How lightweight can you get?

[Edd]

I would like to see the individual component weights on some of the lightweight rifles, especially those claimed to weigh less than 5 pounds.

 

[snox801]

You can get down to that weight but it's hard not to make cuts. My pack rifle is 6.5 lbs. but I wanted certain things that would weigh a bit more so I spent money elsewhere to save weight.
I have a pierce action In ti. That bolt firring pin and lug. Proof carbon 22" tube.
Now I added weight by using a manners eh5 thumbhole cause I liked it so you can shave weight with that. Also used a bit heavier scope because I wanted to be able to take game at 600 yards and pigs farther. So I added a 2.5-16 scope.
So yes you can get lite and functional for some long range but it will cost you.
I also have a 300 yards and under. It will actually reach out farther but that was not the intent and 400 would push it I bet.
I took a hows mini 6.5 Grendel and had twisted cut all the weight possible. Then topped it with the swfa ultra light at 9 ounces. Haven't Weighed it yet but it's lite.
Hold about moa at 300 with factory ammo loads coming soon.

 

[Peddler 76]

Both Weatherby and Kimber are doing it now.

 

[snox801]

You need to remember though. That most of the weight is in the barrel so you can get a light gun like a savage or kimber but they are make very short barrels pencil thin to make it happen that's giving up the FPS to a longer tube. Kinda need to decide what your goals are for.

 

[ramrod79]

260rem SS Rem Model 7 action slabbed, bolt fluted, bolt shroud turned down, bolt handle and knob skeletonize.
Wildcat composites stock with blind mag 1/2 inch decel pad.
#2 benchmark finished at 22inch short light flutes done by shank.
Tim CE Trigger set at 1.75lbs
Talley low ultra light rings lapped.
Leupold VX3 ultralight 3-9x33 cds dial.
6.5lbs total.
Was a beautiful sheep rifle, and shot 123 MK into .47" @ 200 yards shoot 1 count to ten shoot another count to ten shoot last one then it need some cooling time.
Should have never ever sold it!!
I had another M7 in a 300wsm very similar in a Mc M ultralight scoped was 7.4 scoped it was a beast to shoot loved Barnes bullets. Should have never sold it !!!
If I did it again I would do a 6.5CM shooting 143 or Berger 135 barrels threaded for breaks.

 

[snox801]

If doing short action use the magpul bottom metal it all plastic weighs about nothing.

 

[ntsqd]

Funny how the Howa Mini bottom stuff is plastic and we all want to get rid of it in favor of metal. Even though I'm trying to assemble mine as light as economically reasonable I have the dip bottom metal for it.

 

[J E Custom]

I realize that the question was "How Light" and it needs to be thought about before entering into a build like this In my opinion.

The only advantage to a light weight rifle is Weight. All other advantages go to the heavier rifle.

In a hunting situation you normally don't have a good steady rest and the light weight rifle has a bad habit of moving around and can be effected by even your heart beat.

Recoil is also a consideration unless it will be a very small cartridge, and most on this site need a much larger caliber for distance. I built a 338 RCM on a Mod 7 rem that weighted just below 6 pounds without the scope and found it to be impossible to shoot a follow up shot on running game due to muzzle rise and recoil. so I had to add a muzzle brake that weighted just shy of 1 pound. so with the added weight of the scope and muzzle brake I am now approaching 7.5 pounds. (Kind of defeated the whole reason to build a ultra light rifle).

The next downside to a ultra light rifle is the difficulty in finding an accurate load. Light weight barrels are finicky and require more time to cool between shots as mentioned.

The real puzzle to me is why go to a light rifle when a "Heavy" rifle only weighs 2 or 3 pounds more. I hunted Colorado with a 13 Pound 338 and was glad i did, especially when I was winded from climbing at High altitude and needed a steady hold for long shots.

The little 338 RCM is great and very handy, but there are two many advantages to a medium to heavy rifle to worry about 2 or 3 pounds. If you plan on hunting close where absolute accuracy Is not needed it is nice and my little 338 Is devastating on hogs.

Just the other side of building an ultra light rifle and something to think about before spending the money.

Just My opinion

J E CUSTOM

 

[nathank]

I realize that the question was "How Light" and it needs to be thought about before entering into a build like this In my opinion.

The only advantage to a light weight rifle is Weight. All other advantages go to the heavier rifle.

In a hunting situation you normally don't have a good steady rest and the light weight rifle has a bad habit of moving around and can be effected by even your heart beat.

Recoil is also a consideration unless it will be a very small cartridge, and most on this site need a much larger caliber for distance. I built a 338 RCM on a Mod 7 rem that weighted just below 6 pounds without the scope and found it to be impossible to shoot a follow up shot on running game due to muzzle rise and recoil. so I had to add a muzzle brake that weighted just shy of 1 pound. so with the added weight of the scope and muzzle brake I am now approaching 7.5 pounds. (Kind of defeated the whole reason to build a ultra light rifle).

The next downside to a ultra light rifle is the difficulty in finding an accurate load. Light weight barrels are finicky and require more time to cool between shots as mentioned.

The real puzzle to me is why go to a light rifle when a "Heavy" rifle only weighs 2 or 3 pounds more. I hunted Colorado with a 13 Pound 338 and was glad i did, especially when I was winded from climbing at High altitude and needed a steady hold for long shots.

The little 338 RCM is great and very handy, but there are two many advantages to a medium to heavy rifle to worry about 2 or 3 pounds. If you plan on hunting close where absolute accuracy Is not needed it is nice and my little 338 Is devastating on hogs.

Just the other side of building an ultra light rifle and something to think about before spending the money.

Just My opinion

J E CUSTOM

I agree to a certain extent, but i know when i was putting over 10km a day in high altitude with lots of big ups and downs every ounce on my pack mattered. I would even dread filling up water to take up to camp by the end of the day. I carried my friends rifle for a time instead of mine and noticed the 1lb difference in short time.

 

[J E Custom]

Keep in mind that you never see a light weight bench rifle or a light weight Long range hunting rifle that requires absolute accuracy for a reason. So ether you are willing to compromise on total performance/accuracy or you compromise on weight and carry a little more.

Even though the light rifle is very pleasant to carry, after spending lots of money, time and effort for a great hunt, the extra 2 or 3 pounds doesn't matter if it allows you to make that once in a lifetime shot with confidence. I have both types of rifles, but use the most appropriate ones for the job based on distance and the game hunted.

Again just My opinion

J E CUSTOM

 

[snox801]

Funny how the Howa Mini bottom stuff is plastic and we all want to get rid of it in favor of metal. Even though I'm trying to assemble mine as light as economically reasonable I have the dip bottom metal for it.

The problem with the how's is not that it's plastic it's that they seamed the plastic at the screw locations. So like mine many others have cracked them at around 30inlbs or less. That made me replace mine with something better. My magpul bottom metal is now plastic and works great. No cracking at all

 

[ntsqd]

The problem with the how's is not that it's plastic it's that they seamed the plastic at the screw locations. So like mine many others have cracked them at around 30inlbs or less. That made me replace mine with something better. My magpul bottom metal is now plastic and works great. No cracking at all

That seam may or may not represent a cold bond line. It could simply be the mold's parting line. I have not really looked at mine to see where the gates are. I suspect that they split because they are very thin under the bolt head and are not made from a polymer up to the job.
No doubt that the Magpul part is a superior part. If they offered one for the Howa Mini I'd be all over getting one. Particularly if they improved that shoddy mag catch. Its an intricate part to make, but I'm really tempted to make a flush one for the dip bottom metal.

The LW that I've been building is intended specifically for KA's A zone, the "Hiking steep hills with a Rifle" zone. Shots can get long on occasion, but they don't have to be.

Perhaps what needs to be developed is a LW stock with a bladder (butt & forearm both) in it, and a rapid way to fill the bladder with water from a hydration bag. Carry it light, shoot it heavy. You're already carrying the water so it's a net weight loss if the rifle is light to start with. I estimate this could add 1.0-1.5 lbs to the rifle, which would make a large difference in the way that it shot.

 

[Rich Coyle]

I'm seventy-five, 5'7" at 152 pounds. I can tell you empirically 2 pounds is a LOT and 3 pounds to a 7 pound rifle is prohibitive.

 

[jrock]

5.5lbs is easy with a SA Remington 700. Mine has an MPI stock, 24" #1 barrel, skeletonized bolt and bottom metal, and 5 round Accurate mag. Sub 5.5 lb means shortening barrel, lightening reciever (or Ti), 3 round mag and skimping on a few other points. I ended up with a huge excel sheet full of parts and weights after I got done my build. Lots of options out there. Mine shoots 3/8 MOA easy. Probably could do 1/4 MOA if I really focused. It is a really fun challenge to shoot a ultralight rifle.