my first glass bedding project.

[diderr]

I just finished up my first bedding job. I chose to do my 700 with an hs precision stock. It went well I guess. I didn't end up gluing the action to the stock which is good, but some of the accuglass I used went down into the front action screw and formed threading in the pillar. All is well and the screw came out freely thank God, but I'm contemplating leaving it.

Would the threading in the stock making contact with the threading in the action pose any benefit, or should I just bore it out?

In the pic there is some air bubbles on the aluminum block, but it is smooth. Should I gut it out and start over? Mind you this was a .25moa gun before I bedded it. we will see in a couple days if I see any accuracy improvement, gun)

 

[Joel Russo]

Congratulations on attempting your first bedding job. Bedding a barreled action into a stock can be quite a chore for first timers. It takes numerous bedding jobs to find what process works for each individual.

That being said, by looking at your picture, it seems as though you were a bit light on the bedding compound. I would suggest grinding/milling the bedding out of the stock, and bedding it again. This time, I would remove the bedding block in the areas of contact, in order to allow for a conventional bed. You will also need to open up the action screw holes so that the action screw does not come into contact with anything. If they do, you will add the effects of another recoil lug...

Take a look at the picture below, I just bedded this stock, and cleaned it up on the mill. You will get an idea of what I am talking about.

 

[diderr]

Congratulations on attempting your first bedding job. Bedding a barreled action into a stock can be quite a chore for first timers. It takes numerous bedding jobs to find what process works for each individual.

That being said, by looking at your picture, it seems as though you were a bit light on the bedding compound. I would suggest grinding/milling the bedding out of the stock, and bedding it again. This time, I would remove the bedding block in the areas of contact, in order to allow for a conventional bed. You will also need to open up the action screw holes so that the action screw does not come into contact with anything. If they do, you will add the effects of another recoil lug...

Take a look at the picture below, I just bedded this stock, and cleaned it up on the mill. You will get an idea of what I am talking about.

what did you use to create the **** in the barrel channel?

 

[Joel Russo]

Carefully applied clay.

 

[Dr. Vette]

diderr,

Take a look at this thread (ignore badly liked photos first page):
Bedding Project - Sniper's Hide Forums

and this, including the video:
Stress-Free Pillar Bedding

I think you'll learn a lot about bedding that will help in your next one.

 

[Clark]

Years ago I read "Gunsmithing: Rifles by Patrick Sweeney" and it emboldened me to glass bed a rifle.
What could go wrong?

The epoxy leaked out, and got all over my pants, my chair, and the rug.
The epoxy hardened and the action was glued to the stock.
I had to break the stock into pieces to salvage the barreled action.

Since then when making pillars I have had stainless steel tubing work harden in the lathe, get hot, and squeal at me.

I have had pillar after pillar get cut too short and turn into scrap.
I had pillars not seem too long when feeding round nose dummy cartridges, and then jam between magazine and receiver when hunting with pointed cartridges.

I have had epoxy splatter onto the barrel and receiver, and when I tried to scrape it off, I scratched the bluing.

I have had epoxy never harden because I mixed the resin and catalyst at less than room temperature.

I have had epoxy never harden because the resin and catalyst were 20 years old.

I have had epoxy get on the action threads with no release agent, and I could not unscrew the screws.

I have noticed that 223s do not get any more accurate with bedding.

 

[brentc]

Different materials will aid in the success of your bedding job as well. I have found it a far easier job since getting away from the "bedding kits" like Acraglas. If you really want something easy to work with, go with something like Devcon 10110 with Kiwi Neutral as a release agent. When applying the epoxy to the stock, it's better to have a little too much than not enough.

 

[J E Custom]

Years ago I read "Gunsmithing: Rifles by Patrick Sweeney" and it emboldened me to glass bed a rifle.
What could go wrong?

The epoxy leaked out, and got all over my pants, my chair, and the rug.
The epoxy hardened and the action was glued to the stock.
I had to break the stock into pieces to salvage the barreled action.

Since then when making pillars I have had stainless steel tubing work harden in the lathe, get hot, and squeal at me.

I have had pillar after pillar get cut too short and turn into scrap.
I had pillars not seem too long when feeding round nose dummy cartridges, and then jam between magazine and receiver when hunting with pointed cartridges.

I have had epoxy splatter onto the barrel and receiver, and when I tried to scrape it off, I scratched the bluing.

I have had epoxy never harden because I mixed the resin and catalyst at less than room temperature.

I have had epoxy never harden because the resin and catalyst were 20 years old.

I have had epoxy get on the action threads with no release agent, and I could not unscrew the screws.

I have noticed that 223s do not get any more accurate with bedding.

**** !! You Need to take up bow hunting.

Just Kidding, All of these things can be avoided by using the right materials and pre planning
the bedding job.

Not to say that this has not happened to any of us, But it is not that hard.

When I started out I used Accu- glass and it was not the most forgiving so I switched to accu-
glass Gel. It worked better (Did not run as bad).

I also used bedding screws,and they were problematic so I started using spring clamps and did
not have to worry about stuck screws.

It does take a little time to perfect how it is done but as long as you don't skip a step it is easy
and the results allways improve the performance.

So Clean the stock, install the pillars, check the barreled action to stock fit,apply any good release
agent (I like stock wax), mix a slow reacting bedding compound that takes about 4 hours to
cure and has about 30 min to 1 hour working time (I have been using Steel Bed from Brownells
with very good results), Mask of all ares of the stock on the outside that you don't wont bedding
to get on,apply a generous amount of bedding compound to the areas to be bedded, insert the barreled action carefully using guide screws that are to be removed before bedding has completely
cured and let it set .

Remove any excess bedding on the outside possible without disturbing the bedding under the action.
(This makes cleanup easy)

After it has cured remove the barreled action and clean up all excess bedding and make sure that the pillars are clean and do not touch the sides of the action screws. (You may have to drill them a little
larger).

I recomend not shooting the rifle for several days to allow the compound to reach it's full strength.

You are done. Bada Bing, Bada Boom.

J E CUSTOM