Need help and suggestions for moa rail and rings Current setup wont work

What Gone Ballistic has said above. The one piece rail will give you more options for the ring placement with your "short barrel" scope tube. Every 50mm scope I have mounted to 20 MOA rails, has been with low rings. +1 on the TPS rings. Great rings for the price.
 
Definitely looks like you need to go with a rail. I think you would need medium rings with the 50mm objective. I like the Warne Mountain Tech rails and rings. They're not too heavy. Otherwise, EGW makes rails for just about anything and then you can pick your rings.
 
I have the same v4 6-24x50 scope and i used to have a 4-16x44. I had the same issue mounting the 4-16 scope on a light weight 270 I was setting up for the mountains. I used a set of Tally low rings, but I had to file the corner off of the rear base of the ring so that the scope could sit far enough forward. My rings were 0 moa but I know tally makes a 20 moa set that might work with the same slight modification. I'll pull out those rings and take a pic to show you the modification
 
That should work out just fine. As was stated earlier on this thread ......be careful of how close the power ring is to the ring band. Too close and it could make for a stiff power adjuster ring, that then could damage the internals of the scope from too tight tolerances .
 
I would scrap this set up. It is so 70s 80s ,very limited for long range. could you tell what cal the gun is and how far you want to shoot this gun. If you are really going to shoot to another zip code ,the scope needs to be higher . give more info on the gun and what you want to do with it .
Why should the scope sit higher for long range? How is this 70s 80s?
 
Also, I've never heard anyone say you need the scope higher off the bore for long range shooting???...every rifle mfgr. I've ever read anything on the topic says to make it as close to the bore as possible. Don't use a 20 MOA rail/mount unless you really need it to get out there. If you do go that route make sure your reticle can run down low enough to be zero'd at 100 yds, I've seen scopes that wouldn't. In hunting situations you're more likely to shoot closer than 500 yds than more that 1000.
 
Surprised this hasn't been mentioned yet...You can get Leopold reverse scope ring mounts (bases) that will move your rings back about a 3/8-1/2 inch and that should solve your problems.
The OP said the scope needs to go forward 1/2", as well as the rings needing to be closer together.
 
If you move the front ring back by placing it in a reverse base mount it wont impinge on the bell of the scope, which as I understand it is the problem. He has room between the Bell and the turret, just no more room forward. I've had the exact same problem before on shorty Leupold on a short action browning rifle. He can also use the "reverse" ring in the rear to move that ring forward allowing the scope to move forward. What happens is your mounts might move over the action a bit but that doesn't usually impact chambering or extraction. Essentially, you reduce the distance between rings and move them more toward the turrets, allowing the scope more forward movement.
 
I just bought a new Zeiss V4 6-24x50 scope and Hawkins LR Hybrid rings. They were supposed to go on my Rem 700. The rings will not allow my scope to sit properly as the taper to the bell area is to fat. (Photos attached)
I would like the scope to sit lower if possible. I liked the idea of the 25moa rings but they will not work.

Does anyone have any suggestions on what you would do in this situation? 20 moa Rail with lower rings? Does someone build a two piece 20 moa pic. rail for the Rem 700 LA?

I spoke with Hawkins and where I bought the rings and they both said I need to change rings and go to a rail or change the scope.

I want to keep the scope.
I could use some advice on where I should go with my setup. I want it as light as possible within reason/price.
 
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