electronic bore cleaners

Discussion in 'Long Range Hunting & Shooting' started by goblbustr, Nov 17, 2013.

  1. goblbustr

    goblbustr Well-Known Member

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    gentleman, I am thinking about buying an electronic bore cleaner but before I do I was hoping some of the more experienced folks on here could give me their opinion on them. I do not want to build my own due to no safety features like shutting off when there is a short. what is your experience with these and are there any precautions with them. Thanks
     
  2. HARPERC

    HARPERC Well-Known Member

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    I like mine. My partner has one as well. A few years use and the gun's still shoot well. I from time to time wish I had a bore scope for view of what's actually happening in the bore.

    I especially like using it on some older gun that's been proclaimed "shot out" I've seen it pull some serious fouling from these.

    Only down side I've had is losing some of the smaller bore plugs, but that's pretty usual with me and small parts.
     

  3. royinidaho

    royinidaho Writers Guild

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    Being from Idaho I'm a bit behind the rest of the world. :roll eyes:

    What is an electronic bore cleaner?

    Never heard of such a thing.
     
  4. HARPERC

    HARPERC Well-Known Member

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    Outers Foul Out Roy. I can't post links but Midway carried them. Looked it up and Midway says they are discontinued, evidently they didn't sell well in Idaho:)

    I'll probably botch this explanation, but here goes: The kit consist of bore/chamber plugs, a metal rod, o-rings to keep the rod centered in the bore, an ac adapter, and solutions for lead or copper.

    Plug the bore, fill bore with solution, place rod in bore, attach power to the rod, and wait.

    It pulls the copper fouling to the rod, wipe the rod clean and repeat if needed.
     
  5. royinidaho

    royinidaho Writers Guild

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  6. charles bonner

    charles bonner Well-Known Member

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    I bought one years ago to use on a .25-06 that had lost it's group.Cleaned it one time with the foul out and could not believe how much copper came out.Have kept it clean ever since with good bore solvents and 20 + years later it still shoots sub moa.Worth the money as far as I can see! Charles
     
  7. SidecarFlip

    SidecarFlip Well-Known Member

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    A platers dream. Electrolysis at it's best. Not a bad idea.
     
  8. royinidaho

    royinidaho Writers Guild

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    Sidecar,

    ever heard of going the other way.

    Adding brass coating to a material even brass?
     
  9. SidecarFlip

    SidecarFlip Well-Known Member

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    You could theoretically of you used a brass cleaning rod instead of steel and reversed the polarity, probably why the commercial units use a stainless or mild steel rod.

    I've been anodizing aluminum here for years. Same process, different electrolyte, more juice.

    Whatever you use (if you do it), I'd strongly recommend treating the bore immediately afterward with gun oil because the process will strip any oil and leave the metal exposed to oxidation (rust).

    Cold anodizing is the same process (not really cold as the electrolyte (sulfuric acid/distilled water) gets hot from the reaction. Thats how you determine what level the electrolysis is progressing at, if the electrolyte boils, it's too much amperage.

    I do my anodizing outside of the shop, in a shed because the acid fumes would destroy my machinery right away (and my lungs) so good ventilation is necessary.

    I believe the commercial units employ current sensing electronics to limit the 'cooking' time. Not sure, but, over cooking the bore could cause issues with the parent metal.

    I use a manual heavy duty battery charger for the cold anodize I do and I imagine a small manual charger (less than 2 amps) would work for the bore cleaner too. You don't want a lot of amps because the area of electrolysis is small, the electrolyte solution is not much either. Big amps equal hot solution and that you don't want because it would boil dry and the less solution, the higher concentration of the electrolyte itself, because the carrier (in this case water) boils away, that changes the specific gravity of the electrolyte and could actually cause etching of the parent metal (your bore) and thats no good.

    Look at it like a storage battery in your car. You never add acid (sulfuric), just water, preferably distilled (no suspended minerals). The acid in your battery never leaves, the water does.

    A maintenance free (flooded cell) battery is nothing more than a conventional battery with a mechanical means for condensing the off gassed water vapor and returning it to the cells, hence the funny caps. Those caps are little condensing units and no flooded cell battery is 'sealed' despite what the maker claims. If it was sealed to the atmosphere, it would explode from the pressure of off gassing, a normal condition of the charge-discharge cycle.

    Actually, a car battery operates in a very similar fashion to the bore cleaner. Different electrolyte and different metals but the same principle. Batteries eventually die because the process of charging and discharging thousands of times, produces lead sulfate, which sinks to the bottom of the battery and eventually shorts the plates out.

    Sorry about the thread hi-jack but I imagine that people wonder how a car battery works.

    The bore cleaner principle is the same, just different electrolyte, less juice (amps) and less time in process.
     
  10. HARPERC

    HARPERC Well-Known Member

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  11. uka

    uka Well-Known Member

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    years ago me and my friend got plans from the internet went to radio shack and made an electronic bore cleaner a lot more powerful then the outers and it was pretty cheap to make. it reverse plates the copper from the barrel to the rod and it looks black when you wipe It off. Now with the bore foam which really really works well I never use it. a tip when using bore foam is to clean the powder fouling out with normal cleaner dry it then put the foam and let it sit. I have seen blue paint come out of heavily fouled bores.
     
  12. SidecarFlip

    SidecarFlip Well-Known Member

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    Read my comments above HarperC....

    You don't want big 'power' as in amperage because the amperage causes the heat during electrolysis and becaue the bore holds a minimal amount of electrolyte, boiling it off is a bad thing. You want a slow steady input in milliamps to provide a slow, steady transfer, Nothing more. Big juice, besides boiling the electrolyte and causing it to gas off would probably etch the bore. SAdditionally, if you seal the bore on both ends (instead of just the chamber end, gassing off will cause a 'firecracker' effect as the pressure will 'pop the plug', whichever end is easier to unseat.

    All the commercial units that I see on the net are milliamp output. Thats plenty.... better to err on the side of conservative. You aren't anodizing.

    I have a Hawkeye so I may get one and report back. I have not had any copper issues but then I clean my bores after every shoot, whether it's a couple shots or just one. Contrary to a lot of folks on here, I use Hoppes. Never had an issue and it smells good too.

    I lloked at the Outers and the Love my Gun unit. Alos looked at many home brew variations. One thing in common across the board, all employ milliamp power supplies.

    If I was to make a hone brew unit and use my anodizing power supply, it would be short duration at what it will output at minimum..., 2 amps. I believe I'd have a 'look see' inside after 5 minutes, check the solution temperature and see how the reaction was progressing.
     
  13. MontanaRifleman

    MontanaRifleman Well-Known Member

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    Sounds interesting, but I think I will stick to BTE.
     
  14. SidecarFlip

    SidecarFlip Well-Known Member

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    Mark...

    Just another way to 'skin a cat' so to speak.... I'm all about a cleaning regimen but with a badly fouled rifle, it appears to be a viable alternative.

    I don't let mine get that fouled.

    However, I may look into soem alternative (like a short rod) for my indoor revolvers. I shoot hard cast lead pills in them.