bullet man
Well-Known Member
I was paying 141.00 plus shipping don't know if it's even available because of the covid buying rampage.
Loading Range Brass and expecting Precision
- Thread starter SteelBanger
- Start date
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SteelBanger
Well-Known Member
I've googled around some and can't find any LC brass in stock. I did run down to my bench and deprime around 750 cases at least half of which was LC and have them all in the wet tumbler now so that'll give me something to start working with.
aushunter1
Well-Known Member
Range brass if fine if it is once fired only.
You can tell what has been taken out if the box & fired compared to someone else's reloaded brass.
Recycle the rest.
As you say, separate by headstamp
You can tell what has been taken out if the box & fired compared to someone else's reloaded brass.
Recycle the rest.
As you say, separate by headstamp
DUSTY NOGGIN
Well-Known Member
do you have means for annealing them ???
DUSTY NOGGIN
Well-Known Member
Buy Primer Pocket Swager - Bench Tool and More | RCBS
Shopping for the Primer Pocket Swager - Bench Tool - Learn more about the latest Primer Pocket and other hunting or shooting gear at RCBS.
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or
if you run through a bucket of brass with one of these , if you set up to fit and swage a LC , all the commercial brass wont even touch it , you can almost sort all lake city out without looking at the headstamp
Patriot007
Well-Known Member
Well there's been a lot said about range brass and once fired brass. Some Good, Some bad and some well I'm still questioning. All I'm going to comment on is your lee dies. If you bought the lee ultimate die set you got 4 dies in that set. Out of that set you will want to keep the Crimp die and the Collet die. If you are loading for your AR, you will need the crimp die. Some people do not crimp for their AR's. Me, I use a light crimp, just my preference.
Now, when you acquire your Bolt rifle, in 5.56 or 223, 223 wild. You will want to have that Collet die to size the neck.
The Forster Bench Rest 223 die set comes with a Seating die and FL sizing die. They both work great with the AR and Bolt Rifle platform. I would add the Forster 223 Bump die with the set and your golden.( No Bushing, Just for bumping the shoulder back ).
With all Brass, if your shooting for accuracy, (OR NOT) you MUST anneal your Brass. For that, I would recommend the Annealeez 2.0. For $275.00 shipped to my front door, This was a game changer in all of my reloading case prep.
Just my .02 cents. https://annealeez.com/about/faqs/
Now, when you acquire your Bolt rifle, in 5.56 or 223, 223 wild. You will want to have that Collet die to size the neck.
The Forster Bench Rest 223 die set comes with a Seating die and FL sizing die. They both work great with the AR and Bolt Rifle platform. I would add the Forster 223 Bump die with the set and your golden.( No Bushing, Just for bumping the shoulder back ).
With all Brass, if your shooting for accuracy, (OR NOT) you MUST anneal your Brass. For that, I would recommend the Annealeez 2.0. For $275.00 shipped to my front door, This was a game changer in all of my reloading case prep.
Just my .02 cents. https://annealeez.com/about/faqs/
Last edited:
SteelBanger
Well-Known Member
Buy Primer Pocket Swager - Bench Tool and More | RCBS
Shopping for the Primer Pocket Swager - Bench Tool - Learn more about the latest Primer Pocket and other hunting or shooting gear at RCBS.
or
if you run through a bucket of brass with one of these , if you set up to fit and swage a LC , all the commercial brass wont even touch it , you can almost sort all lake city out without looking at the headstamp
I use this tool head in my case prep center to remove the crimps.
Buy Trim Mate Military Crimp Remover-2 And More | RCBS
Shopping for the Trim Mate Military Crimp Remover-2? Learn more about the latest Trim and other hunting or shooting gear at RCBS.
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SteelBanger
Well-Known Member
No I do not currently anneal
Patriot007
Well-Known Member
I love the RCBS Military crimp remover for the Trim Mate and the Primer pocket uniform tool. To date it has never removed to much brass from the primer pocket. BUT !!! With some brass, the Swaging tools "RCBS/Dillion" has left to much brass in the primer pocket and caused problems with seating the primers, and then I had to remove the excess
brass resulting in trashing the case. The RCBS Military crimp remover and primer pocket uniform tool solved this problem for me. We all have our preference's and this is mine.
brass resulting in trashing the case. The RCBS Military crimp remover and primer pocket uniform tool solved this problem for me. We all have our preference's and this is mine.
Well...all I can say is thank you!
Thank you for not picking it up. It's all I use in numerous rifles. Roughly 15 different chamberings.
I dont shoot any kind of competition and so far only shoot out to 600 yards. But I still like to shoot as small of a group as I can. So far sub MOA isn't real hard to achieve and smaller is quite possible.
I'm not very good at shooting paper but hold my own on steel.
This three shot group was shot at 600 yards and was a cold bore dial up with a rifle I built chambered in 6.5-06. I took the rifle right out of the truck, uncased it then dialed up the shot it.
Here is a 5 shot group at 100 from another rifle I built. 6.5x284....
I do keep the head stamp sorted and I anneal all my brass except 6.5 Grendel and 7.62x39. I have 7 AR's that I pieced together chambered in those two. My 24" 6.5 Grendel shoots range brass sub MOA at 400 yards all day long.
I do sell some when I get too much piled up in my reloading room, helps me buy more bullets and powder.
One thing I do in my rifles where I'm trying to achieve my best accuracy is go all out on case prep. I dont sort my bullets or nor weigh my cases. I have thought about it, but I'm not sure I can shoot good enough to see a difference. But I do the flash holes (at least after the first time I size the brass), brush out the necks, clean the pockets and trim all cases to the exact same length. And I anneal those cases before I size them.
One thing I dont really get...once you fire brand new brass, it becomes once fired brass! But all these guys reload it and shoot it more...
Thank you for not picking it up. It's all I use in numerous rifles. Roughly 15 different chamberings.
I dont shoot any kind of competition and so far only shoot out to 600 yards. But I still like to shoot as small of a group as I can. So far sub MOA isn't real hard to achieve and smaller is quite possible.
I'm not very good at shooting paper but hold my own on steel.
This three shot group was shot at 600 yards and was a cold bore dial up with a rifle I built chambered in 6.5-06. I took the rifle right out of the truck, uncased it then dialed up the shot it.
Here is a 5 shot group at 100 from another rifle I built. 6.5x284....
I do keep the head stamp sorted and I anneal all my brass except 6.5 Grendel and 7.62x39. I have 7 AR's that I pieced together chambered in those two. My 24" 6.5 Grendel shoots range brass sub MOA at 400 yards all day long.
I do sell some when I get too much piled up in my reloading room, helps me buy more bullets and powder.
One thing I do in my rifles where I'm trying to achieve my best accuracy is go all out on case prep. I dont sort my bullets or nor weigh my cases. I have thought about it, but I'm not sure I can shoot good enough to see a difference. But I do the flash holes (at least after the first time I size the brass), brush out the necks, clean the pockets and trim all cases to the exact same length. And I anneal those cases before I size them.
One thing I dont really get...once you fire brand new brass, it becomes once fired brass! But all these guys reload it and shoot it more...
CaptnC wrote: One thing I dont really get...once you fire brand new brass, it becomes once fired brass! But all these guys reload it and shoot it moreWell...all I can say is thank you!
Thank you for not picking it up. It's all I use in numerous rifles. Roughly 15 different chamberings.
I dont shoot any kind of competition and so far only shoot out to 600 yards. But I still like to shoot as small of a group as I can. So far sub MOA isn't real hard to achieve and smaller is quite possible.
I'm not very good at shooting paper but hold my own on steel.
View attachment 191513
This three shot group was shot at 600 yards and was a cold bore dial up with a rifle I built chambered in 6.5-06. I took the rifle right out of the truck, uncased it then dialed up the shot it.
Here is a 5 shot group at 100 from another rifle I built. 6.5x284....
View attachment 191514
I do keep the head stamp sorted and I anneal all my brass except 6.5 Grendel and 7.62x39. I have 7 AR's that I pieced together chambered in those two. My 24" 6.5 Grendel shoots range brass sub MOA at 400 yards all day long.
I do sell some when I get too much piled up in my reloading room, helps me buy more bullets and powder.
One thing I do in my rifles where I'm trying to achieve my best accuracy is go all out on case prep. I dont sort my bullets or nor weigh my cases. I have thought about it, but I'm not sure I can shoot good enough to see a difference. But I do the flash holes (at least after the first time I size the brass), brush out the necks, clean the pockets and trim all cases to the exact same length. And I anneal those cases before I size them.
One thing I dont really get...once you fire brand new brass, it becomes once fired brass! But all these guys reload it and shoot it more...
The cartridge case is a very important to building ammunition….KEY to precision. There is a lot of debate as to what should be done to prepare a case for reloading. That piece of brass that has been inaugurated into its concussive life by one person, then has a meaningful history to that one person. Many serious reloaders keep staunch written records, some, just by memory. Different brass preparation techniques work in some rifles, some don't. Picking up cases at the range means you are ready to take a chance and start from square one. The leaving of brass at the range tells me the discarder doesn't care about that brass. Probably 'cause it's near the end of its usable life. Lotta' time involved in returning that piece to square one. The least of include inspection and for me, annealing. Both time consuming. Time is money. I like to know what I've got.
I've seen post like yours several times and for certain shooting applications probably has merit!
Apparently the range I shoot at has different clientele than where you shoot. The reloaders like myself take all their brass home. When I have a case failure I'm not going to be a range slob and throw my brass on the ground for someone else to deal with. Plus I want to look at the "why it failed". Most of the time it will have 8 to 10 reloads on it...so I like to know so I can check the remainder of that batch.
I also have a scrape brass bucket so I can recycle my used brass.
99.9% of the brass that hit the ground where I shoot is weekend warriors that will buy 4 boxes of shells and burn through them in an afternoon. Much of the brass I pick up are from the actual guys shoot it.
Like this guy...custom build that looked like it was a defiance action, Nightforce scope with a can! He was flipping his brass right onto the ground.
One of my shooting buddies only shoots factory ammo in his Sako 6.5 Creedmoor and his BCA upper 6.5 Grendel.
I've seen many guys who only shoot "factory new" brass state that it takes 2 to 3 firings before the case truly fits your chamber. So my once fired is still in its infancy of life to fit the chamber.
But like I've said many times in threads like this. Because of my shooting ability I doubt I could tell the difference new brass and once fired. And I'd say there is a fair number of shooters on this web site that would fall into this category. Not that, that's a bad thing. Its takes alot of trigger time to gain the skills to shoot .3 to .2 groups.
I enjoy playing with the range pick up brass when I get home...sorting it and tossing the 308, 243, 7-08 and 5.56 that I accidentally picked up. I try to not pick those up because someone else might have a need for it.
SteelBanger
Well-Known Member
Like CaptnC said, I think it's important to consider the range where you're picking up said brass. Living in Central IL we simply don't have long ranges where dedicated reloaders spend copious amounts of time fine tuning loads for LR shooting, because most people around here aren't able to shoot long range. I luckily have a couple friends who have land so I can get out to 600y on occasion but even that is typically on their schedule and not always easy to coordinate.
My local range is full of weekend weekend warriors playing G.I. Joe with their $400 AR's. They pick up boxes of the cheapest ammo Walmart sells (well back when Walmart sold 5.56) and blast away. I only pick up other people's brass when I see it is factory new ammo out of the factory box ... and they always look surprised and ask why I want it, that's how clueless they are.
I also like to think that reloaders don't leave their brass behind, even if they know it's at the end of its useful life.
My local range is full of weekend weekend warriors playing G.I. Joe with their $400 AR's. They pick up boxes of the cheapest ammo Walmart sells (well back when Walmart sold 5.56) and blast away. I only pick up other people's brass when I see it is factory new ammo out of the factory box ... and they always look surprised and ask why I want it, that's how clueless they are.
I also like to think that reloaders don't leave their brass behind, even if they know it's at the end of its useful life.
That appears to be an "older" Remington ammo box behind the front bag he is resting the "can" on instead of the forearm. I blew the picture up and none of the corners on that box are square , they bulge a bit like it's been around/used a while for his reloads.
Anyway, I have to wonder if using the front bag like that is a new technique he uses to insure consistently precision groups.
