Bitten by the rifle building bug!

I am not going to waste money on a carbon barrel, a #4 contour is as light as I will ever need, and will shoot bug holes.
 
Okay guys...dumb question.....I keep hearing about these barrel contours with numbers associated with them (#4, #5, etc). I am only really familiar with the contours with names likesender, light varmint, light Palma, heavy Palma,spotter, etc.. Where do I go to learn what the #s represent? And I like to try to order stocks with the barrel channel already correct. How do I go about that with a company like Boyd's or stockys if it is other than varmint, or spotter? How do you make the correlation?
 
Each barrel mfg has there own contour #designation you will have to check each one. As far as the Boyd's or Stocky barrel channel, most likely you will have to open up the channel if you use other than stock or varmint barrel contour. I just opened a Boyd's sporter to a Shaw magnum, piece of cake.
 
Just this evening finished assembling a savage 111 in an MDT HS3 chassis with a PacNor 260 Rem 26 inch 5 contour fluted 8 twist barrel, JP industries brake, EDG 20 moa rail, RifleBasix SAV1 trigger. My 3rd project following two in 280 AI. It is a disease for which there is no cure, only ongoing treatment...
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Just this evening finished assembling a savage 111 in an MDT HS3 chassis with a PacNor 26 inch 5 contour fluted 8 twist barrel, JP industries brake, EDG 20 moa rail, RifleBasix SAV1 trigger. My 3rd project following two in 280 AI. It is a disease for which there is no cure, only ongoing treatment...View attachment 125548
Just this evening finished assembling a savage 111 in an MDT HS3 chassis with a PacNor 26 inch 5 contour fluted 8 twist barrel, JP industries brake, EDG 20 moa rail, RifleBasix SAV1 trigger. My 3rd project following two in 280 AI. It is a disease for which there is no cure, only ongoing treatment...View attachment 125548
Here's last week's disease results.
Blue got a rechamber to 6.5 Creed and
The flat back LA got his own thumbhole, he is also a Creed. Both with sav-1s, pillars & bedded.
 

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And in my case, the caliber that want is not offered in a factory rifle, so a rebarrel is in order either way. Might as well go the whole way with it.
 
Oh i understand completely! it's just frustrating when you put a bunch of money in a build and it doesn't shoot any better than a production gun. i'll quite being a negative Nellie, i sure hope you get a gun that fits like a 10 yr old pair of jeans!
 
I really can no longer say that I 'have to have' another rifle. It is all about want and feeding the addiction. So, my latest project is a Savage 110 (non-accutrigger). It is currently chambered in 270 Win, with a sporter weight barrel. The barrel and action have really nice gloss bluing on them, which I am thinking should stay the way it is. I am thinking that I am going to build it in 300 PRC or 6.5x284. The idea being to build a medium distance Elk / Occassional long range target rifle out of it. All of my recent purchases have been Varmint Weight barrels to add stiffness, and cut down on recoil. I am ready to order my barrel and wondered if I could get a few opinions on what contour you would like to see on this rifle, if it were yours. I may build it, load for it, make it shoot, take it on a hunt, and then maybe sell it. So, I don't want to install something that is only attractive/functional for me. I also don't want to start a caliber debate, if possible. I've got other rifles in quite a few of the calibers that surround these two, and I am making my decision based on availability of good factory ammo, and pure performance toward the intended use mentioned above. Let's hear it!
 
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