So which FL sizer die do you recommend. I see you said FL bushing die, so do you recommend the Redding FL bushing die.
in point number 2 on the down side you said you just pich how much to size your necks. Im sorry as i am extremely new to proper precision reloading but how do i choose what bushing to choose how much to neck size?
so if the instructions in a FL die is only for beginners how do i set up a FL die properly. I was doing a little reading and asking a few questions and from what i understand i just want to set it up as per instructions and then back it out a 1/2-full turn. then start to size till you bump shoulder back .002 and lock her down. Is that what you mean or are you setting it up differently!
Redding's FL Bushing die is good. Whidden makes similar bushing dies. I'd recommend either.
Which bushing? Good question. Take a new case. Seat a bullet. Measure the neck with a caliper. Subtract from there. Usually you're going to subtract .003-.004 for a hunting rifle. For a match rifle, .002-.001. The smaller the bushing the more neck tension.
Note, you want more tension on a hunting rifle than a match rifle because the loaded cartridges will be more subject to rough handling/recoil in magazines, etc. Match guns and ammo are usually handled pretty carefully.
Example: If I had a .284 bullet, and my case necks were .015, that'd measure to about .314. I would subtract .003-.004 and get a .310 and .311 bushing.
Then you see which bushing your particular load/rifle likes best. It will tell you.
The right way to set up a FL die, or at least how I do it. Remove the firing pin from your bolt. Put the bolt in your rifle with an empty chamber. Notice how it closes with no effort at all; it should fall closed by gravity on the bolt handle alone. Remember this feel.
Now grab a bunch of your FIRED brass with the primers removed; hopefully you have 20-30 pieces. Put each empty, fired case in the chamber and carefully close the bolt. The resistance to closing the bolt feel will likely vary. Some will still close as easily as above, some will give slight resistance, some will take some effort. Set aside the ones that take the most effort, these are the cases that need to have their shoulders bumped.
If you have the right tools (a good investment: Hornady, Sinclair, among others), you can measure distance from the head to the shoulder on these cases. These set aside cases will be longer than the others in this measurement.
Now, screw your FL die into your press. Screw it down til it hits, then unscrew maybe a full turn, maybe more. Lube up one of your set aside cases and size it. You'll likely not bump anything yet. Clean it up, chamber it again. It should still give resistance to bolt close (because on this first pass you haven't moved the shoulder).
Now, successively, continue to screw the die in by very small amounts and test in this same way until you feel the shoulder on resizing (you will feel it), AND the bolt closing effort disappears. If you have the measurement tools, you can see that shoulder has now moved by measurement. Ideally you want the shoulder to be bumped at least .002, maybe more like .003-.004 for maximum reliability on a hunting gun.
After one case, try the others. You may have to fiddle back and forth a little to get it just right. Don't be surprised if on the 2 & 3 firings of the same brass that you have to adjust it a little (brass gets harder, without annealing, you may have to adjust).
Once you've found the right spot. Lock the ring, don't adjust it any more unless you have to. Make sure you use the same press, case holder, etc.
Hopefully that all made sense.
-nosualc