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<blockquote data-quote="CA48" data-source="post: 1413076" data-attributes="member: 21446"><p>A long time ago I was in the same predicament. My .338 load shot around a 1" 3 shot groups at 100-200 but once you got out to 300 it would shoot 1/2" to 3/4" groups consistently and it shot so well at longer ranges I left it alone as that is plenty of accuracy for a hunting rifle out to 200 yards. But for a long time I stuck with a 300 yard zero and after learning the hard way going on hunts where before the hunt they only had 100 yd range to check zero and long range steel comps where there was no where to check a 300 yd zero only 100. Then when I did have to zero at 100 it didn't really hinder me but I was not familiar with my load at closer ranges which reduced my confidence in knowing that my rifle was truly zeroed. It has taught me to always have a 100 yd zero and if your rifle groups an 1" at that range then zero off your cold bore shot. As cold bore is all that really matters in a hunting scenario or in the long range steel matches I shoot occasionaly. Then if you do have the opportunity at a 300yd target you can have a zero there also. And if your able to check both of your zero ranges and they are dead on it gives you extra confidence that your cold bore at longer distances will be spot on if you do your part. Hope that all made sense. My point is just be familiar with your rifle and load at all ranges that might be encountered, even up close. And don't think just because you have a big .338 that will reach way out there that your wasting ammo by shooting it at 100 yards.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="CA48, post: 1413076, member: 21446"] A long time ago I was in the same predicament. My .338 load shot around a 1" 3 shot groups at 100-200 but once you got out to 300 it would shoot 1/2" to 3/4" groups consistently and it shot so well at longer ranges I left it alone as that is plenty of accuracy for a hunting rifle out to 200 yards. But for a long time I stuck with a 300 yard zero and after learning the hard way going on hunts where before the hunt they only had 100 yd range to check zero and long range steel comps where there was no where to check a 300 yd zero only 100. Then when I did have to zero at 100 it didn't really hinder me but I was not familiar with my load at closer ranges which reduced my confidence in knowing that my rifle was truly zeroed. It has taught me to always have a 100 yd zero and if your rifle groups an 1" at that range then zero off your cold bore shot. As cold bore is all that really matters in a hunting scenario or in the long range steel matches I shoot occasionaly. Then if you do have the opportunity at a 300yd target you can have a zero there also. And if your able to check both of your zero ranges and they are dead on it gives you extra confidence that your cold bore at longer distances will be spot on if you do your part. Hope that all made sense. My point is just be familiar with your rifle and load at all ranges that might be encountered, even up close. And don't think just because you have a big .338 that will reach way out there that your wasting ammo by shooting it at 100 yards. [/QUOTE]
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