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The Basics, Starting Out
Zero range
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<blockquote data-quote="OptiCo.us" data-source="post: 1393612" data-attributes="member: 104361"><p>We're talking about different things. I meant sometimes people think that a longer zero range will increase the adjustable range of the optic. If they zero at 100 and run out of adjustment at 800 yds, maybe if they change their zero to 200 or 300yds they'll have more adjustment to reach out to 900 yds and further.....NOT.</p><p></p><p>What you described is the range for each hold-off reticle subtension being influenced by the original zero range. You are correct. </p><p></p><p>I might have misunderstood you but people can calibrate their duplex reticles by measuring the inches to the top of the bottom bar on a grid at 100yds, or just holdover with the top of the bar and measure how high your POI is at 100yds. For 2nd Focal Plane, suggest maximum zoom (corresponding to longer shots.)</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="OptiCo.us, post: 1393612, member: 104361"] We're talking about different things. I meant sometimes people think that a longer zero range will increase the adjustable range of the optic. If they zero at 100 and run out of adjustment at 800 yds, maybe if they change their zero to 200 or 300yds they'll have more adjustment to reach out to 900 yds and further.....NOT. What you described is the range for each hold-off reticle subtension being influenced by the original zero range. You are correct. I might have misunderstood you but people can calibrate their duplex reticles by measuring the inches to the top of the bottom bar on a grid at 100yds, or just holdover with the top of the bar and measure how high your POI is at 100yds. For 2nd Focal Plane, suggest maximum zoom (corresponding to longer shots.) [/QUOTE]
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Zero range
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