More reloading issues
- Thread starter dino foss
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SidecarFlip
Well-Known Member
Shortening the offending (too long) screw is a simple matter as my post #41 explains.....
Dan...Mr. Green..
That appears to be an ongoing issue with the EGW base/rail and an issue I had and corrected prior to ever firing the rifle because I pulled the base beforehand and checked not only the base to receiver relationship, but the torque of the mounting screws in relationship to the receiver itself. Installing the base to the receiver and torquing the base screws down to 40 inch pounds, I found the base screws were slightly proud to the chamber area.
I used a plug gage - 0.005 to the inside chamber bore diameter and it hung on the first screw BTW. You could do it handily with the bolt pulled and a good flashlight as well. I can't fault Savage for this because the rail as well as the muzzle brake are outsourced to EGW and I'm presuming that the screws are supplied by EGW with the bases as well.
It's an easy fix and it precludes the need to check the torque value of the base mounting screws and insure they are all evenly torqued (as a note, my front screw was loose at the outset).
A little filing of the screw shank (or careful use of the bench grinder wheel and your fingers....) removes enough metal so the screw(s) aren't proud in the receiver chamber. Of course I retoequed the screws and applied a dab of threadlocker to the threads.
There has been some talk on here and other forums about the base relationship to the receiver top. I took a steel round, the same diameter as the receiver od and referenced the underside of the rail to it and found no high spots on the inderside (of the rail) so when I remounted the rail to the receiver, no bedding was necessary, just rail to receiver and threadlocker. That may or may not be the case with all rails and receivers but mine was fine....
At this point remove the mount rai entirely from the receiver and then shorten the offending screw. Keep in mind that any of the screws only has to make one full turn of thread to thread contact in the receiver. That's it.
Removing the rail will allow you to ascertain if the rail needs bedded in relationship to the receiver, mine didn't, yours may. Don't forget the blue threadlocker on each screw thread and you'll have to resight your optic. May be a good time to lap the rings as well.
On lapping, you can buy a Wheeler lapping kit for 90 bucks or order a stick of drill rod in 30 mm od and have enough forever, for half the price of the wheeler kit but you'll have cut the drill rod and obtain lapping compound from a supplier or the auto parts store, aka: valve grinding compound. permatex makes it in a squeeze tube (valve grinding compound) or in a can (Clover lapping compound).
Always keep in mind that Savage, just like every other manufacturer (me included) contracts intrinsic parts and assemblies out. In this case Evoloution Gun Works.
Sully2
Well-Known Member
I sure hope you dont think that only 1 full turn of thread is sufficient to attain maximum holding power of a threaded fastener..??? A length of engagement as long as the root diameter of the thread is whats needed....but I always designed for thread engagement to be as much as the O.D. of the thread. ( lots easier to remember how much then)
SidecarFlip
Well-Known Member
...thats overkill.
Of course minimum acceptable engagement also necessitates proper torque values.....
To cut hairs, it all depends on thread pitch and diameter as well as class of thread fit of the fastener itself plus the material makeup. For example aluminum interlocked by thread assemblies take more engagement than stainless to alloy steel or steel to steel....
In the case of the receiver and rail with (we presume) alloy fasteners engaging the steel receiver and multiple fastemers on the rail to receiver joint (in this case 3), one full thread of engagement should be sufficient at 3 fastening points. Without measuring the wall thickness of the receiver (beacuse I don't have the gun handy and my tools are in the shop and it's locked up right now, I don't believe you can get over 2 complete revolutions of the rail screws without them being proud of the id of the receiver bore anyway.
This isn't a 50MM howitzer, it's a 338. I realize it recoils and Newton's Law always prevails but the recoil inertia is less than 2 pounds with the most heavy optic you can buy unless you stick a BORS unit on a Mark4 on the rail which is not likely.... ..... Not a lot and in reality the firearm recoils like a powcer puff, I know, I have one too. My 410 scattergun recoils harder.....
...actually something I found amazing. First time I touched it off, I was expecting to get sucker punched and it never happened. I actually fired mine from my hip in a quick pull up shot.... I missed but had no problem keeping my hands on the rifle or my balance and I'm a little person.
I could, I guess, trundle off to the shop and grab one of my tome's that explains in detail about thread engagement in relationship to pitch versus diameter versus material and classes of thread fit but it's late and frankly, I've had a long day.
For this particular application, I'll just stick with one full turn in full engagement for all three fasteners on the rail with threadlocker and properly and evenly torqued at no more than 40 inch pounds.
