neck turning tool ?

Sinclair makes a case-chucking tool to hold the brass while you spin it in a battery powered drill. Very little effort involved. Just hold the neck turning cutter tool in your offhand while you spin the brass with the drill motor. Use plenty of lube - STP works great - just a drop for each case neck. Its so quick you may have to take a break every so often so it doesn't get too hot! If you regulate your speed and how fast you feed the case onto the cutter, there is virtually no mark/ring, etc. on the case neck.
 
GLTaylor said:
Sinclair makes a case-chucking tool to hold the brass while you spin it in a battery powered drill. Very little effort involved. Just hold the neck turning cutter tool in your offhand while you spin the brass with the drill motor. Use plenty of lube - STP works great - just a drop for each case neck. Its so quick you may have to take a break every so often so it doesn't get too hot! If you regulate your speed and how fast you feed the case onto the cutter, there is virtually no mark/ring, etc. on the case neck.
Click to expand...
I have this. I actually just chuck the case in the drill and run it. The mandrel gets hot like you said. Clean and lube it with 1 shot and it works well
 
I know I have already put my 2 cents worth in here but I am going to have to amend something. I have neck turned and neck reamed side by side. I've done some real world tests and experimentation. I have found that the neck turning is sub standard to me. it also stresses the brass in a way that shortens life even if you anneal. I have neck turned and lost too much brass. I have neck reamed and it has been far superior. that is all I am going to say for now. agree or disagree. I do not care. later Y'all.
 
Neck reaming vs turning has been debated to death and many don't understand the intent. One was developed to remove donuts and the other was to make thickness even around the circumference. Those who do this generally turn fall into 2 categories, those with tight chambers and blue printed and those who are only cleaning up the variation in neck thickness for a more uniform neck and attempting to center up the neck to bore line some. Unless you have really crappy brass or a tight chamber the neck turning process is likely not going to net much if anything. If you only skim the neck you may see slightly better concentricity but that is debatable as well. If you mandrel expand, I am thinking neck turning is a waste of time. I just ordered some new ADG brass I will run without any turning to compare to the gunwerks brass that is turned. My guess, I will see no difference.
 
BrentM said:
Neck reaming vs turning has been debated to death and many don't understand the intent. One was developed to remove donuts and the other was to make thickness even around the circumference. Those who do this generally turn fall into 2 categories, those with tight chambers and blue printed and those who are only cleaning up the variation in neck thickness for a more uniform neck and attempting to center up the neck to bore line some. Unless you have really crappy brass or a tight chamber the neck turning process is likely not going to net much if anything. If you only skim the neck you may see slightly better concentricity but that is debatable as well. If you mandrel expand, I am thinking neck turning is a waste of time. I just ordered some new ADG brass I will run without any turning to compare to the gunwerks brass that is turned. My guess, I will see no difference.
Click to expand...
Post your finds please, I'm curious.....
I neck turn for consistency in neck thickness and donuts in the brass. It don't matter if it's turned brass or not......when I tested brass with gage pins the inside of the neck at the shoulder/neck junction has tightness. I want that gage pin to have a consistent feel of pressure from case mouth all the way in, not to slip in easily and then hit a wall or toughness at the neck/shoulder junction.
 
IHFarmer07 said:
Post your finds please, I'm curious.....
I neck turn for consistency in neck thickness and donuts in the brass. It don't matter if it's turned brass or not......when I tested brass with gage pins the inside of the neck at the shoulder/neck junction has tightness. I want that gage pin to have a consistent feel of pressure from case mouth all the way in, not to slip in easily and then hit a wall or toughness at the neck/shoulder junction.
Click to expand...
I do the same but found I don't have the donut issues with mandrel expanding and when a bullets bearing surface is below the junction. I thought about reaming my 6.5-284 brass to but mandrel expanded and then cut the base of the neck again. At 14 reloads the pockets loosened up so my experiment was over.
 
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