I agree. I was referring to only the measurement of the fired brass to determine headspace, not modifying rifle.
Frustrated with Savage Lapua 338......
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I agree. I was referring to only the measurement of the fired brass to determine headspace, not modifying rifle.
SidecarFlip
Well-Known Member
I was thinking that quietly as well. The OP had the rifle modified by a smith (crown and bed) so it may be an issue but it may not. Savage is a pretty flexible company when it comes to customer relations or is IMO.
I believe I would have went the OEM route right off, instead of dealing with an independent. Sort of putting the cart before the horse.
I believe I would have went the OEM route right off, instead of dealing with an independent. Sort of putting the cart before the horse.
WEATHERBY460
Well-Known Member
yea i am rolling the dice on savage working on it...i think they will still polish it....i have no new brass right now to try...but yes i shot all 1st rounds at 90 gr h1000 and it shot super
Broz
Well-Known Member
I use the Redding competition bushing die set. My brass has 14 plus frings on it and never below 90 gr of H-1000 with a 300. Most loads were 92.5 gr. All is still good there. However at one time I was not getting the shoulder back quite enough and in that instance I would get a harder bolt lift (after fire) and sometimes a slightly stuck case. Once I moved the shoulder back another .001" this went away and all hase been good since. Now I do a controlled body size every time and do the necks in a seperate step as well. My velocities from a 27 1/2" tube are 2800 and right in line with your stated velocities.
I only post this to back up your process and to support your load data. The only thing I can think of would be your sizing could be a little on the weak side resulting in a similar issue as I had.
Jeff
SidecarFlip
Well-Known Member
Jeff....
What is your anneal frequency? I'm going to assume that the 14 firings have had at least one or more neck anneal???
Those Redding comp dies are insane expensive BTW.
What is your anneal frequency? I'm going to assume that the 14 firings have had at least one or more neck anneal???
Those Redding comp dies are insane expensive BTW.
barnesuser28
Well-Known Member
I believe he anneals after every firing. I anneal every 2nd firing.
SidecarFlip
Well-Known Member
...........some guys anneal. some never do. I guess it depends on if you have the equipment and/or the knowledge about just what annealing the case neck accomplishes.
I never annealed my small caliber bottleneck's and had no issue but did some (because I have the machine now) and really noticed no difference in grouping or seating or brass life for that matter.
I never annealed my small caliber bottleneck's and had no issue but did some (because I have the machine now) and really noticed no difference in grouping or seating or brass life for that matter.
barnesuser28
Well-Known Member
I don't know if it helps or not but it just gives me a good warm feeling inside.
Varmint
Well-Known Member
First off the 338 lapua was design to fire a 250 gr. bullet at 2900--3000 fps.
Now trying to push a 300 gr. to fast will give you trouble.These savagaes
are only running a 26" barrel,,,,tuff to get high vel with that short of a barrel.
I shoot a 338 RUM with a 30" barrel and only get 2950 fps with a 300 gr bullet
so take it for what its worth.
Now trying to push a 300 gr. to fast will give you trouble.These savagaes
are only running a 26" barrel,,,,tuff to get high vel with that short of a barrel.
I shoot a 338 RUM with a 30" barrel and only get 2950 fps with a 300 gr bullet
so take it for what its worth.
SidecarFlip
Well-Known Member
...and something to do with your Bernz-O-Matic torches too.
I can see annealing large caliber cases where there is a lot of movement in the necks. The 223's, not so much, besides, the cost per case is so little compared to a 338 or 416 or a 50, it's inconsequential.
Have done it. Again, I see no benefit except burining up propane.
I can see annealing large caliber cases where there is a lot of movement in the necks. The 223's, not so much, besides, the cost per case is so little compared to a 338 or 416 or a 50, it's inconsequential.
Have done it. Again, I see no benefit except burining up propane.
Broz
Well-Known Member
LOL, ok. But I disagree. I didn't want to spend the money I did for a good annealer, but I saw the benifit and did it for reasons other than you jest (burning up propane). Knowing you and your capailities as a machinist your last statement surprised me. I know, you know, better.
If you have done much shooting of small caliber you know the little necks are a bit more prone to crack. I have not had one single neck crack on any case including my 6 br and my 17 firball since I started annealing. I proved to myself that in only 4 firings I saw loosing neck tension in the 338 LM. That is not the worst of it. The inconsistancy in neck tension is what bothered me along with the visual leagage of burnt powder residue on the necks and shoulders. Hmmm ever wonder why you get one way out of group at 1000 plus yards? There are plenty of reasons,,,, neck tension and larger ES from leaking necks are just a few.
It is easy to do, keeps my neck tension consistant and also puts a final dry on cases I have just cleaned with stainless media and water. So I have been doing it every firing. I figure why not keep them all blue printed as close as I can? I will admit each firing is over kill. Once every 2 or 3 firings would probably be ok. But I don't have to keep track of when I did it last, or have a box of loads with 1 firing and some with two to shoot. Plus it makes me feel I am doing a better job and I can honestly say my extended long range groups are better since I started.
Jeff
SidecarFlip
Well-Known Member
Jeff....
I know but 223 cases are basically expendable unlike the big (read expensive stuff). Comparing 223 brass to big brass like 338 or even 308, no comparison from an up front cost.
I get a couple reloads and they go in the scrap before issues arise. My 223's are all Lake City OFMB. Get 'em in bulk cut the crimp out (primer pocket), FL resize and trim and good to go.
What I'm doing right now. Got a couple thousand cases to process and load.
I baby the big ones. They put a hurt on your wallet, in brass, powder and projectiles.
Out to the shop. Got to check on the tumbler.....
I like my Bench Source BTW.
I know but 223 cases are basically expendable unlike the big (read expensive stuff). Comparing 223 brass to big brass like 338 or even 308, no comparison from an up front cost.
I get a couple reloads and they go in the scrap before issues arise. My 223's are all Lake City OFMB. Get 'em in bulk cut the crimp out (primer pocket), FL resize and trim and good to go.
What I'm doing right now. Got a couple thousand cases to process and load.
I baby the big ones. They put a hurt on your wallet, in brass, powder and projectiles.
Out to the shop. Got to check on the tumbler.....
I like my Bench Source BTW.
derek gustilo
Active Member
I used to use lapua brass
I used to shoot them out of my sako lapua with 92 grains of H1000, I bought Hornady brass just to try it because I was having issues finding any other kind of brass for it. I could not shoot the same load of powder with the hornady brass but no sticky bolt at all and shoots way more accurate.
I really didnt care about the 100 -200 FPS i lost from dropping powder load.
I use 87.8 grains of H1000 and overall length of 3.681 and quite easily sub MOA groups
This savage shoots twice as good as my sako one did and not even a 1/3 of the rounds I needed to fire to get it dialed in.
Just My 2cents
I used to shoot them out of my sako lapua with 92 grains of H1000, I bought Hornady brass just to try it because I was having issues finding any other kind of brass for it. I could not shoot the same load of powder with the hornady brass but no sticky bolt at all and shoots way more accurate.
I really didnt care about the 100 -200 FPS i lost from dropping powder load.
I use 87.8 grains of H1000 and overall length of 3.681 and quite easily sub MOA groups
This savage shoots twice as good as my sako one did and not even a 1/3 of the rounds I needed to fire to get it dialed in.
Just My 2cents
azsugarbear
Well-Known Member
I posted a similar response on another thread here for someone with the same issue in another caliber. Spend another $5-$10 and take it to a smith and have him look at your barrel with a borescope.
I had a custom 243 with a Brux barrel that shot lights-outl and then suddenly started showing high pressure signs with the same load. Even reduced loads produced high pressure for me. Turns out my barrel had a couple layers of carbon and copper built up inside. Now I have a good cleaning regimen which I use on all my rifles. never had a problem with any until now. Not sure why, but I guess this barrel is just different. At any rate....if the smith says your barrel is fouled then take a little JB paste on a patch and run it back and forth 5-6 times only in the area where the fouling has occurred. Never any more than that. Then finish up your normal cleaning routine using both copper & carbon solutions. Only do this if the barrel is fouled. Hope this helps.
I had a custom 243 with a Brux barrel that shot lights-outl and then suddenly started showing high pressure signs with the same load. Even reduced loads produced high pressure for me. Turns out my barrel had a couple layers of carbon and copper built up inside. Now I have a good cleaning regimen which I use on all my rifles. never had a problem with any until now. Not sure why, but I guess this barrel is just different. At any rate....if the smith says your barrel is fouled then take a little JB paste on a patch and run it back and forth 5-6 times only in the area where the fouling has occurred. Never any more than that. Then finish up your normal cleaning routine using both copper & carbon solutions. Only do this if the barrel is fouled. Hope this helps.
