Bedding question

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing' started by gcamp54, Aug 30, 2010.

  1. gcamp54

    gcamp54 Well-Known Member

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    I'm planning to skim coat bed my HS stock. I've found some good info here and other sites but I can't find anything specific on what to do with the action screws. Some don't install the screws and some do. My real question is do I need to put release agent on the screws and how do you keep the bedding compound from seeping onto the screws and getting into the action threads?

    Gordon
     
  2. winmagman

    winmagman Well-Known Member

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    I have done it both ways, with the action screws and with a threaded stud, both work well.

    One of the advantages of using studs is they can be installed in the action and guided down through the holes in the stock before there is any contact with the bedding compound. Then just thread a nut and washer on the bottom and tighten.

    If you opt to use the action screws just wrap them with masking tape until they just barely slide into the holes in the stock (same with stud option), this will prevent most of the bedding compound that might run down the holes. It's a little tougher to get the action screws started with this method, but doable. Just be sure to use a Q-tip and put release agent on the threads inside the action screw holes..

    Put release agent on anything that may come in contact with the bedding compound, including the action screws or studs, even if you tape them.

    Of coarse this is just one way to skin that cat.

    Chris
     
    Last edited: Aug 30, 2010

  3. gcamp54

    gcamp54 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks. What do you use for release agent? Most of the articles I've read use car wax.

    Gordon
     
  4. winmagman

    winmagman Well-Known Member

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    I"ve only used Johnsons Paste Wax, never had a problem with it though.

    Chris
     
  5. coyotezapper

    coyotezapper Well-Known Member

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    Kiwi Neutral Shoe Polish. Goes on super thin.
     
  6. cva54

    cva54 Well-Known Member

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    do you reload? If not go get some spray case lube and spray every down realy good I mean soak it down inside and out and have at it.
     
  7. gcamp54

    gcamp54 Well-Known Member

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    That's interesting. I've not seen that yet in my search for "how to" info on bedding. Yes I do reload but I usually use the non-spray lube.

    I already bought some Johnson's paste wax, otherwise I'd get some Kiwi. I've seen that mentioned a lot. I also got some Devcon in the tubes and some cheap modeling clay. I hope there is no difference between the cheap modeling clay and the expensive stuff for bedding. I'm just waiting on the action studs now. So far what I've found is those who just tape the barreled action onto the stock are pillar bedding. Since I'm skim coating my HS stock I thought I'd follow wingman's suggestion and try the studs.

    Gordon
     
  8. winmagman

    winmagman Well-Known Member

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    Gordon,

    Just go to your local hardware store or auto parts store and buy some manifold studs. They are 1/4x20(coarse thread) on one side and 1/4x28 (fine thread)on the other side. Fine side into the action and wing nut with a fender washer on the coarse side. Works like a charm.

    Chris
     
  9. zupatun

    zupatun Well-Known Member

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    A lot of folks recommend the Devcon for bedding your stock, but I'm not sure if what you can get in the tube will work as well as the Devcon Steel putty or Titanium putty...nice thing about the puttty is you put it on like warm peanut butter consistency and it flows but won't drip...key when trying to fill all the gaps but not drain away...

    Hope it helps. If you've got that covered then have at it!

    Matt
     
  10. cva54

    cva54 Well-Known Member

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    just get some 1/4" fine threaded bolts and cut the head off. cut a slot in them with a hack saw (flat blade screwdriver). I have done this 3 times with the case lube and kitty hair bondo (that is fiberglass straned reinforced body filler) I can see every little thing in it. It is a morror image
     
  11. J E Custom

    J E Custom Well-Known Member

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    I use the slotted head studs and heat shrink to make them fit the bedding screw pillars.

    I also use the wax and after applying the screws I wax the heat shrink.

    This method aligns the action and before the bedding is rock hard I remove the screws
    without disturbing the bedding and the clamps.

    Using the studs keeps the bedding compound from getting in the action where it would
    be very hard to remove.

    The heat shrink will prevent any bedding compound from sticking to the screws and if
    it sticks to the pillars it can be drilled out very easy.

    J E CUSTOM
     
  12. Fitch

    Fitch Well-Known Member

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    I accomplish the same thing as JE Custom's heat shrink tubing approach somewhat differently. JE's approach is easier than what I do, but if one has a lathe, and the time (I'm retired), machining brass studs and threading them is lots of fun. So is making the pillars.

    Since you are bedding an SH Precision stock, you might consider getting a set of these washers. I've used them and they work great.

    http://www.erniethegunsmith.com/catalog/c7_p1.html There are instructions for using them in the package and on the site.

    I machine brass studs to use as tooling for the bedding job. They only have to be made once for each type of rifle so I've accumulated a relatively complete set.

    Since my picture has pillars in it I'll discuss them as well even though you don't need them with the bedding block in your stock. I use an "N" drill diameter hole (.302") in the pillar. I machine the studs with 1/4-28 threads on one end, threads to match the threads in the action on the other end. The center section of the stud is between .2900 and .2950" in diameter so it centers in the pillar hole and insures that the 1/4" action screws won't touch the inside of the pillar anyplace in the finished rifle.

    An example of pillar, stud, and nut - I don't remember which rifle this set was for:

    [​IMG]

    The long threads on the nut end are so I can use a standard 1/4-28 nut as a lock nut when removing the studs prior to cracking the receiver free of the stock after the bedding cures.

    I use the same type of studs when skim bedding HS stocks, and shim washers epoxied in place instead of pillars.

    I use Kiwi Neutral paste wax as release agent. I coat the receiver with it, then polish it after it dries. I put some in the screw holes and all over the studs. I put some in the hole in the pillars using a Q-Tip being very careful not to get any on the end surface of the pillar.

    I use a layer of 10 mil tape around the recoil lug and on the front surface of it. The back surface just gets a coat of polished Kiwi wax.

    Fitch
     
    Last edited: Sep 3, 2010
  13. cva54

    cva54 Well-Known Member

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    speaking of pillers. has any one found somthing that will glue them in on a 700 sps stock?
     
  14. gcamp54

    gcamp54 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks to everyone for your inputs I'm getting more comfortable with this process. The link that Fitch gave on the washers had a good how-to description on specifically bedding the HS stock. Trigger Springs|Aluminum Pillar|Pillar Bedding|Gunsmithing I ordered some of those washers to try.

    I have another question. Some tape all the recoil lug except the rear side and some tape just the bottom of the lug. What is the consensus on this (if there can be one) and how thick should the tape be. I'm planning to use plain masking tape. Thanks.

    Gordon