets to have 1500lbs of energy at 500 yards. I'll use it for moose, but I'll also never shoot 500 yards

 

[Lightnin08]

And just to be clear, I'm not saying I'm planning to use my 6.5 for moose hunting. I'm not sure I'd even try it on an elk (especially if I have something bigger). Just giving a starting point for what I already have to prevent overlap in cartridges.

 

[nealm66]

I think the problem is trying to have a lighter gun for moose and long range target with a bad shoulder. I know shooting a lighter 300 weatherby even with a brake wouldn't be my first choice and going bigger wouldn't help things. Probably have to get 2 rifles dedicated for both but I've shot my 6.5-300 enough to say it might fit but it's a thin line

 

[Clem Bronkoski]

IMO I am wondering what kind of guide can't get you closer than 300 yards on a moose hunt let alone 500 yards. I honestly don't know what the percentages are but the vast majority of "hunters" would be hard pressed to make a 300 yard shot - even on an animal the size of a Yukon moose.
Not any of you guys!!!!!
But be that as it may your shoulder seems to be the limiting factor here. But here's a thought. You said this is likely your only moose hunt so.. get yourself a 300 WM or WSM and then talk to a gunsmith that would shorten the stock (if needed) and install a good recoil absorbing recoil pad or better yet, a piston recoiling system inside the stock like those in some shotguns. I put a link below but maybe you can find something similar in the US.

Recoil Systems

Recoil Systems design and manufacture various custom damping and comfort mods for shotguns, using the most advanced materials available. These add-ons greatly reduce the impact and discomfort that unabated recoil can cause.

www.recoilsystems.com

 

[MagnumManiac]

I have also had 2 surgeries on my right shoulder, rotator cuff repair and removal of the A/C joint completely….not a nice surgery to say the least.
After all the rehab, it took me quite some time to shoot my lightweight Kimber in 300WM. I could shoot my heavy 300's without issue, but that light rifles recoil pulse was more than my shoulder likes.
Once that felt comfortable I then moved on to my 338's and then my 375 Weatherby and big bores like my 416RM/Rigby, 458 Lott, 500NE and 505 Gibbs.
These were a definite challenge, as the A/C joint is the stability joint for the shoulder and mine floats around like a broomstick in a bucket.
I suggest working up to something big and then the lesser recoil is hardly noticeable. I don't even notice the recoil of most of magnums, except my 338-416 Rigby Improved, without a brake it is tremendously fast recoil and my shoulder from prone can't handle even one shot from that rifles, even though it weighs 15 or so pounds. It was heavier but I changed scopes recently.
I will just say that a 6.5 will have little trouble killing moose and elk, heck, I've shot them with a 25-06 without issue.
If recoil is that painful then you need to weigh up your choices.
Also I don't like the idea of a rifle for 2 disciplines, they really need to be dedicated for each purpose…sure you CAN shoot LR with a lightweight rifle, I do, but you must understand the limitations and which scope you use plays a huge role in this.

Cheers.

 

[Holycity73]

1. Get a rifle system you can depend on that's tailored to you and your needs. LOP, cheek height, recoil pad, eye relief, trigger etc.
2. Get a cart you can depend on. 300 prc, wm or wsm are just fine. Even better if you roll your own.
3. Have a brake installed if not already on there.
4. Shoot it. Shoot it. Shoot it. Shoot it some more.
5. Go kill your moose.
K. I. S. S.

 

[BrentM]

I run a switch barrel rifle so I can swap barrels and run different cartridges to fit my needs. So basically I have 1 rifle and multiple barrels and bolt heads. My rifle is 8lbs 14ounces with a folding chassis and 7" suppressor. It's primary purpose is hunting but I have zero issue taking it to a range or comp. For PRS I'll run a lighter recoiling cartridge and remove the can. For NRL hunter, I'll run my rig as is and preferred 6.5 PRC cartridge. For all summer shooting and training, 223 with 7 twist barrel running heavies.

 

[257WTBY]

Elk and Moose for me start with .33. I own several 33 cals but my tried and true favorite is my 340 WTBY. I have one built off a SS rem 700 action by Hi-Tek Customs weighs right at 9lbs with 5X25 Zeiss it has a brake I took it off for one shot to see "how bad it was" put it back on and have never shot again without it. Id say with the brake on it may kick a little more than a 270 WIN but hits like a freight train.

I made the switch to Hammer bullets a while back and man 3 for 3 bang flop on elk longest shot being just over 500 yards. I have two loads built 223 gr HH and 175 gr HH I could honestly use either they are both just as accurate as the other but for my rifle and the game I hunt to chose one it would be the 223 GR Hamer Hunter.

Im not saying 340 is your answer its ultimately your choice. The other thing I would consider is you said you are going to possibly continue using the rifle for elk. Dont get me wrong both my wife and daughters have killed several elk with 25-06 with that being said I was watching thru my scope as the bullet hit "just in case". The calibers and bullet choices now days are immense and sometimes hard to pick. I will say this about the 340 round and me, I shot my first elk with 340 in 1982 and so far Ive never had to shoot one twice. Ive changed guns along the way just not caliber

 

[RH300UM]

I've had shoulder surgeries also. My pick is a 338. Mine is a 338 RBH (338 nm improved). Weight is 10.5 lbs. With 260 hammers at 3042 fps it drops elk like nothing else. I have no doubts it'll do the same on a moose. I also guide in Alaska and have seen a fair number of moose drop. Be prepared for the close shot also.

 

[Buckys]

If I were in your boots, I would try to figure out how much recoil I can handle (shoot every gun I could, my own and those of my friends) and choose a heavier-than-lightweight rifle in the calibers recommended above that fit that constraint. And then do whatever is necessary to be physically ready to carry that weight in Alaska.

 

[25WSM]

Get any 30 cal mag you want and put a Terminator T3 brake on it. A customer got one of these for his 300Rum i built him. It weighs 8 pounds with the scope and we are shooting 230 bergers in it. Needless to say it beat you up when you shot it. This gun literally kicks like a Creed now. Maybe even a 243. Terminators are definitely effective brakes. Ive been building custom rifles for 30 yrs and i was shocked at how good it worked. Im sure there are other brakes just as good but I haven't seen one yet. Ive tried just about all of them.
Shep