Bought the M 223 optic. The elevation turret has yardages on it. 1-600 yards. Bore sighted it. Moved the cap too my 100 yard zero on the turret. Will only turn too 300 yards before it's maxed out. Talk about a bummer. Without a 20 moa base. It's useless on my 700 .223.
Nikon M 223 problem! any suggestions
- Thread starter 6X47
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FearNoWind
Well-Known Member
Depending on which version you have, the Nikon M223 should provide you with something between 100 and 40 MOA of max. internal adjustment. You shouldn't need more than about 10 MOA of "up" for the .223 at 600 yards. That's only 50% of what should be available from horizontal cross hair middle zero.
I don't own a Nikon but their specs. indicate their turrets are in 1/4 inch divisions. From what I read their "rapid action" model (which appears to be designed to compliment the AR15 style rifle) is set for yards (in what appears to be 50 yard increments out to 600 yards). Is that what you ordered?
From your description it looks like the turret zero adjustment may need to be re-set.
I don't own a Nikon but their specs. indicate their turrets are in 1/4 inch divisions. From what I read their "rapid action" model (which appears to be designed to compliment the AR15 style rifle) is set for yards (in what appears to be 50 yard increments out to 600 yards). Is that what you ordered?
From your description it looks like the turret zero adjustment may need to be re-set.
question is how many MOA do you have down?
That will tell if a base problem or a scope problem.
That will tell if a base problem or a scope problem.
You misunderstood what I wrote. I bore sighted it. Pulled the cap up too put it back too (100) which is the zero for this turret. Pushed it back down. Attempted too turn it too 600. And it will only go too the 300 yard mark and that's all she's got. It took 2.5 revolutions of up too bore sight with is odd. Base and rings are good.
Browninglover1
Well-Known Member
See how many turns of the turret you can get down. If it goes down a bunch of revolutions then you'll know you have a problem somewhere in your bases and rings. Also did you actually fire the rifle to make sure your bore site was accurate and you're on paper?
I'm not sure which M-223 scope you have but let's assume it's the 4-16 model. Put the scope at mechanical zero. That scope has 40 MOA of internal adjustment or 160 clicks. Turn it all the way up or down, then count 80 clicks, you are now in the middle. Start making adjustment's from that point. I wouldn't do anything with the scope after that until I put a shot on paper. Then I make my finer adjustments and when I'm happy with my 100 yard zero I lift the turret up and turn it to 100 and push it down to lock it in place. See if that doesn't work for you6x47.
FearNoWind
Well-Known Member
As it might apply to an ordinary scope:
Assuming you centered the reticle with an equal number of turns between extremes, you started at the center point. When you bore sighted at 100 you turned the turret to accommodate any need for realigning the reticle; up/down/left/right. That means that your turret travel was compromised by as many turns at it took to bring the reticle on target. It would appear that, in one direction or the other, the turret has insufficient adjustment and it stops at the end of the allowable travel. I suspect that you didn't have the mechanical center adjusted when you started adjusting the scope.
Based on what I've read, the entire range of adjustment requires less than one full rotation of the turret.
While I believe "Bart" has provided an excellent step by step routine that should work nicely, if you can't work it out the only thing I can suggest is to call Nikon customer service and see what they can do to clear things up.
If you do that I do hope you will share what you learn from this experience with this forum. Most of us, too, are still learning.
Assuming you centered the reticle with an equal number of turns between extremes, you started at the center point. When you bore sighted at 100 you turned the turret to accommodate any need for realigning the reticle; up/down/left/right. That means that your turret travel was compromised by as many turns at it took to bring the reticle on target. It would appear that, in one direction or the other, the turret has insufficient adjustment and it stops at the end of the allowable travel. I suspect that you didn't have the mechanical center adjusted when you started adjusting the scope.
Based on what I've read, the entire range of adjustment requires less than one full rotation of the turret.
While I believe "Bart" has provided an excellent step by step routine that should work nicely, if you can't work it out the only thing I can suggest is to call Nikon customer service and see what they can do to clear things up.
If you do that I do hope you will share what you learn from this experience with this forum. Most of us, too, are still learning.
lloydsmale
Well-Known Member
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your problem probably is your trusting your bore sighter. take it out and shoot it and zero it at a 100 and see what happens. Scopes are mounted high on ars and bore sighting usually isn't close.
Bummer! Hope it get fixed right away. Cheers!
Just so I do not misconstrue your post, the rifle is Remington 700 in .223 and not an AR platform, right?
Sounds like an excellent plan, good luck and happy safe shooting/hunting. Cheers!
bruce_ventura
Well-Known Member
It sounds as though the problem is the barrel being installed crooked in the receiver, and/or the barrel is bent. Both are common in production rifles. Barrel vibration or base misalignment could also be the problem, but less likely. Mention this when you send the receiver to Benchmark. They may be able to rethread the receiver or at least cut a true face.
