Firer lapping vs. standard barrel break in?

Discussion in 'Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics' started by drewman, Jan 8, 2007.

  1. drewman

    drewman Active Member

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    Hey all

    Anyone ever break in a new barrel by fire lapping? Was thinking of using the final finish product. I've read good things anyone had much experience with it?

    Thanks
    Drew
     
  2. royinidaho

    royinidaho Writers Guild

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    Do some searches, GoodGrouper and UncleB do the Tubbs thing to every factory rifle they start with (I think) after hearing their results and accepting a little counsel for them I did the FF on a new unfired 338 RUM barrel.

    I followed the FF procedure, then did the break in.

    I'd give the process very high marks.

    I
     

  3. CatShooter

    CatShooter Well-Known Member

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Hey all

    Anyone ever break in a new barrel by fire lapping? Was thinking of using the final finish product. I've read good things anyone had much experience with it?

    Thanks
    Drew

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Don't do it.

    These things are bullets coated in abrasives... Everyone whines about the damage that cleaning rods do, and then have no problem shoving a bunch of Silicone Carbide down the barrel???

    Contact the maker of the barrel and ask them what they think of it.

    The problem with it is that it erodes the throat (which is what we try to AVOID), and futher scores the rifling.

    TO what end??

    There is not even agreement on "breaking in a barrel" and what (if any) advantages there are.

    I am always amazed at how many people will advise someone ELSE to do something harmful to a gun.

    Don't do it. Just shoot your rifle and enjoy it.
     
  4. youarenotcrazy

    youarenotcrazy Well-Known Member

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    Though I don't have the experience, I've got to second Catshooter on this one. Why not "fire lap" the barrel by shooting.... real ammo down it? You could smooth it out in 20 shots with the abrasives, or you could smooth it out after 200 rounds of real shooting... either way you are taking 200 rounds of barrel life away......
     
  5. Mikecr

    Mikecr Well-Known Member

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    Barrel life comes down to heat exposure, not wear. Why do you think it's better to break in with MORE shooting?

    I use FF even on custom barrels for break in, with no movement of the lands. 10rnds stabilizes things, and a followup with a single FF round every 50 or so(just to dress up the lands). There is also the possibility of lapping in a slight taper, which is good for accuracy.

    I've never seen a barrel shoot worse, or lose life due to FF use. Usually barrels shoot better after treatment.
     
  6. BountyHunter

    BountyHunter Writers Guild

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    Well I guess I will way in on this. Some good info and some out in left field.

    Firelapping is not normally done for "break in" in the first place.

    Each mftr of a custom barrel has different guidelines for breakin. Some say do it and some say do not worry.

    Firelapping does not score the rifling, it polishes (ie thru the use of progressive finer grits) it by removing high spots and tool marks. that is like saying we finish the wood on a stock "scoring" it by using progressively finer grit sandpaper. Terrible sounding and totally inaccurate.

    What do you think custom barrel makers use when "lapping' their barrels? Answer is abrasive grits.

    I strongly agree/disgree with the statement not to firelap.

    1. Agree to never ever firelap a CUSTOM barrel.

    2. Disagree with not firelapping factory barrels. On factory barrels if you have bad coppering, I use only 5 bullets (instructions call for 10 of each grit) of the heavier grit to avoid pushing the throat too much and same even on the finer grits.

    The last time I firelapped a factory barrel, my throat moved .010 only and it sure helped accuracy and cleaning. It would take hundreds of rounds down a barrel to remove the factory tool marks which would kill the throat first. So firelapping properly and sparingly done on a factory barrel is worth considering.

    BH
     
  7. keithcatfish

    keithcatfish Active Member

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    I have an Adams and Bennett .308 barrel on a Yugo Mauser. So far it has 100 rounds through it. When it is squeaky clean, it shoots 1 hole 5 shot groups at 100 yards. However, it fouls badly and quickly. After 5 shots the bore looks like a shiny penny. Only an overnight soak with Wipeout will remove the fouling and restore accuracy. Needless to say, I would like to shoot more than 5 shots when I go to the range. What do all you guys think, should I use Final Finish to remedy the fouling situation and, if so, how many rounds should I use as this barrel is neither a "factory" or a high end, lapped at the factory barrel?
     
  8. Boss Hoss

    Boss Hoss Well-Known Member

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    BH speaks the truth here--read his post carefully because it is the Gospel! Get a bore scope and see what you need to polish out first. All of my barrels are from Broughton and Krieger and built by SG&Y so fire lapping would do nothing but introduce premature wear which is a bad thing!
     
  9. srhaggerty

    srhaggerty Well-Known Member

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    I think my question fits here.

    I just bought a Ruger No.1 and it is used. Has less than 50 rounds through it. The guy I bought it from said he did a rendition of a break in, but I am not real sure what he did.

    So my question is should I run it through a small bit of Tubb's Final Finish?
     
  10. royinidaho

    royinidaho Writers Guild

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    I'd shoot the #1 a bit first. Watch for copper build up. Depending on the cartridge you may have other issues to take care of before accuracy of the bore/chamber become the limiting condition.
     
  11. Mikecr

    Mikecr Well-Known Member

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    I'll say that Fire lapping 'polishes' out tooling marks & little thingys from CHAMBERING as well on a custom as factory. And it WILL NOT hurt a custom barrel one bit.
    I know barrel makers say that break in isn't needed on their barrels. Some appease the crowd with a lame breakin procedure(which does nothing). Your custom barrels will shoot well without fire lapping I'm sure.
    Mine shoot fine with it, and I have yet to see ANY loss of leade with my procedure. Absolutely zero movement.

    Just use the finest grit(for custom), 10shots, and I clean between each shot(even though not per procedure).
    TRUE BREAK-IN COMPLETE.
    Later the leade gets ugly again, so followup to prolong accurate life.

    I think it's a MUST for factory barrels. Just do it, don't worry.
     
  12. srhaggerty

    srhaggerty Well-Known Member

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    It is chambered in 300 Win Mag.
     
  13. drewman

    drewman Active Member

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    Well I was thinking about it in a factory barrel. I wanted to lap out the machine marks. I've use it in one other barrel but it did move the throat more than I thought it would.
    But I think your right when you say that you should use the course grit sparingly!
     
  14. goodgrouper

    goodgrouper Well-Known Member

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    [ QUOTE ]
    I am always amazed at how many people will advise someone ELSE to do something harmful to a gun.



    [/ QUOTE ]

    <font color="red">I'm always amazed at how many people will advise against something they've never tried themselves. </font>

    As a firm believer and practicer of FF breakins, I think I have somewhere to stand in this matter and I can say this:

    ALL barrels have burrs and machine marks in them whether custom or factory. All barrels need them removed. Custom's burrs are removed by hand lappers before they are sent out. Factory barrels recieve no such treatment. So they need breakin. FF speeds up the process and smooths them out above what normal shooting can do.

    I have even revived "shot out" custom barrels with FF and had great results. FINAL FINISH WORKS!