Neck size/ fl die or neck size die

wagspe208

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Jan 10, 2013
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OK... this is going to be a stupid question... but I am missing something....
So, if one uses a "neck sizer die" (assuming it is used as intended), this die will ONLY size the neck itself... it will NOT "bump the shoulder"?
And, if one wants to "bump the shoulder", then you need to use a FL die and???? (adjust it up slightly?)
So, I reload cases shot in my rifle only... once fired... can I ONLY neck size?, or how do I know I need to "bump the shoulder"?
Thanks
Wags
 
OK... this is going to be a stupid question... but I am missing something....
So, if one uses a "neck sizer die" (assuming it is used as intended), this die will ONLY size the neck itself... it will NOT "bump the shoulder"?
And, if one wants to "bump the shoulder", then you need to use a FL die and???? (adjust it up slightly?)
So, I reload cases shot in my rifle only... once fired... can I ONLY neck size?, or how do I know I need to "bump the shoulder"?
Thanks
Wags
There is no advantage to neck sizing, it neither extends case life or increases accuracy potential.
The easiest method, without going to neck turning and bushing dies, is to use a standard FL die adjusted to just bump the shoulder by .002"
I use Forster FL bushing dies for my comp rifles and my hunting rigs get standard FL dies to give me good function and easy chambering.
If you bump with a FL die, there is no need to buy a Neck die, BUT, for ease of running dented case mouths through, a neck die can be a good thing for this task.
I am using body dies more and more, they are great to just kiss the body enough to give easy chambering without working the brass too much.

Cheers.
gun)
 
I would beg to differ with your opening two statements, no disrespect to you personally but I've found the exact opposite to be true...
 
If you just want to bump the shoulder, you can pick up a redding body die(they're cheap). It may size the lower body a little bit. You can have them customized.
The 'FL' dies that utilize standard neck bushings are really 'body-bushing' dies (not FL dies). These are excellent in that they do not FL size necks (only partial). This allows bumping of shoulders while still partial sizing necks. Can't do this with standard FL dies. You can have these customized as well.

And then there are standard FL dies that purely smash the sheet out of every aspect of cases. I would never use them.
 
(Personally), I like to FL size my brass. Two reasons, I don't shoot competition anymore so no need to have exacting standards and two, I do hunt and I like to know if needed that 2nd or 3rd round is going to slip into the chamber without a problem. Everybody has their reasons so take from here what you think will work best for you.
 
You can have it both ways: Buy a FL sizer die (preferably with bushing hole) and set it to just bump the shouder back a thou or two. If you want to neck size only, put a die shim under the FL die and it will not set back the shoulder. Brownells has shims:

SKIP'S SEATER DIE SHIMS | Brownells
 
wagspe208, what cartridge are we talking about here? It makes a big difference.
My "nicest" (meaning most custom) is an HS Precision .22-250... I would assume/ hope it has a nice chamber.
My other two rifles are just a run of the mill Remington 700 .25-06 and a weatherby 300 wby mag.

SO... the .22-250 would be my main one.
Wags


PS, while browsing redding site for dies, I see they make precision shell holders that vary by .002.... to allow firm seating of the die against the holder, then the brass is >00? farther from die....
 
Forster has a die they call the "bump and neck size die".....
I have redding micrometer bullet seating die and neck die... but maybe I need the ?? die to bump the shoulders??
Wags
 
Forget what marketers call em,, figure out what they are and what you need.
All 3 of the cartridges you're using have high body taper and low shoulder angles, so you will have to size bodies, bump shoulders, and should partial neck size.
This is your standard body-bushing die(often referred to as a FL bushing die).

I really think you should avoid an old school true FL die. The reasons being that they FL size necks, and typically oversize everything else as well. So if you go this way, you'll come back later with issues in seating forces, donuts, high ES, inconsistent bumping, etc.
Just trying to save you some heartache here.
 
Mikecr....... How much of the neck, on a 7mm SAUM hunting rifle, do you recommend to leave unsized?
 
With anything but an underbore needing super high neck tension, I would avoid sizing the donut area ~1/16" up from neck-shoulder junction, no matter what.
I start at 1/8" sizing length from mouths, and adjust more in length during load development(tension adjustment) just in case it helps results.
I also stop before sizing beyond seated bullet bearing length.
And finally, I tweak sizing length slightly either direction to match pre-seating forces prior to bullet seating. This is an extra measure I can see with a load cell equipped Sinclair expander mandrel.
That's my normal sizing length window with a bushing normally 2thou under loaded neck diameter.

The longest bullet I seat is 140VLDs, which are pretty long and seated well away from donut area. My guns are all single shot bolt actions(no magazines). But even with longer bullets, magazine loaded & higher recoil, I would be surprised if more than 1/8"-1/4" of neck sizing length was needed. Any longer bullets will be larger than 26cal, providing more diameter area for neck springback to grip. However, if you anneal necks a lot, all bets are off. In this case, just be sure to load develop in the condition, and maintain whatever you end up with for sizing length.
 
My "nicest" (meaning most custom) is an HS Precision .22-250... I would assume/ hope it has a nice chamber.
My other two rifles are just a run of the mill Remington 700 .25-06 and a weatherby 300 wby mag.

SO... the .22-250 would be my main one.
Wags


PS, while browsing redding site for dies, I see they make precision shell holders that vary by .002.... to allow firm seating of the die against the holder, then the brass is >00? farther from die....
All of your rifles are factory, all will have generous SAAMI spec chambers, none of them will be more accurate with custom dies, bushing dies or all the other BR stuff you're reading about.
Get body dies, get a bushing FL die, if you must, get a comp seater, I use Forster personally in my CUSTOM MATCH RIFLES WITH TURN NECK CHAMBERS.
In all seriousness, perfectly accurate ammo can and is made in normal every day Redding and RCBS dies if SET UP correctly. Of course, you can buy comp seaters separately or whatever, but, just start out with the basics, make good ammo and progress from there.

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