FL Bushing Die, FL Die, or Body Die/Neck Collet?

[Bang4theBuck]

I wanted to thank everyone on this forum for their insight and experiences, and for those of you who have interacted with me on here… yes, I'm a bit thick in the head…

So, I've come to understand I have several options for resizing my brass, I am just wanting to narrow down which avenue I should consider and what exactly I need to purchase to take that route.

To set the stage, I am reloading for my 300 Win Mag. This rifle is throated for 215 Berger Hybrids, which is what I will be shooting. I will be utilizing Peterson brass.

First, I had my eyes on purchasing a Redding Type S Full Length bushing die. This is still an option, but am now hung up on the fact that, since I will not be neck turning, brass inconsistencies are pushed to the ID portion of the brass, which is something I believe would be beneficial to avoid? I am also understanding that this type of die may potentially require purchasing numerous bushings from lot to lot of brass due to inconsistencies in neck thickness? Additionally with this route, is this the die needed to set neck tension — I shouldn't need a mandrel as the collet did the neck resizing?

The next option.. a normal full length resizing die. My understanding is I would need nothing further (i.e. mandrel) than this die to set proper neck tension and resize the brass, with a con being I am working the brass more than I would be with other methods.

Third option, using a Lee Neck Collet to resize the neck and set neck tension in conjunction with a Redding Full Length Bushing Die (bushing removed), to act as a body die to resize and bump the shoulder back. For this option, is there any reason I would need to own a Full Length Resizing Die, other than being able to do everything in one pull compared to this method?

For anyone who is sick of my questions, I get it… truly . I have learned a lot in the last several days about resizing options, and everyone on this forum is to thank for it.

If there is anything I said that is incorrect, please correct me. I'm still trying to obtain a baseline understanding before I start on this journey.

As always, thank you all.

The combo doe set up would be a lee l
Neck.collet die and a Redding body die. Not a Redding or other brand bushing die without the bushing installed. Big difference in cost too.

 

[marc357]

The only other advice I will give you, is to try to keep perspective on how far down the rabbit hole you try to go with a hunting rig with respect to using sophisticated methods that are usually found in Match Rifle and BR shooting.

This is super advice, and reflects my experience.

I shoot .300 WinMag as well, in a custom gun. I built it in 2001 and I went down the rabbit hole, bought all the stuff, did a lot of things/ extra work that didn't/ don't really make a difference. Most of those things I don't do any more, and those tools sit idle.

I would love to tell you that my 450.00 Redding Precision Ultimate Dies will load better ammo than my 45.00 Lee dies..... but I can't prove it on paper or steel.

I'm talking 3 shots in 1/4" at 100, occasionally 1" at 500, and 3" at 1000. With cheap Lee dies.

Berger 210 VLDs and Hornady 208s would shoot into the same group at 1000 yards for me, switched to the Hornady after shooting up a couple thousand of the Bergers.

What I have learned through loading (and shooting) 6k rounds of .300WM and burning 10 8lb jugs of H1000 and 2 barrels over the last 20 years is that "consistency of your process" is more important than the exact process itself.

One thing I do spend the time on is annealing case necks after every firing. I spin them in the flame of a plumber's torch with a cordless screwdriver, I can do 4 to 5 per minute like this, and I get better neck tension consistency and reduced seating effort. I think it's worth messing with, and I do it with a 20.00 plumber's torch and a bottle of 750° Tempilaq rather than a 1000.00+ machine.

All that said, I would never discourage anyone from buying quality tools/ dies/ presses. Good tools last a lifetime, and our kids & grandkids lifetimes if cared for.

 

[E270wsm]

If it were me, I would get a Forster die set with the FL sizer and micrometer seater and rock on. You can produce quality, straight, accurate ammunition without a lot of fuss.

 

[Mike D Texas]

The simplest most cost effective setup that will provide very consistent ammo is a regular FL sizing die, Lee collet die and a universal mandrel die with the mandrel of your choice.

Second choice would be Redding full length bushing die with the proper bushing and then a mandrel die to set final tension.

Last but would provide the most options would be to buy the Redding Competition bushing die set and separate mandrel die. This will allow you how much of the neck to size, full length body sizing, mandrel to set final neck tension and micrometer adjustable seating die.

 

[cape cove]

I have heard a lot about the body die/Lee collet option.

My understanding is by using a body die and the Lee collet die, you are essentially doing the same thing a full length resizing die would do, but with more control over setting neck tension?

By using different mandrels you have more control over "neck tension" and you work the brass neck much less, only sizing it down what is needed rather than way down and expanding it to fit. In my testing this produces less run-out than pulling an expander ball back through the neck.
@RegionRat has IMO given you great advice in his posts