I'm in the market for a neck turning tool, Hornaday or RCBS is what I'm considering Are they ok, what works best for you. Don't want to spend a fortune. Hornaday looks good, but I don't know how good it is. Please help me make a good choice.
neck turning tool ?
- Thread starter foul bore
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No experience with Hornady or RCBS. Sinclair works very well.
I have the Forester and it works well also
Axl
Well-Known Member
I have the Hornady, have done a few hundred rounds on it works fine. I only turn for tight neck chambered rifles though.
21st century neck turning tool for me.
tnek13
Well-Known Member
K+M Precision check their site
SilverbulletMAG
Well-Known Member
358 WCF
Active Member
I used to use K&M back when I turned necks. I have brand new K&M in caliber(s) of your choice. Still unpacking boxes from a long time ago, but saw these the other day. It's new/old stock from a long defunct gunshop. Not out to get rich, just passing along a savings. Pricing will be what they cost 25-30 years ago. More details if you're interested. I have to go somewhere now.
Hornady is what I have I chose it because it is more like a mini lathe with the handheld tools I do not see how I person can hold the case steady enough I have use the Hornaday machine for at least two years or so never had a problem I love it
horse killer
Well-Known Member
PMA
I've reading about turning necks and decided it was not worth the time or the cost of the tool...
BUT you rekindled my thought process with your comment "only turn for tight neck chambered..."
How do you know...what are the indicators...that i need to turn the necks?
After you hear what the rifle details are I'm sure everyone will tell me I need to turn necks...
Savage Axis build that the only Savage parts left are the receiver, firing pin, bolt head and associated little parts. The most important part is the Criterion barrel chambered in 6.5-06 Match...then when you hear I've made brass out of 270 Hornady brass. I also have 50 cases made out of 25-06 Harnady brass...for a total of 100 cases. I keep them separated but really have not seen any real difference between the two...
Well the easiest way to tell if you need to turn necks or not, is if you have the reamer print that your chamber was cut with, or know the neck diameter of your chamber. General rule of thumb is 0.004-0.006 of clearance between a loaded round and your chamber. So just to make things simple, say you have a 0.300 neck diameter in your chamber, you want loaded rounds to have a neck diameter between 0.294-0.296 for proper clearance.
If you don't know your neck diameter of your chamber for sure, then you'll have to load a round and try to chamber it. I suggest loading a minimum powder charge while doing this step. Also make sure your chamber is clean and your brass too. If the cartridge chambers, then you know you have at least some clearance. Fire the round, measure the outside diameter of your fired case neck. If it's 0.300 and your loaded ammo is 0.298, then I'd start by removing 0.002 from your outside case neck diameter. If you have 0.004 or more difference from a fired case to a loaded round, then you're good to go. Now if you can't get a round to chamber, then remove 0.002 a side, or 0.004 total from the diameter of your case necks. If it fits with .004 removed, then fire it, measure it, and see where you're at.
Neck turning is not critical unless you have dangerously close clearance between the loaded rounds and chamber, or you have a tight necked chamber and have to neck turn. A lot of guys neck turn for the benefit of improving their neck wall thickness, thus improving neck tension and making for more consistent ammo. Before I ever tried neck turning or got into it, I was turned off by it and avoided it like the plague. Now that I have the Hornady neck turning tool, and I've done it, it's really not hard or bad at all.
