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Zero thermal at range
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<blockquote data-quote="dmr400" data-source="post: 2615302" data-attributes="member: 33691"><p>So the trouble I had with the various heat based methods is that either it cooled off too fast, or it created a thermal bloom that was too large to give a precise aiming point. By using 1/4" wide foil tape and leaning the target back 10 degrees or so to reflect the (cold on thermal) sky, by using two small pieces of the tape I can create a very visible aiming point that is around a half inch square at 100 yards and doesn't bloom. If conditions aren't great, I add another piece of tape, and keep going until I get the absolute smallest aiming point I can see in my scope. That allows me to be very precise in my zeroing, which for my setup is critical as I'm often shooting coyotes out to 300 yards or so. Give it a try, I think you will like it.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="dmr400, post: 2615302, member: 33691"] So the trouble I had with the various heat based methods is that either it cooled off too fast, or it created a thermal bloom that was too large to give a precise aiming point. By using 1/4" wide foil tape and leaning the target back 10 degrees or so to reflect the (cold on thermal) sky, by using two small pieces of the tape I can create a very visible aiming point that is around a half inch square at 100 yards and doesn't bloom. If conditions aren't great, I add another piece of tape, and keep going until I get the absolute smallest aiming point I can see in my scope. That allows me to be very precise in my zeroing, which for my setup is critical as I'm often shooting coyotes out to 300 yards or so. Give it a try, I think you will like it. [/QUOTE]
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