My first build

[ColoradoOverWatch]

Okay, so I have lurked here for over a year trying to figure out what to build. Figure I will jump in and see if I can build a LR gun I can be pleased with. Still have not decided if I am going the .308 or 300 WM. Would like to shoot game out to 500 and target out to 1k

Action – figure I would go the Savage route. However all the long actions that I have been looking at seem to have about a ¼ - ½ inch plan when the bolt is all the way back
The guy's behind the counter look at me when I comment on how much play there is in the action. Am I being too picky?? Found two Savages under $450 as my base gun.
11FYPX3 - $300 currently barreled for a 243
111FCXP - $450 currently barreled for a 30-06

Was thinking on the Savage 111FCNS or ordering a Stevens 200.

I also have access to a Remington 770 that my dad bought and just hates. It has a yard of play in the action. Not sure if there is any mods that can be done to tighten it up.

Any help in spending my money would be appreciated. OH.. if my wife asks… this gun is for her…

 

[Lyons7STW]

What kinda game at 500? 308 on deer ok, on elk I prefer the 300 mag.
I have no expeirience with Savage. I know they are better now but still wom't go there. Thats just me no disrespect to them or your choices. I may be hard headed.
I reload for my shootin partners 770 also a 300 mag. It shoots well. We did have to stop a couple grains shy of max load in the book. Thr bolt was getting sticky. Had to let it cool a bit to eject easily.

 

[Lyons7STW]

Oh and the 30-06 is not a mag bolt faceI believe. so that would have to be corrected to go 300 win mag. I hear the savages are easy to work on and get parts for so this may be a non issue.

 

[ColoradoOverWatch]

Good point on the bolt face. any thoughts on the amount of Play in the bolt?

 

[Jake Levi]

I am in almost the exact situation, looking for something to hunt with a 5-600 yards and to shoot to a 1,000. I started off, have been, looking at the 700 REM, but after a week of reading here have been looking at the Savage.

On their website they have a beauty, the Item # 19468 in a .338 Lapua, SS, accu trigger, accustock, 26" barrel, for $1250 MSLP. There is a .338 Win Mag, 24" barrel, accu trigger, accu stock at $801 MSLP.

Several others for less. I am also considering a local Savage .308 w/scope, synthetic stock and 22" barrel at $395, so I can see realistically having a deer rifle, and a good LR target/elk gun for under $1500. I dont see how to do it with a Rem 700.

And my local gun smith who I highly respect says the Savage is a far better line to have and shoot, and to adjust when and if you want to then the Rem.

So, I think the best solution for me is the 2 Savages, one for a deer rifle and the LR for elk and target shooting. At highest price its $1600. For a .338 Lapua and a .308
or a .300 Win.

This is what I have come to reading all that I can here and talking with local folks that I respect.

 

[Lyons7STW]

When the bolt is in the open position and fully rearward a small amount of play is a non issue and difficult to avoid if you want the bolt to slide freely. As long as the bolt faces is square and true when the bolt cams shut it should be ok.

Disclaimer: I am not a gun smith. I have been around some accurate rifles and was a machinist for several years so I have a basic understanding of this stuff.

 

[Jake Levi]

I am not a gunsmith either but have had several 06s and this has been the case with them, my next magnum will be my first. So take this for what it is worth, I hope some others chime in on this.

 

[Recon$$]

I just recently purchased a savage and my bolt has some play to it. If I had to guess, i'd say that's how the savage actions are. Love the gun, I wouldn't hesitate to use a savage action.

 

[Jake Levi]

I was at my gunsmiths today, Ron Heppler of Mio, Mi, he said all Savages appear to be a bit loose when fully open but close up tight if they are as supposed to be, he said its one of the best machined rifles that he has seen over the past twenty years, high praise from a gunsmith who gets as much work as he does, mostly family hunting guns, this is a small country town where most everyone wants a nice rack but mostly wants to fill their freezers. We do get a huge amount of down staters up here for deer and bear season. So he gets the fancy deer rifles too.

 

[ColoradoOverWatch]

Okay, so I guess I am just a bit picky and a little play in the action when fully open is not to be too concerned with.
So know to decided on which cal. I also found another Savage 111 in a 7mm rem mag. 308 or 300 win mag. Or 30-06 I currently have at least one in each cal.
This build will be primarily for LR target but would like the option for game as well (deer & elk). My longest harvest was an elk at 320 yards with a 30-06. Have not heard many people shooting 30-06 as a target round though. Thought about trying out an F class shoot to.

 

[ColoradoOverWatch]

also, any barrel recomendations?? length? twist rate? brand?

 

[backwoods83]

Free play in a savage action is normal, its not a 1 piece bolt. As for the 111 action it will hold anything a rem 700 will and do it safer as the floating bolt head can act as an additional pressure point if the lugs were to let go, but I haven't seen that happen. Get the cheapest long action you can find, bolt heads are 20 bucks and can be changed in 10 minutes. I would go for the 300wm with a 26-28" 10 twist Brux barrel with a Vias break, if its not an accutrigger early 111 the Rifle Basixx is a **** good trigger for under a 100 bucks, I use badger ordinance or callahan recoil lugs, stockys, bell and carlson, hs and stockade make some nice stocks. As for barrel contour i'd go with a sendero contour.

 

[Chase723]

Jerry Teo has uploaded a couple very detailed build documentaries. Just search for "long range hunting rifle on a budget" in google and it should take you right to them. Specifically, they are done on Savage/Stevens actions. He swears by them. He outlines in the builds everything as far as cost conservation, utility, and performance is concerned. They really are fantastic explanations on how to go about building a long range rig...I followed them for a 338 RUM build and it turned out amazing. 1/2 MOA rifle all day everyday for ~$850. Including trigger, muzzle brake, and fluted bolt. Optics were extra. That being said, I ended up selling the rifle because I honestly built TOO NICE of a gun. It had a beautiful custom walnut stock and I hated the thought of beating the crap out of it on a hunt. I did shoot a bison with it last year. After selling it, I got a great deal on a Sendero and then followed the principles I learned from my stevens build to make that thing a tack driver. 1/3 MOA at 200 yds as of this last weekend when I got to sight it in...Remington builds are a little more expensive, however there are advantages to both. As for the laxity in your action, don't worry about it whatsoever. That's by design and just gives the bolt clearance as you rack it back and forth. Once locked up it is extremely strong. One of the inherent advantages in the Stevens/Savage bolts is the fact that it is two pieces and has a floating bolt head ensuring equal contact on the bolt locking lugs as it locks up in the chamber. You would have to have a 700 blueprinted to do the same thing, which costs a couple hundred bucks.

Hope this helps!

 

[Recon$$]

I would go the 300 route and personally I would go 26" 1:10 and buy a top name barrel, Krieger, hart, lilja, etc... whatever you decide you like.