Dillon XL650 kit or RCBS RC SUPREME MASTER KIT

finally arrived dillon 550c :)) thanks for help
i'm sorry that i did not get redding one but it's just too expensive in eu
even vs dillon
thank all that help me :)
 
IMO: Neither one is a good starter press for a beginner.
You need to be more concerned with learning to do each operation right, rather then producing mass quantities of inferior ammo.

Switching from one caliber to another is not something you want to do all the time with a progressive.
It's a simple die change taking all of 30 seconds with a single-stage press.
 
Somewhat sarcastically speaking... it almost doesn't matter what you buy first. Soon you'll have 2 or 3+ of everything and you'll realize that your reloading hobby has become larger than your shooting hobby. It's weird how that happens :)

Edit: I'll add that you'll probably be able to make ammo on a progressive that beats the accuracy of factory ammo because you can tailor it to your gun. (I do some rifle reloads on my Dillon 650). But it won't be quite as good/consistent as ammo made on a single stage. There is just no way to make the concentricity or other variables as consistent when you have a toolhead and shellplate.
 
Last edited:
can u explain ? how i see it tool is up all time on same spot like on 1 die press ,and under is shell holder so why ?
 
I bought a RCBS kit some years ago.
I know people who has Lee and redding.
Dies are interchangeable and for my use I don't need to reload a that much at a time. I prefer small batches often so that I don't forget how to do it.
With the knowledge I have now about reloading and my own habits I would go for the cheapest available press that's from a manufacturer with a good reputation and spend the money I saved on tools for pulling bullets, neck turning and trimming, deburring and a awesome reloading manual + bullets and powders to find my pet load.
Also get a scale that show weight in grains. Even we Europeans are metric most European manufacturers show load data in both gram and grains while much data from across the pond show grains only.
 
well on my powder manual it say for this bullet i want to use i can go from 3grams(46,3) to 3.2 (49.4) for max so 3gr will be load :)
 
well on my powder manual it say for this bullet i want to use i can go from 3grams(46,3) to 3.2 (49.4) for max so 3gr will be load :)
Lapua and Norma both list there loads in both metric and imperial units. I have both the Berger and speers reloading manual and none of them offers metric units. I'm afraid the US is a little ignorant towards us on this side of the pond while we just have to adapt to where the big market is. For this reason I prefer the scale to be in grains instead of grams. It's a pain in the a*** to always run conversions while reloading.
If your sure you will never need an other manual or use data off the internet then reject this advice :)
 
nah it's ok
any reloading advice from experience is good
thanks
btw i will use s&b bullets (fmj bt target,and spce hunt, 180grn) and powder from explosia all cz
and they provide manual in grams so all fine by that :)
 
i got another question
got from friend for free 30-06 hornady dies (he dont use 30-06 any more) name on pack is american series ,then one is fl size die + drcap and second is roll crimp seater die
so i pt on first tool fl sie die then one empty then powder then seater one ?
 
i got another question
got from friend for free 30-06 hornady dies (he dont use 30-06 any more) name on pack is american series ,then one is fl size die + drcap and second is roll crimp seater die
so i pt on first tool fl sie die then one empty then powder then seater one ?

Sounds about correct.
Just remember to add primers.
I have so far never added crimp to any cartridge I load for
 
Warning! This thread is more than 5 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.
Top