Hard to close bolt

[Robby20]

I'm pretty new to reloading. I've searched some but haven't found a fix yet. I have a Ruger M77 243 that I have decided to start reloading. I've some brass that I have shot plus some used brass found. Regardless which brass I try the bolt is hard to close. I made a few rounds using SMK 105 grain. At first I thought it was a case lenght issue. A few cases were over 2.045. But I've trimmed a few, no luck. I even tried an empty case with good dimensions, still hard to close. Any input is appreciated and sorry for the long post.

 

[dok7mm]

Sounds like the brass hasn't been resized to fit your chamber correctly or the bullet is jamming the lands. Do you have the tools to measure your headspace?

 

[Robby20]

No tools to measure head space. I'm using an RCBS press with 243 full lenght sizing die. I thought it might be the bullet hitting the lands too but it does it with an empty case too (no primer or bullet)

 

[dok7mm]

That's good, it shows the brass is the culprit. Keep moving your sizer down, a bit at a time until the bolt will close with normal pressure.

You should have the Hornady gauge to measure the base to datum on the shoulder for accurate resizing to fit your chamber.

 

[ShtrRdy]

A couple questions:

Does the bolt close easily without a case in the chamber?

Can you close the bolt on a factory loaded cartridge?

 

[okie man]

Lots of things could be wrong. Are you using the right shell holder? Same brand as sizing die? Proper shell holder? Are you setting the sizing die up per instructions? Where did your brass come from? Could be brass with overly thick necks. Are you putting a nice bevel on inside and outside of neck? Is it 243 win brass and not 260 /7mm/08 or 308 brass necked down?

 

[Bigfishonafly]

You are not bumping the shoulder back far enough. Follow dok7mm's advice and you will be running like a champion.

 

[Robby20]

Thanks dok7mm, that worked.and I will look into that Hornady gauge.
ShtrRdy, yes it closes easy without a round in the chamber and factory ammo has always worked well.
Okie man yes to all your questions. Half the brass I shot and the other half a bought from a friend or found at the range. They all say 243 on the bottom.

 

[dok7mm]

Glad to help. Your .243 uses the .400" Hornady gauge and you might also get the bullet comparator. Don't forget to to buy the body they fit in. Both will help you build better and more consistent ammo in the future. Proper sizing and seating depth are a very important part of reloading. Good luck in your new hobby.

 

[AZShooter]

I realize you might be trying to save some money by working with the brass you have. Problem with pickups and someone's used brass is how many times was it fired? Using brass with different number of firing could get you mixed results and a case that has been fired multiple. Multiple fired brass will be longer and may have to be trimmed. Older brass sized to fit your shorter chamber could even be dangerous due to possible head separation. If you know how many times all brass has been fired and it is low number that is great. Keep them segregated by times fired.

I have no idea how much you know about handloading......I would suggest when you work up a load to not mix brands of brass. Typically they will have different internal capacities.

 

[Buzzsaw]

make sure your primers are seated fully flush.

bump shoulders back till bolt closes as stated above. it will feel like your having to pull too far down, the press handle will "cam-over" it will seem like its too much but turn die down till the bolt will close easy. Cheap brass (Hornady) may dent at the shoulder, careful not to put too much lube on case

 

[Elkeater]

I realize you might be trying to save some money by working with the brass you have. Problem with pickups and someone's used brass is how many times was it fired? Using brass with different number of firing could get you mixed results and a case that has been fired multiple. Multiple fired brass will be longer and may have to be trimmed. Older brass sized to fit your shorter chamber could even be dangerous due to possible head separation. If you know how many times all brass has been fired and it is low number that is great. Keep them segregated by times fired.

I have no idea how much you know about handloading......I would suggest when you work up a load to not mix brands of brass. Typically they will have different internal capacities.

This is good advice. I wish someone had told me this when I started reloading.

 

[skipglo]

I'm pretty new to reloading. I've searched some but haven't found a fix yet. I have a Ruger M77 243 that I have decided to start reloading. I've some brass that I have shot plus some used brass found. Regardless which brass I try the bolt is hard to close. I made a few rounds using SMK 105 grain. At first I thought it was a case lenght issue. A few cases were over 2.045. But I've trimmed a few, no luck. I even tried an empty case with good dimensions, still hard to close. Any input is appreciated and sorry for the long post.

Your bullet is to far out. Adjust your seating depth down a few thousand...you are into the lands.

 

[tooOld]

make sure your primers are seated fully flush.

bump shoulders back till bolt closes as stated above. it will feel like your having to pull too far down, the press handle will "cam-over" it will seem like its too much but turn die down till the bolt will close easy. Cheap brass (Hornady) may dent at the shoulder, careful not to put too much lube on case

Primers should seat .002-.003" below flush.